Modification of solex

Transport and new transport: energy, pollution, engine innovations, concept car, hybrid vehicles, prototypes, pollution control, emission standards, tax. not individual transport modes: transport, organization, carsharing or carpooling. Transport without or with less oil.
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aiming
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Modification of solex




by aiming » 31/03/07, 21:36

Good evening everyone,

Fallen by chance via gugule on this forum, I seek your advice for a project.
My wife rides in solex, that's for sure, it's not top green but it's always better than a car ...
On the other hand, I admit that I always worry about being told that she went under a car given the behavior of motorists : Evil:

So I want to secure his gadget: adding real indicators, position lights and headlight that really lights up.
Since the solex engine produces nothing very famous juice level, I want to stick a small 12V motorcycle battery to be able to tinker with a story beam to power the flashing power plant and the loupiotes.

Only problem, it will be necessary to recharge the creature ... At the beginning I thought of a hub-dynamo of bicycle in 12V, except that it only spits 0,5A, so to recharge, even at 30 km / h, I don't believe it.

A small car alternator, I'm afraid that it will burn the battery clean (I thought of a belt system with return on the rear wheel to rotate it but if it must be too strong, it's not punishment).

Solar, I don't mind, there should still be room for the sensors and I'm afraid of transforming its machine into a hang glider to have enough surface. And the sensors are expensive ...

So if by chance some of you have ideas to arrive at this modification, I am interested! Last point, I am a monumental cellar in electricity (apart from the base of course ...) and electronics are worse ... : Mrgreen:

Thank you in advance for your lights! : Wink:
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delnoram
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by delnoram » 31/03/07, 22:37

The lighthouse that really lights up is to see or to be seen, let me explain:
To see an efficient headlight consumes a lot, to be seen a LED headlight is rather efficient and consumes significantly less.
Obviously you have to do it yourself :| , White LEDs at the front, red, yellow or orange type AllnGaP at the rear (red and orange are too close in color and the yellow is sufficiently "orange for a flashing light).
I made my STOP bike light with and by day it is visible, since the vehicles arriving behind me react as soon as I brake :D .
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Flytox
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by Flytox » 01/04/07, 13:17

Hello

On the solex your lighting coil produces approximately 6 volts AC at full speed (33 km / h). You can try to charge a 6 volt battery but you must first turn the power on. (diode bridge)

Other solution .
The lighting coil is relatively small (in diameter) compared to that of ignition. So you have the place to wind many additional turns over your lighting coil.
The new turns (with the same wire diameter) you wind them in the same direction as the one below and you connect in series. If you double the number of turns you should arrive not far from 12 volts at equal speed. (Aim rather 13 volts if you want to recharge the battery).

It will still be necessary to rectify the current with the diode bridge and feed white LEDs of a much better performance than the original bulbs as say Delnoram.

To be seen, the kids in the neighborhood have found another solution, they put green or blue plastic on the lighthouse. It is something that catches the eye because it is very unusual on the road. Not sure if it's very legal, but it's for a good cause.

Hello.
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zac
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by zac » 01/04/07, 13:44

Hello

the simplest the cheapest and very effective.

a 12volt motorcycle battery, modern scooter diodes: it spits and it consumes nothing. 6 hours of full pot autonomy and you recharge at home.

if you live in the sun you can add a small solar panel to avoid recharging (20cmx30cm is enough).

@+
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aiming
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by aiming » 01/04/07, 14:12

Thank you very much for this info to both of you! Image

I'm going to move towards a 12 / 13V winding, if only to properly control the turn signals. I also find that the 6V lighting is still very fair.
The LEDs is that I would like to put, by cons I hesitate a lot. I tried to put it on my motorcycle without success, I just won a nervous breakdown. However I had the resistance to adapt so as not to drive the powerhouse crazy, it never worked and I am too ignorant of electro to get away with it alone. Unless there are now LED kits for dummies! Image


Ooooooo, I hadn't seen your answer Zac, you were quicker to answer than me.

I considered this solution having seen panels on ebay to charge 12V batteries. I only wonder if it's tough enough amperage level to charge properly since the lighting may draw a lot on ... I need to find out about it. The charger solution should also be considered even if it does not seem to me to be most practical (it will be necessary to add a charge level indicator in addition I imagine).

I dig, I dig!
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gegyx
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by gegyx » 01/04/07, 15:18

A note for Flytox
The photo of your avatar is superb.
Only its grandiose size, makes it widens the left column, and pushes the column of writings on the right.
Which, admit it is not a better.
In your profile, for the avatar, it is advised:
"Display a small image below your details in your posts. Only one image can be displayed at a time; its width cannot exceed 150 pixels, its height 150 pixels, and the file size cannot exceed 24 KB. "

For example, my avatar is 136 x150 pixels.
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zac
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by zac » 01/04/07, 18:39

Aiming wrote:I'm going to move towards a 12 / 13V winding,


Hello

a charged battery is 13.2v; as it takes a DDP of 1.4v to charge; rather see 14 / 15v for your winding (theoretical 14.6).

@+
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Said the zebra, freeman (endangered breed)

This is not because I am con I try not to do smart things.
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Flytox
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by Flytox » 01/04/07, 20:43

Bonjour à tous

zac wrote:
a charged battery is 13.2v; as it takes a DDP of 1.4v to charge; rather see 14 / 15v for your winding (theoretical 14.6).

@+


The problem is that there is no kind of regulation for the voltage and the current delivered by the flywheel. The voltage follows roughly the engine speed when the bulb load is 'constant'.

As soon as the charge varies, when you burn a bulb for example .... the voltage instantly increases by x volts and you burn the other bulb very quickly.

So to predict the number of turns to wind up to load without grilling everything if we take a descent that will accelerate the engine or you burn a bulb ..... it goes through tests.

Or as you recommend, you must aim for 14/15 volts to charge the battery correctly but with a Zener diode type protection?

Gegyx

The image is actually larger than the average. I will see not to exceed the standard. (I simply believed that if the image size did not suit what would be rejected by the software. All this to go quickly instead of counting my pixels .....)

Econologiquement yours.
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Reason is the madness of the strongest. The reason for the less strong it is madness.

[Eugène Ionesco]

http://www.editions-harmattan.fr/index. ... te&no=4132
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aiming
I discovered econologic
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by aiming » 01/04/07, 21:20

Beast question, a charge regulator, wouldn't it be easier to cut it when the battery is knocked?
I saw some in 12V / 24V which are used for battery charges via solar panels.
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crispus
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by crispus » 01/04/07, 21:37

Aiming wrote:I tried to put it on my motorcycle without success, I just won a nervous breakdown. However I had the resistance to adapt so as not to drive the plant crazy, it never worked


The original flashing unit is designed to flash normally with two 2W lamps, i.e. 21W. Below, it considers that a bulb is burnt out and flashes at high speed to signal the fault to the driver.

With your LEDs (2W to break everything) the central considers that the 2 lamps are to be changed ... In fact it is the central that must be replaced!

If you don't want to change the power plant, you have to add a resistor in parallel which "eats" the remaining 40W, but this is an econological disaster: unnecessary loss of energy in a very expensive power resistor ...

To replace the control unit take for example a small astable assembly like 555. There are flasher kits (sometimes all made) at Conrad and others ...
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