The choice is quite important (at least in the packaging because I guess the products are the same or almost ...) and I would like to have some feedback ... concrete ...
This mainly concerns diesel used in low load conditions (mainly urban cycles) and / or by people who do not respect the mechanics (no respect of the heating time, 10 km approximately at 70 km / h at least, for pull in like conn **. asses ...) ... but also all diesel engines that exceed or feel the 200 000 km (100 000 km at Renault! )
Good to start I found this article of Auto Moto really good, complete and objective enough: https://www.auto-moto.com/actualite/env ... 58102.html
DECREASE YOUR DIESEL
With antipollution standards, the race to power and consumption ever lower, this engine of agricultural origin has become a marvel of engineering, precision mechanics, whose operation is disrupted by the smallest grain of sand. Small repeated trips, traffic jams, poor diesel quality and lack of maintenance promote fouling and therefore malfunctions. Nuisances that can occur very quickly: the injectors start to foul from 20 000 km. A simple deposition of 5 microns on an injector (4 times less thick than a hair) reduces its flow by approximately 25%, with the consequence of altering the shortest injections. On a modern diesel, it can, indeed, be up to 8 successive spraying phases. If the post-injection, intended to regenerate the particulate filter, is bad, it clogs slowly.
By clogging, it creates a back-pressure to the exhaust, causing an excess of exhaust gas recirculation via the EGR valve ... which clogs in turn. This results in progressive clogging of the manifold and the intake valves. In short, the engine lacks air and it causes jolts, power loss, increased consumption and increased pollutant emissions. If the disease gets worse, this "cholesterol" can lead to "infarction". Understand: the breakage of the turbo, or even the engine breakage. And the most serious is that your "doctor", aka the mechanic, sees nothing because his diagnostic bag is unable to detect these functional drifts. It equates, for example, the lack of power to a faulty turbo pressure sensor. Only new thermodynamic analysis tools such as Ecoperformance diagnostics at Norauto, Ecoclean at Speedy or Ecodiag at Autodistribution and Bosch Car Service are able to detect these mechanical problems, which are invisible to the electronic eye of the bag.
PREVENTIVE
The best weapon to fight against the fouling of diesels is prevention. Like the excess human cholesterol, avoid nibbling, understand small repeated trips, especially if your car is equipped with a particulate filter. If the regenerations do not have time to be done, the FAP may clog and the engine breaks. The diesel fuel of the post-injection, intended to burn the particles in the filter, will remain in the cylinder, then run off to mix with oil. And when the diluted oil exceeds the maximum level, there is a risk of engine runaway, often destructive if we do not react promptly by causing stalling. In short, if your car only serves you to drive the children to school, go to the supermarket or go to your workplace in the traffic jams, run away from the diesel!
The other way to preserve your health: get him to play sports. No need to play a rally special; for normal use, a scrubbing once a month (once a week if you are in traffic jams from Monday to Friday) on a highway or motorway is sufficient ... to three conditions: have previously carried out a rise in engine temperature (oil at 90 ° C) for approximately 10 km, drive at a speed greater than 3 000 rpm (EGR valve closed) to allow the engine to breathe only fresh air, and apply sufficient engine load. Clearly: speed up to increase the temperature in the exhaust pipe. A slope of a few kilometers climbs the 3e or 4e report, for example. Last tip: use a good quality fuel and / or specific additives. Petroleum advertising in this area is not so deceptive as that. The additives they add to the Premium gasoil do not absorb the existing fouling, but they avoid its formation. Same for additives sold in small bottles.
THE CURATIVE
When good "driving hygiene" is not enough, it may be necessary to resort to heavier curative treatments. For starters, let's twist a so-called miracle technique: descaling with hydrogen. Injected into the air intake, the hydrogen has no action on the fouling of the injectors, causing almost all the ills. It also has no cleaning properties on the intake manifold. On high-performance machines, producing 30 ppm hydrogen, the rise in the combustion temperature is about 30 ° C: insufficient to cause the effect "pyrolysis" claimed by the manufacturers of this type of device. They allow, certainly, a cleaning of the piston heads, but not a scrubbing of the engine. If, during treatment, the car no longer smokes, the smoke comes back later. In short, you do not treat throat cancer with fumigation. In reality, an active cleaning must begin with the effective stripping of the injectors. In this regard, there is a multitude of products, but the majority acts only preventively due to their low concentration of active compounds. True curative products, such as Spheretech injector cleaner, are used in the workshop. We are starting to find it in the shelves of auto centers, but it is relatively expensive (70 € the can of 1,5 l). Same thing for the EGR valve. The treatments offered in the shelves by major brands of additives are more preventive than curative. Atherosclerosis is not treated with phytosterol yoghurt. Concentrated products can be relatively effective if the fouling is light. Beyond this, the dismantling and mechanical cleaning of the valve (trichlorethylene) must be carried out, or even replaced. Same protocol for a turbocharger with variable geometry, whose blades are blocked because of soot.
