Renault Super 5 doped water

Edits and changes to engines, experiences, findings and ideas.
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PITMIX
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Registration: 17/09/05, 10:29
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by PITMIX » 16/04/07, 11:22

I do not know where to start : Shock:
After 80 pages on this post and more than a year and a half of nagging, I finally got there : Cheesy: 8)
Replacing my automatic transmission with a manual gearbox allows me to better feel the effect of the modifications made to my engine.
And here I just tested the GV as you saw on my last little video and I'm formal it works
Engine running after some ten miles traveled I immediately noticed a change from the normal.
The accelerator responds more easily, I feel that my car is very light (ok it is empty : Lol: ) and the engine makes less noise.
Yet I have a small leak on the exhaust because I use the old pot rusty origin. It was perforated at the level of the collar collector side. I repaired it but the solder is over-thick between the seal and the pot.
Of course I absolutely can not prove what I'm saying here.
But what is certain is that I managed to get what I've been looking for since leaving. A change in the behavior of the car thanks to the water.
I will now install a water solenoid valve to easily test with and without water notament in view of a passage on the bench.
Another problem is my welds that are not waterproof, I lose a lot of water.
I connected the GV directly in the air filter tube arrives just above the butterfly of the first body.
I also need to look for the best carburation setting to see if I can ride poorer.
Without water vapor the 105 nozzle on the first body did not really convince me so I handed the 107.
I will retry the shot.
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laurent.delaon
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I understand econologic
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Registration: 13/08/05, 17:49




by laurent.delaon » 16/04/07, 21:43

congratulations!!!
You have finally succeeded and very quickly and more (you have tried a long time c true; o))))
I admire the steam generation! it impresses me already with the stripper but the video on the c really good .Very dynamic. I wish I had that too!

And you're one of the first, I think, on a gasoline engine?

Does this confirm everything I tell in monologue for two years? (well a little less than two years ...)

I'm happy for you.
Encore bravo !!!
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PITMIX
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by PITMIX » 17/04/07, 08:35

For the moment I can not say that it confirms anything.
We know that steam has an effect on carburation and probably a doppying effect.
Can not tell you for now if it will make me realize an economy and impossible to say if the pollution will fall.
One thing is sure the steam production is exactly right.
It is very dry and even being directly injected into the carburettor it does not cause any problem of operation of the engine.
As there is less vapor at the slower than the engine under load (proportion to the heat of the exhaust) the quantity of vapor produced follows the common sense.
And I like it funny.
My system is very poorly done because the welds are not waterproof and the doppant effect is already starting to disappear.
Water flows faster on the ground than it produces steam.
I already realize another external GV on the exhaust pipe of my first reactor.
This time I weld to the bow.
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PITMIX
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by PITMIX » 19/04/07, 21:31

I was really lucky.
In fact the first time the leak of my GV allowed to have exactly the amount of ideal steam.
Later the leak was enlarged and there was not enough steam. Now I have repaired the leaks and there is too much steam.
The carb is covered with condensation.
It may be necessary to adjust the lower water level.
I had a dry steam just what I need now I have a wet steam too important.
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PITMIX
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by PITMIX » 20/04/07, 16:04

Hello
I lowered the level of the float because indeed it was too high.
Image

This is the connection of the steam tube above the carburetor
Image

I also do a little hack to prevent the operation of the second body of my carb.
I also hope to make a small economy in town.
Image
Image
Image
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ioyo
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Registration: 20/03/07, 09:16




by ioyo » 25/04/07, 22:57

that work!

for starters, just to tease you: you would have won 2H by dismounting the fasteners of the pivots (triangle and cushion), you then had enough room to close the gimbals without taking them out completely : Cheesy:

if not,

if you want, you can change your 5e report without dismounting the box.
the 2 sprockets are accessible by dismounting the sheet metal housing by the left wheel arch. the set is not very expensive, but I do not know how much, I made this repair a long time ago.

in my opinion block the double body is a bad idea, because we feel its opening to the pedal, so just limit it, and your carburation will be too poor at full load. (finally for gasoline operation, after, with the steam I do not know what it gives)

I arrive too late but it should have changed the pivot of the clutch fork, which is less than 2 € and makes the clutch very hard when it is worn.

if you have good results, and I would be curious to see a bench!

during this time I changed my carb, and my 5 100% original super consumes 5.6L / 100km (on road) despite its advanced mileage ...
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PITMIX
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by PITMIX » 26/04/07, 00:00

Hello
I think that consumption we will have the same thing since I already got that with the automatic box (5,85L / 100km).
Question modification of the box, I confess that I do not really want to dismantle anything for now.
Thank you all the same advice I keep it in a corner of my brain (piaf : Lol: ) in case...
What do you call the pivot of the fork what is it?
I changed the fork and the white plastic thing right behind, which seems to have the role of a pivot precisely (0,99 Euro).
My clutch works very well but the problem of ratrapping game on the pedal was real.
The high abutment on the crankset pushed too much the system which relaxed the cable on at least 3 teeth.
A little lime on the stop and it was resolved.
I even think that I will put back a small hold or buy a new stop because there is rather the opposite.
The disengagement is too high.
It would be necessary to relax the cable on 1 tooth.

Question steam I wanted to avoid the exhaust with a reactor and I wanted to work first steam alone.
I think it's a good teaching.
I realize that you need steam but no residual moisture.
Rather complex to obtain :frown:
I know it provides a little more at the low-end punch, but I have no certainty about the economic effect.
The only way to achieve the best compromise is probably the use of a reactor. If it is necessary to come I already have an exhaust equipped with a GV and a reactor pending

That's it, I'm having fun like that and I love it :P
Some will say "he is stupid and in addition he asks for more"
Then they will have understood everything : Cheesy:
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ioyo
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Registration: 20/03/07, 09:16




by ioyo » 26/04/07, 08:49

PITMIX wrote:What do you call the pivot of the fork what is it?
I changed the fork and the white plastic thing right behind, which seems to have the role of a pivot precisely (0,99 Euro).
Well seen that was it!

For the box it's very simple to do, if it pulls too short on road / highway does not hesitate!
Box Drain, 3 5e Housing Screws, 2 Nuts for Sprockets, and that's it!
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PITMIX
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Registration: 17/09/05, 10:29
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by PITMIX » 26/04/07, 21:13

Yes, but if I want it to be longer, I have to ask what?
Is it selling smaller sprockets?
You have to ask for sprockets for R11?
My box is a JB1 Express this may be the reason for a shorter 5ème.
It should not either 5ème is too long otherwise it may produce the opposite effect no?

For the blocking of the second body I do not think it causes problems.
I just watched the candles.
Comparison between a candle of my old engine and one of my new engine.

Image

It seems too poor?
I think it's clean but not white and overheated.
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ioyo
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Registration: 20/03/07, 09:16




by ioyo » 26/04/07, 22:33

for your 5e, I put super5 gears to find the original report, well enough (190km / h counter thoroughly!)

for your fuel, I think it removes enrichment full load, and therefore may cause the engine to heat up strongly if you solicit a lot.

at the same time it is quite rare to ride long with your foot on the floor ...
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