Holding tank: take off or desoldering glued PVC pipes
I have always managed to take off glued PVC pipes. Must be good, because I'm stingy and amateur recycle. The technique ? Heat above (about 30 cm) the flame of a gas stove. Constantly turn the room to avoid burning. PVC takes a long time to soften. Introduce the blade of a knife and take off gradually, start heating again so that it remains soft, continue little by little. If, after detachment, the piece is twisted, iron it to heat: softening, it returns to its original shape. It can also be put in a cold fitting to help it resume a correct form.
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After many takeoff tests I gave up ... it's impossible.
Worse: by mounting with "pre-glued" recovery fittings, I noticed much more leaks than with new fittings ....
So my advice: with PVC, make everything new ... reuse is anti-econological (except recovery room never mounted, of course)
Worse: by mounting with "pre-glued" recovery fittings, I noticed much more leaks than with new fittings ....
So my advice: with PVC, make everything new ... reuse is anti-econological (except recovery room never mounted, of course)
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Christophe wrote:After many takeoff tests I gave up ... it's impossible.
Worse: by mounting with "pre-glued" recovery fittings, I noticed much more leaks than with new fittings ....
So my advice: with PVC, make everything new ... reuse is anti-econological (except recovery room never mounted, of course)
I have never had a problem with PVC fittings that have been peeled off. These were obviously drain pipes and not thick PVC designed to withstand pressure.
I do not understand your failures or why the reuse of loose parts would be anti-econological. Could you clarify?
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In principle we cannot take off the PVC pipes because the glue used is in fact a solvent which welds the tubes by fusion edge to edge of the PVC ... Of course, by heating and by forcing we can perhaps achieve this, but the 'we will have parts in a lamentable state (shape, surface condition) which suggests sealing problems during reassembly ... The pros in any case never "take off" ...
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Chatham wrote:.Of course, heating and forcing we can perhaps get there, but we will have parts in a pitiful condition (shape, surface condition) which suggests sealing problems during reassembly ... The pros in any case never "take off" ...
Obviously, the "pros" will not waste their time removing PVC. They prefer to bill customers for new. They do not use male-female connectors either (heat the tube to make a female connector = waste of time) but they glue the tubes in female-female connectors (it goes faster even if it uses glue) .
After take-off, the parts are obviously less beautiful than the new ones, and less flexible, but remain quite usable if one works neatly.
If possible, I give the drain pipes a sufficient slope to pass me glue and allow a subsequent disassembly easy in case of changes. Just like copper tubes, some of my PVC pipes and fittings have already had several assignments.
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Cuicui wrote:
If possible, I give the drain pipes a sufficient slope to pass me glue and allow a subsequent disassembly easy in case of changes. Just like copper tubes, some of my PVC pipes and fittings have already had several assignments.
My PVC glue is strong pro solvent glue (I bought it to install a PVC pressure line in the washing machine cellar).
As said above, it is a chemical fusion, so undecollable.
Maybe lower-priced adhesives allow disassembly ...
For the "sufficient" slope, we cannot do just anything, otherwise we prevent the flushing effect (a phenomenon known to sewers) and the pipes become blocked.
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+ 1 with chatam
Ben because a leaky fitting (style a T) must be cut, re-stick with sleeves and in the end you use 3 times more materials and glue ...
I don't think that there is anything else that works "well" than the "pro" strong solvent glue, does it?
Just for the slope, how much should it be according to the diameter? Kk1 would have charts?
Cuicui wrote:Could you clarify?
Ben because a leaky fitting (style a T) must be cut, re-stick with sleeves and in the end you use 3 times more materials and glue ...
I don't think that there is anything else that works "well" than the "pro" strong solvent glue, does it?
Just for the slope, how much should it be according to the diameter? Kk1 would have charts?
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citro wrote:I bought it to install a pressure PVC feed line in the cellar for washing machine)
I do not advise anyone to take off PVC pressure fittings! I do not even know if it's possible. I never tried.
As I already pointed out, I only take off and reuse the fittings flow (no pressure), always with a sufficient slope and male-female connections allowing, whenever possible, to avoid sticking, including for T-joints or Y-joints.
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Re:
citro wrote:delnoram wrote:I take this opportunity to put
A small link about PVC
Very good your link!
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For more information I invite you to read this article:
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Note from Remundo: message accepted, but on the verge of spam (especially for a very first message).
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