Remains the case of the particle filter, probably the most delicate and fragile, because it is at the end of the chain. Its survival depends on the temperature that can be obtained during the regeneration phases. Normally, the carbon particles retained in the substrate burn at 620 ° C, a level almost impossible to reach under normal driving conditions. To achieve this, the treatments use the same additive as PSA in its HDi engines. The eolys makes it possible to lower the combustion temperature of the particles trapped in the 100 ° C filter. Cleaning is therefore easier. Unfortunately, the eolys is manufactured by a single laboratory (Solvay) and is expensive (about 50 € / l). Cheap FAP cleaners therefore contain few and are therefore not very effective. Bosal Power FAP is more concentrated. It can save a DPF if it is not completely dirty. If it is too late, only disassembly, then mechanical cleaning (or replacement) may release the exhaust. Beware of the tempting promises: the products that really work cost around 100 € per treatment and must often be used in the workshop with specific manipulations. Console yourself by saying that a replacement of injectors, EGR valve, turbo or FAP costs much more. Finally, the cleaning of a diesel has beneficial aspects on our portfolio and on the environment. With a properly breathing motor, consumption can drop from 5 to 10% and the pollution drop dramatically. From 2017, preventive maintenance and eco-maintenance will be required to pass the "5 gas" pollution test for future technical inspection.
Obviously they are not convinced by the cleanings with hydrogen (HHO technology ...), it was predictable given the homeopathic quantities injected (cons should clear me the calculation of 30 ppm H2 ...? In g H2 by g O2 / air how much is it?)
So my personal experience: there is 25 000 km I used a Bardhal injector cleaner on my 2 2005 diesel engine (saab optimized fiat basis) from 210 000 km.
Manufacturer card: https://www.bardahl.fr/fr-fr/nos-produi ... eur-diesel
The product smelled of kerosene ... I would say that I did not notice any big differences, I must say that I was already at 5.5-5.6 L / 100km and no or little fumes (I have a FAP with 2 temperature probes, I I had to change one so I know ...) ... Maybe a little less cold engine noise and better stability ... but it did not last very long ...
At Bardhal there is also an 5 product in 1:
Only when we read here or the feedback (including this video) we see very little scientific or mechanical rigor ...
All are rather subjective (less noise, less conso, it does not work, so much noise * ...) so I would like to see the engine parts BEFORE and AFTER cleaning ... Not necessarily need to disassemble, with an endoscopic camera, we should be able to see some essential parts, right? Has anyone ever seen a return of this type?
* scrubbing will not make a miracle, a damaged engine will not repair itself (in this regard, I am surprised that the remétallisants still exist ... but it's not the debate ...)
Manufacturers of these products should do endoscopy under bailiff before / after ... or at least some auto journalists!
Today, 25 km after the 000st injector cleaning, I bought 1 Facom products from EL.rc ... 2 € for the small 8 ml "Injector cleaner", 300 € for the large 20 ml "Cleaner Powerful equivalent of 475 in 5 "(we applaud loudly) ... the big one is therefore much more expensive, normal it is an all in 1.
Surprisingly the Bardhal was doing 1L and darting in 30L, dilution ratio = 3,33%
The Facom makes 300 ml to dilute in 50 to 70L ... (my tank is 58L), dilution ratio = 0,52% (that's 6 times less ... and I do not think the facom is 6 times more concentrated )
Notice injector cleaner (the other impossible to take a picture in 1 times but it's kif kif ... except it also specifies to type well into the engine (3 4000 RPM) while driving at low speed ( of box) ):
Mystery composition:
It's FACOM, it should be quality!
Otherwise, cheaper and maybe also more effective, I strongly advise to make full with 5L of gasoline from time to time, especially in winter: eat-less-auto / car diesel-eat-less-with-a-little-of-sp95-t5849.html I say 5L because you must not exceed 10% ... if you drive in vans, you can put more!