Reviews of wood stoves: Franco Belge, Godin or Supra?

[the middle]

After being enormously informed on the subject, it seems that the most important is, for multiple reasons (pollution, clogging, consumption of wood), to make turn its stove "fully".
This is the absolute condition to have a performance that exceeds the 40%, all sellers looking to pass the stove 80% yield and continuous fire forget to say that the 80% are only reached when the stove is at bottom , the yield falls if not enormously.
The purpose of making it turn is to raise the temperature, to burn the polluting gases. One of the ways to do this is to reduce the size of the fireplace (lower inertia), that's why we now find many stoves with logs of 33cm because the combustion is better.
It is therefore important for this not to overdimension his stove, otherwise we will be tempted to run it in slow motion, with the problems mentioned.
The 2e factor to consider is how to restore heat. Indeed, with a bottom stove, the dephasing of the heat is a very important parameter: by classifying from the least good to the best:
- steel
- melting
- soapstone (vermiculite)
- brick
The further the material is in the list, the better its ability to absorb heat and restore it over time (the price follows unfortunately). Indeed, with a bottom stove, if it immediately restores the heat, it burst hot, and as it is, it is cold, which causes it to try to make it turn slowly to smooth in the time...
It is better to leave in the stove the care of smoothing this temperature over time, with materials adapted to the phase shift. The best example is the mass stove.

I am not very pedagogue (sorry) but I hope to have made you understand that many parameters are important and worth the blow to learn before choosing by taking the "first price because it is the same".

Finally I find this answer the bestbut in terms of wood, there is no better answer because each house is different, and the poel must be adapted to the needs.
I speak in knowledge of cause (mutiples tests, and improvements)
I see that I'm doing everything to multiply the effect of inertia on my pile (so I get closer to the mass pile, from a conventional pile ...)
From my observations, I also found that too much heat is lost in the chimney (it is also on this point that I work, and it is profitable to recover this lost energy)

[the middle]

I forgot to insist on the cogeneration system.
Pushed to the extreme it would be great.
For me, it takes two poels.
One to heat the house (I'm talking about a poorly insulated house, which is often the case); it's the mass poel ...
And a stove to cook, heat the sanitary water, heat a little home, and make electricity via the stirling process. This poel does not exist ...
Cogeneration with wood; we do not think enough about it (the builders)

[Hair (on the nose!)]

Hello

In his October 18 post, Patroche tells us:

"ok thank you for your info on vermiculite but finally I bought a panadero stove whose hearth I reduced with refractory bricks (the advantage is that it has an oven on the top and that you can cook all kinds of things like gratins and pizza ...) and besides it is not expensive .. and it heats up super! "

To return a little to the beginnings of this line, I find this track smart: a stove in sheet 5mm (I have a weakness for the Panadero Gothic green flame label 74% CO 0.25%, price 350 € TTC, we do not know if it is double combustion) whose hearth is completed by firebrick.

Small budget, not bad for me who wants to put it in a very small chalet (30m²) in the mountains (1000m altitude), so occasional use that is not worth the investment of a high-end stove, but with objective a stove which we can control the combustion otherwise it is more a cottage is an oven ...

An alternative choice would be for example a SUPRA type VOSGES or HF 3350 (600 €), all in cast iron, displayed double combustion, and according to the docs, long-lasting fire or not, I have not yet been able to know to date.


In short, I would very much like your opinion on the question:


I would like to know :

(for Patroche) on which stove panadero he left

where concretely we put the bricks: sides, bottom, back or all three.

with which the bricks are fixed

are they particular refractory bricks (casto point P?) and in what dimensions

how long does the "last log" last: can we replace a log without relighting after a night of about 8
hours?

and all other reflexions (and refractions ....) useful on the question


Thank you very much

Hair (on the nose!)

[paleonto]

Hello,

I discovered this conversation by looking for information about wood stoves. I plan to buy a stove first price to supplement the electric heaters which by this cold weather do not manage to properly heat the house and consume so much (bad insulation). But that's hard to know because it is impossible to try a stove before buying it, any comparison is impossible.

I made a pre-selection and I would like to have your opinion. What would be the best way to heat a small house of 84 m² including a main room of 35m² in which will be installed the stove side gable opposite a corridor serving the bathroom, the office and the rooms, everything is very close for a fairly high ceiling height of 3m.

By order of increasing prices:

1: Sologne Invicta (Font) to 286 euros.
http://www.invicta-sa.com/pages/produit ... logne.html

2: The Borne Invicta (Cast) to 441 euros. to 441 euros.
http://www.invicta-sa.com/pages/produit ... borne.html

3: Europa of Supra (Cast iron, Sheet metal + refractory stones) to 449 euros.
http://www.supra.fr/poeles/CadrePoelesbois.asp?lng=fr

4: Chaumont de Invicta (Fonte) On sale at 500 euros.
This stove is bigger than the previous ones.
http://www.invicta-sa.com/pages/produit ... umont.html

Difficult choice when you do not know anything.
Are KW important? Will the Supra with the refractory stones restore the heat better? The Chaumont being bigger will it be more powerful? The Sologne 150 euros less than the others, would it be enough? It only weighs 58kg against 122kg for Chaumont ... Etc ...

Thank you for your help and your advice.

Kind regards.

P.

[Rabbit]

Weight is important because it means that inertia will be more
great .In more comfort when you heat and the
heat is restored when the fire is dying.

