Pantone engine Toyota Hilux 2.4L

[lau]

Good evening André

unfortunately I don't have a lap account but my bubbling is proportional to the acceleration.

I see only one explanation for my low water consumption on the highway:
I don't know what the experimenters think about it forum but I see that the more air circulates in the bubbler, the more the water is maintained at a certain temperature (suitable).
In a pass, the engine will never be as high in laps (unless you expressly do so, of course) as on the highway. On the way up, the engine is under load, it heats up everywhere and the liquid which feeds the coil increases in temperature, the bubbling is not excited in this case there as on beautiful roads.
An easy test to perform: Close the bubbler outlet valve or put on a double thickness felt; in the first case the bubbling is zero and the water will soon boil and puke from the entry of the bubbler in quantity; in the second case, the air circulation in the bubbler is very reduced, the water can boil after several km and the water consumption is very high.
in conclusion: the closer you get to the boiling point by a low air flow in the bubbler, the more you risk transporting quantities of air (admittedly small) but very loaded with water!

For Lau (off topic)
I could not wait with the nickel balls, I was too curious. To make quickly I leave the rod and ask 4 balls back of the rod, just 40km to see, I just removed, curious thing only the last ball to change color!
Very meaningful confirmation for me ...
I'm going to finish the test with the rod inconel and redo test with ball in my assembly 125cc with oil .... To make him turn 2 hours it does not bother me, I do not need to watch it, not like driving 2 hours just to get to the end of the highway.

yes the hottest point is on the last ball but the latter would look like the end of a convex and not concave rod!

[Other]

Hello lau

it is a little difficult to imagine water boiling with an exchanger with engine water which normally goes up to 90c or occasionally to 95c, it is practically impossible for the exchange to be done at 100% we normally allocate a 10c lower than the heat source in an exchanger (it would be necessary to call Pitmix he must know that in refrigeration)
Or there is another source of heat, proximity of the bubbler with the exhaust.

One thing is certain when the bubbler water comes to boiling the functioning of the reactor degrades and even it becomes more operational.
When the water becomes very hot in the bubbler, the consumption increases even if there is little air circulating in the bubbler.
In an ascent the engine burns more diesel, but that does not mean that it turns quickly, so it does not pass enough air in the intake and therefore in the bubbler, and it is in this configuration that the we should increase bubbling the passage through the reactor, otherwise the outlet temperature will increase the reactor receives more heat,
I do not have this problem because when my engine forces, more heat the turbo pumps more air and that draws more in the engine, (it is the only advantage of the turbo in a panton assembly,) in more than the injection pump is controlled by the pressure of the tubing.

Probably when the water becomes too hot we exceed the saturation point and we must not forget that it circulates in a small room heated to the exhaust before arriving on the rod, and it becomes vapor, It will be necessary to check the temperature of the bubbler, keeping it around 80c would be desirable.

For the last ball it is all the ball which is yellow, the others remained chrome bearing in contact mounted with a stainless steel spring to keep them side, the heat cannot be transferred by a point of contact ball. I just have to weld them together ..

Andre

[lau]

When the water becomes very hot in the bubbler, consumption increases even if there is little air circulating in the bubbler.

my bubbler is next to the exhaust manifold, if I cut the hoses, the simple proximity of the manifold warms the bubbler water. I am maybe a little too hot because I am flirting the 95 ° c so I could almost close the hoses to cool (for the moment they are closed by 3/4) or then I could remove the deflector that I affixed for that the bubbler can receive the air flow from the powerful fan.

It would be necessary to check the temperature of the bubbler, maintaining it around 80c would be desirable.

I will take care of it by the means mentioned above

For the last ball it is all the ball which is yellow, the others remained chrome bearing in contact mounted with a stainless steel spring to keep them side, the heat cannot be transferred by a point of contact ball. I just have to weld them together ..

this confirms that it is at the end that it is played out, as for the real effect of nickel compared to iron or stainless steel, this still remains to be demonstrated.

[Cuicui]

Hello everyone.
Does the increase in the temperature of the water in the bubbler not indicate that there is insufficient evaporation, for example due to a lack of vacuum, and that the engine consumes too little water? Shouldn't water evaporation lower the temperature in the bubbler?

[Other]

Hello
The more water is evaporated in the bubbler the more it cools, it is necessary to establish a relationship also, with the heat source
(dimension of the water / water or exhaust / water exchanger) and quantity of bubbling air which passes through the bubbler, and also the humidity level of this air before entering the bubbler, if one is standing below from the boiling point, (normally) one should not exceed the saturation point of the air leaving the bubbler. But in practice there are always drops of liquid that are entrained with the air, that's why we put deflectors or a felt ...

Andre

[phil 14]

Hello André
What I don't understand in my setup is that I almost tripled the water consumption with the venturi and that the reactor outlet temperature has not dropped.
In addition the steam outlet from the bubbler seems warmer and my reactor always rises very quickly in t °.
a+
phil 14

[Other]

Hello phil

Lucky you have heat and depression and in addition you are able to pass more water without cooling the reactor.
You just have to control your water consumption and you will get results.
You can have a great depression in the reactor and a low water consumption, it all depends on the control that you make at the exit of the bubbler.

When the outlet temperature on the copper pipe is measured
probably not isolated the more hot steam is passed through this duct, the more heat is indicated, the limit is when more steam is passed than the little treated reactor due to the lack of exhaust heat.
Probably your engine is often loaded,
As for the outlet temperature, it’s not a religion, it’s just a den, it’s playing yoyo it’s walking
you will also see that consumption is variable depending on many factors, load, frequent departure, temperature and humidity outside. but you should not take these measures like a laboratory, you just need to know when it is too much and when it is not enough, if you feel a marked improvement in the torque, lower your water consumption, until you feel a slight improvement, this is where it happens ...

Andre

[lau]

I transferred my iron rod to put a stainless steel rod 1mm apart.
My iron rod did not give a convincing result, it was even worse; when I removed it, there was a fine patch of rust on the entire stem, including the sides.
I feel that I am going to close this section, I have my back full!

[PITMIX]

Hi lau
I don't know if you're still listening.
I find that you had a lot of courage to experience what you did.
It allows you to move forward.
The main thing is that you got a result with your basic setup.
Your experience will not have been 100% messed up.
You know what I mean

[lau]

Hi pitmix!

I see what you mean, thank you