Hi Charendome,
Mine does that a bit .... for the meter .... but I don't care!
On the other hand, do you have a Bosch PI like on mine, I noticed that I had a problem with a kind of temperature sensor connecting to the pump with a cable .... this cable has an action on the advance of the pump depending on the engine temperature .... When cold, the cable must be stretched and when hot it must be relaxed ... Mine is always relaxed so I cheated on the pump setting while waiting to replace this part ... Otherwise, are you sure of your battery?
By cons, I do not understand the story of your window down, it goes down by itself? No, what donkey, I just re-read your message, it is either a bad contact or your mechanism which forces the cold which would have blown a fuse ???
For the sorcerer .... there are also cleaning bombs for electrical contacts that you can put in some connectors .... it shouldn't hurt ....
Good luck .... The R19 is just a renault !!!
Let's stay ZEN !!!
Renault R19 D engine with pantone
Hello,
Most alternators are autofeild, that is, there is a small internal diode bridge dedicated only for excitation. it is necessary that the remant of the rotor undergoes a certain revolution so that it is excited, although there is an internal connection on the + to settle this problem, if it is a reconditiné maybe it has not changed this circuit, but that doesn't prevent charging, it must charge
14,4 volts for the American tank and 13,8 volts for certain Japanese
The rev counter and taken on the AC current before the big diode it takes into account the frequency of the alternator and according to the ratio of the pulleys it makes a calculation, If you put another type of alternator or pulley everything is distorted .
I do not understand the builders to have done this way.
A simple magnetic or optical sensor would have done the job, no it prefers to put sensors on the levels of the window washer and electric seats ...
Andre
Most alternators are autofeild, that is, there is a small internal diode bridge dedicated only for excitation. it is necessary that the remant of the rotor undergoes a certain revolution so that it is excited, although there is an internal connection on the + to settle this problem, if it is a reconditiné maybe it has not changed this circuit, but that doesn't prevent charging, it must charge
14,4 volts for the American tank and 13,8 volts for certain Japanese
The rev counter and taken on the AC current before the big diode it takes into account the frequency of the alternator and according to the ratio of the pulleys it makes a calculation, If you put another type of alternator or pulley everything is distorted .
I do not understand the builders to have done this way.
A simple magnetic or optical sensor would have done the job, no it prefers to put sensors on the levels of the window washer and electric seats ...
Andre
0 x
-
charendome
- I learn econologic
- posts: 16
- Registration: 19/12/05, 15:46
- Location: Quincy (expensive)
pb alternator r19
sorry to deviate from the subject energy saving (pantone), but it takes me cabbage !!
thank you for your advice andré, and thank you also exeed.
in fact, when I put a voltmeter on the battery, I connect everything externally (without going through the engine harness) and the faith started, if I do not exist the alternator, I have the battery voltage (around 12 v), if I turn on the alternator, I can feel the engine noise that the alternator is charging, but I only increased the voltage very little (from 11.9, I go to 12, 2 little by little pres) and then, little by little, the tension rises, but it takes well 3 to 5 minutes approximately, (on the condition also of being a little accelerated), then passes the 13, 5/14 v, there the engine accelerates all only (in fact, I have the impression that the alternator pulls it a little on the face before the 13.5 / 14v) and past this value, the alternator must no longer charge a lot, so mons charge.
good i will reassemble another alternator which must be good (without the w socket) and i will see.
thank you both (for the glass, I think it's okay, but in, core faith too much is toopppp)
thank you for your advice andré, and thank you also exeed.
in fact, when I put a voltmeter on the battery, I connect everything externally (without going through the engine harness) and the faith started, if I do not exist the alternator, I have the battery voltage (around 12 v), if I turn on the alternator, I can feel the engine noise that the alternator is charging, but I only increased the voltage very little (from 11.9, I go to 12, 2 little by little pres) and then, little by little, the tension rises, but it takes well 3 to 5 minutes approximately, (on the condition also of being a little accelerated), then passes the 13, 5/14 v, there the engine accelerates all only (in fact, I have the impression that the alternator pulls it a little on the face before the 13.5 / 14v) and past this value, the alternator must no longer charge a lot, so mons charge.
good i will reassemble another alternator which must be good (without the w socket) and i will see.
thank you both (for the glass, I think it's okay, but in, core faith too much is toopppp)
0 x
Slt charendoma,
I also have an R19, it's already my 3rd, the previous 2 are
dead crushed by an alcoholic who did not notice that the
road was turning. I am in my 3rd phase 2, it's already
more comfortable than the previous one. but there are electronic things
who did well with me ###, especially the on-board computer and the
lamda .y probe also has door locks which may go wrong after
10 years. Otherwise the engine like all Renauld engines is
100% reliable as long as you don't ride without water and change
your belts in time (not like my wife who fucks me with an engine).
All that to say that my stepfather was a renault garage owner,
that I have the R19 tech doc
and the advice that goes with it.
without counting his experience (30 years independent) and his tools
.