The refractory stones are a plus, they can protect
the melting of the fire.At high temperature the cast becomes deformed
if it is not cooled. In addition these high temperatures
improve the performance of the stove. The refracted stone allows
therefore to protect the melting and to increase in temperature.
Unfortunately it is fragile, so make sure it
It is possible to replace them at a reasonable price.
Intensive use must be provided for all 5 years.
Cast iron also has the drawback of being permeable to CO during
that it is heated red, this is also a reason that justifies the use
refractory stone.
It is necessary to avoid the stove equipped with a glazing, this one being maintained
+ - clean by the passage of a blade of air .This air knife drops
the efficiency of the stove.
white with time, if it is not cool enough
It is decorated with blue, yellow and orange colors.
Contrary to what many advise, I prefer
a stove that accepts big logs .C is so much work
in less to prepare them and this allows to fill the stove
only once in the night even when it's very cold like
Tonight (-15.7 ° C with a bit of wind).

[Hair (on the nose!)]

For Paléonto

It is difficult to choose a stove because everything is abstract until we have seen the different models work which is almost impossible. And besides the sellers of the DIY surfaces are not very technical (I was at 3 4 Casto and 3 Leroy Merlin of the Toulouse agglo to see the models and cross reviews).

Here are some more info:


there is a variant to the model SUPRA Europa whose ref is HF 1440 at the price of 350 € ds casto and leroy merlin: it is black of square profile and not trapezoidal, yield a little better, a little less cast iron (feet in sheet metal instead of melting). Nearly all the supra range is available in HFxxxx references, which are designed for large DIY surfaces and are cheaper than their counterparts.

Also by looking on the net reviews on Supra europa that interests me, I came across ads from private individuals who used to sell it and I called them to ask their opinion (telling them straight away that 'being at the other end of France it was not possible to buyet their stove). This can be a good way to get a user's opinion on a given model.

For the KW, it seems that the more a stove runs at low speed and the more its performance is bad: so avoid an oversized stove.
The average ratio is 1 kw per 10 m² and on the doc we give you the range of heated volumes so keep the bottom of the range since your house is poorly insulated. But said one of my teachers "the average is like bikini: it hides the essential ... but it gives ideas". In my case it is a chalet at 1000 m altitude and nobody knows how to tell me how to increase the power to take the altitude into account.

In terms of quality, cast iron is unanimous in relation to sheet metal.

A ref that could also suit you is the SUPRA HF 3350 (aka SUPRA Vosges) act promo in Casto.

Here are some ideas.

[paleonto]

Thank you very much for all this information and these references, I will learn about these other stoves.

see you soon.

paleonto.

[paleonto]

Here is my final:

HF wood stove 3932 (by Supra: Colmar 2) 449 euros.
http://www.supra.fr/poeles/CadrePoelesbois.asp?lng=fr

Characteristics of Colmar 2:
Rated power 7 000 W
Maximum power 14 000 W
Heating volume: 265 m3.
Double combustion
http://www.supra.fr/poeles/PoelesDouble ... &mod=scand
I do not know if the model HF 3932 also offers double combustion ???
Long-lasting fire
Small footprint
All cast iron with double walls
Ash flap
System "clean window"
Rear connection
Logs 40 cm
Warranty: 3 years
Dimensions: H. 607 x l. 520 x P. 430 mm.
Weight: 90.00kg.

VS

Invicta Chaumont at 500 euros.
http://www.invicta-sa.com/pages/produit ... umont.html
http://forums.futura-sciences.com/habit ... ience.html

Power: kW 8
Yield: 76,8%
Length of logs: 60 cm
Nozzle diameter: 153 mm
Dimensions: h: 830 mm lg: 710 mm depth: 450 mm
Departure of fumes: on the back panel
Horizontal connection
Warranty: 5
Dimensions (H x W x D): 830 x 710 x 450 mm
Weight: 122 kg
Facade loading
No information on double combustion ...

Decision Saturday in the store ...

I will give you my first impressions after breaking in.

see you soon.

P.

[Christophe]

Have you looked at this: https://www.econologie.com/forums/comparatif ... t6390.html ?

I admit that I have a weakness for the Invicta, the ratio quality-power-design / price seem unbeatable but I've never tested against ... One day I have to buy a ca will be an invicta. The oxo I really like it I have already seen 700 € promo I think ...

Especially since I just saw that the factory was 50km from us, in the ardennes!

Be careful though, something important: side loading is not a luxury.

We have a 92 SAEY 12 and we use 99% of the time the lateral loading !! Well we heat exclusively to wood too ... which is not your case ...



ps: if you want some good advice, go see an artisan stove maker (that's what they say?) and buy your stove at home! It will make more people live if you buy it at LM or Casto ... or another brico. And off specials you will probably have the same price (otherwise everything is negotiated and it will prefer to align rather than not sell: we bet?)! Attention also: the tax credit is not accessible if the stove is not charged by a pro! Big bricos rarely have editors ...

[Christophe]

Oh too, what is missing in the manufacturer descriptions is the VOLUME of useful loading. And if it is specified: it is rarely put forward ...

For me this is what is most important in a wood heater because that is what determines the autonomy of the beast and therefore the energy returned between 2 loads and therefore its average power .. .the maximum power does not mean much with wood!

Beware of the modern looking stove which, it seems to me, is more expensive and has lower loading capacity.