For your R19 give the year, the engine number and the model.
For your lap counter, you have to see if it is powered by a cable or by
computer .ds the first case, if the needle has jumped for a while
it is necessary to change the cable. Not easy to remove from the box
speed, the oxidation of the aluminum will surely get it stuck.
If it is by computer, check the contacts of the pc files
under the hood.
If you can give details of the problems encountered, I will talk about it
to my dear stepfather.
I also have an R19, it's already my 3rd, the previous 2 are
dead crushed by an alcoholic who did not notice that the
road was turning. I am in my 3rd phase 2, it's already
more comfortable than the previous one. but there are electronic things
who did well with me ###, especially the on-board computer and the
lamda .y probe also has door locks which may go wrong after
10 years. Otherwise the engine like all Renauld engines is
100% reliable as long as you don't ride without water and change
your belts in time (not like my wife who fucks me with an engine).
All that to say that my stepfather was a renault garage owner,
that I have the R19 tech doc
and the advice that goes with it.
without counting his experience (30 years independent) and his tools
.
For your R19 give the year, the engine number and the model.
For your lap counter, you have to see if it is powered by a cable or by
computer .ds the first case, if the needle has jumped for a while
it is necessary to change the cable. Not easy to remove from the box
speed, the oxidation of the aluminum will surely get it stuck.
If it is by computer, check the contacts of the pc files
under the hood.
If you can give details of the problems encountered, I will talk about it
to my dear stepfather.
0 x
Hi everybody
My father has a Peugeot 406 which has the same lap count problem but I think it comes from the connectors behind the meter. Just give a slap on the dashboard and off you go. For the alternator I have a friend who was bored with his 205 GTI for years, she called when he turned on the headlights. The alternator was not delivering enough juice. Another Renault disease on my Super 5 the electric windows are OK but the central locking motors are other things. A bombshell for electrical contact on the door motor on the left, next day the rear gets stuck. Finally it is the joys of the eve cars ...
My father has a Peugeot 406 which has the same lap count problem but I think it comes from the connectors behind the meter. Just give a slap on the dashboard and off you go. For the alternator I have a friend who was bored with his 205 GTI for years, she called when he turned on the headlights. The alternator was not delivering enough juice. Another Renault disease on my Super 5 the electric windows are OK but the central locking motors are other things. A bombshell for electrical contact on the door motor on the left, next day the rear gets stuck. Finally it is the joys of the eve cars ...
0 x
-
charendome
- I learn econologic
- posts: 16
- Registration: 19/12/05, 15:46
- Location: Quincy (expensive)
r19 D alternator !!!
Hello everyone.
I promise, this is the last time I speak of my alternator problem !!!!!!
to finish, I dismantled the new and put one of my old r 25, and the desolation, same problem. in addition, my battery (which has an indicator to indicate the chage, called on the farting green) does not provide enough.
tonight I brought back the alternator and picked up a battery. tomorrow I mount it, I check all the masses and then that's it !!!!
"alea jacta est", if I still have problems, I take it to the landfill (er ..... not anyway, but it will certainly require a good psycanalise followed by a convalecence)
thank you to all those who helped me, and soon I leave on my installation.
for exeed:
my problem is on the rev counter and not the counter (when you talk to me about taking on the bv, I think you are confused) but if your stepfather could have the diagram of a R19 D injection roto with rev counter, I am a taker (it is 01/93, it is a td, type B53405)
merci beaucoup
I promise, this is the last time I speak of my alternator problem !!!!!!
to finish, I dismantled the new and put one of my old r 25, and the desolation, same problem. in addition, my battery (which has an indicator to indicate the chage, called on the farting green) does not provide enough.
tonight I brought back the alternator and picked up a battery. tomorrow I mount it, I check all the masses and then that's it !!!!
"alea jacta est", if I still have problems, I take it to the landfill (er ..... not anyway, but it will certainly require a good psycanalise followed by a convalecence)
thank you to all those who helped me, and soon I leave on my installation.
for exeed:
my problem is on the rev counter and not the counter (when you talk to me about taking on the bv, I think you are confused) but if your stepfather could have the diagram of a R19 D injection roto with rev counter, I am a taker (it is 01/93, it is a td, type B53405)
merci beaucoup
0 x
You're right for the lap counter, as usual I read too quickly.
Like what browsing may not be what is
better.
For your alternator, check if all your fuses are good.
already had the joke that costs me an alternator. in my case
it was a fuse at the bottom left. The 3rd or 4th, if I remember correctly.
About shemas, I cook my stepfather as soon as I see him.
Like what browsing may not be what is
better.
For your alternator, check if all your fuses are good.
already had the joke that costs me an alternator. in my case
it was a fuse at the bottom left. The 3rd or 4th, if I remember correctly.
About shemas, I cook my stepfather as soon as I see him.
0 x
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