Pantone engine Toyota Hilux 2.4L

Edits and changes to engines, experiences, findings and ideas.
denis
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Doping on Toyota Hilux 2.4L




by denis » 30/05/06, 20:16

Following geo: for nikelage I think I proposed that : Cheesy: :

:, as for the mounting of dominique (I had it on the phone) the low iron is important because it is on ess.
For Ni it should not be confused with stainless steel, because it is ironworker!
The Ni grid was of standard quality of cnrs, very fine, appear the same as André.The solution (wise) that he advised me is to turn the iron and then do it Nikelated by electrolysis, there are a box, which does the surface treatment on the side of Grenoble, I inquire ...

so my kernels are on hold, a friend turns it to me to measure, then makes me nikelé by its box, I would know the price, I go tomorrow to see where it is.
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lau
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by lau » 30/05/06, 22:28

denis you waste your time with nickel, not true André :!:
: Arrow: now if you have money to waste, it's what you want!

To return to the subject of my section, I will give reliable consumption results within 10 days. 8)
I can establish a comparison with 1/2 and 3/4 tube in suction
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The number of molecules in a drop of water is equal to the number of drop that contains the Black Sea!
denis
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Doping on Toyota Hilux 2.4L




by denis » 30/05/06, 23:24

I'm going to be told the price of the treatment, before I give the ok, it's at the price of the kg of coating: on 2 rods of 12, I expect around € 20. If it can improve :D
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Other
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by Other » 31/05/06, 04:56

Hello Denis
the reason for the 0,5mm air gap for a petrol assembly
is that it enters under the pappillon therefore a large depression at idle, especially if it is an engine of less than 2 liters of displacement,
On my 3,8 liter engine with a 1mm air gap it doesn't really bother the idle much it's just the right amount to run it at 650 rpm.
Try with a 0,5 mm air gap on a diesel or enter the carburetor on a gasoline engine and you can not get much through the reactor.
Currently I am testing a 76% nickel and 15% chromium inconel rod, before I had a stainless steel rod of which I do not know the grade,

The difference now, after several trips towed by 2 cubic meters of earth.
The rod has an orange yellow color, compare to that in stainless steel
which was gray brown, the difference is very thin between the two rods and I am not ready to have a nickel rod machined just for the Fun .. By cons I will have a bag of pure nickel ball, this I can 'trying is easy.
For the inconel rod it takes a long time to oxidize or break in the color wipes easily with the fingers, but currently for little difference, unless it takes 2000km for running in, but I doubt it,
Be satisfied, at least you will have a stem that does not rust!


Hello Lau
what did you notice with the iron versus stainless steel rod on the pipe?
The stainless steel rod at least does not rust and in the longer term the oxide layer remains thin on the iron rods the oxide tends to thicken particularly on the nose of the reactor the cold part, probably that in some configuration it is sent some cash.
If you have the rod in hand, rub it with a copper polish over this layer of bluish oxide, you will be surprised to see how smooth it becomes, it shines, it improves the efficiency of the reactor,
do not rub with sandpaper you will have to start running in again.

Andre
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lau
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by lau » 31/05/06, 23:41

Hello Andrew!

this afternoon, 134 km of flat and regular road.
1 Liter of water consumed, i.e. 0,75 L. / 100
No difference in driving sensations but I really have the impression that the engine is a little noisier.
I continue to run in.
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The number of molecules in a drop of water is equal to the number of drop that contains the Black Sea!
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PITMIX
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by PITMIX » 02/06/06, 08:32

Hi Lau, André, Denis
Do you remember my photos of steel and stainless steel rod.
The steel rod had a light layer of oxidation and by cleaning it with steel wool the rod remains brown.
After dismantling my stainless steel rod and about 1000km of operation the rod is also brown but I do not need to clean it.
Driving sensation level I did not feel anything yet I went from water carburetor to bubbler, from stainless steel rod and from 1,5mm air gap to 1mm.
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lau
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by lau » 05/06/06, 23:44

my water consumption varies from simple to double:

on mixed mountain roads I drink about 1 L. of water / 100km
On the highway this aprem over 124 km at 120 km / h I used 2 times less water!
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by Other » 06/06/06, 01:26

Hello Lau
Bizard your business you consume more water while driving city or more slowly? me it is the opposite the faster I drive ie the more the engine eats air, the more it consumes water, the more the turbo blinks the more it syphone in the venturi and as I am with a carburetor it goes from more and more water (even too much at high speed) my water consumption is not in proportion to the power requested, but in proportion to the engine speed,
I checked it rolling on an intermediate report at 80kmh it drinks water with the engine revs, although I would prefer that it be proportional to the diesel consumed and not to the air swallowed, in a descent this is not is not the devil to drink water, seen at the speed that the exhaust cools, (luckily for me the ratings are far from home)

Check your system if the temperature of the bubbler does not vary too much, or leaks somewhere, I do not see an explanation, unless the odds are 10% and very long that you roll on smaller reports, this pulls water and you brake the engine downhill you pump too much water unnecessarily, without burning gas oil as we compare the water consumption to 100km .. (ideally the water flow should follow the reactor temperature or at least the gas pedal)
Although the decrease in the engine brake is an indication that Water is passing through the reactor, especially when you reach the top of the hill, hot reactor, in the first minute of descent.

Andre
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lau
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by lau » 06/06/06, 22:24

good evening André!

yesterday I did a highway drive at 120km / h: 124km and 0,5L. of water (0,4L. / 100) !!
On mixed road I achieved 389km for 29,75L. diesel (that is 7,64L. / 100km); at first sight, I save about 1L./100km of diesel for this type of mileage
my test course is for the end of the week but i don't expect miracles given the clues i currently have in hand.
However my transformation of the bubbler was capital, the adjustment of the pantone is definitely something abstract in my eyes.
When I say mixed roads, it is small mountain roads with false flat or 7% max. lots of turns and lots of raises.
When going downhill I rarely brake, I only brake the engine, and on this point my pick up has lost nothing!
In summary: the more I force my car, by mounting a pass for example, the more I will consume water and the reactor will go up to crazy temperatures.
The more I make a regular dish at high speed, the more my bubbling will be important (logic!) But my water consumption will be ridiculous!
As for my diesel consumption, it follows the effort curve that my car must provide according to the geography of the terrain or the loads to be transported.

a certainty in any case, I save at least 1L. of diesel per cent and this economy is rendered obsolete if I remove the bubbler or the rod for example, so on this point no doubt
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The number of molecules in a drop of water is equal to the number of drop that contains the Black Sea!
Other
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by Other » 07/06/06, 05:32

Hi lau
I'm trying to understand what's going on in your system.
We agree on the results of consumption, I have the same problem as you, whatever I do, I like reaching a ceiling and I can not break it down, the best that I arrive it is 6.5 liters per 100km with pants and most often mixed running this runs in 7,4 liters. Without pants it was 9 liters and paying attention to 8,5 liters, so we have something similar, The question is not to compare, but to increase the performance of the system.

Why does driving on the highway consume less water in your case?
Does the temperature of the bubbler vary at this point?
unlikely you are heating with the water from the engine block, the temperature of the bubbler drops when we consume more water in complete with cold and we evaporate more, it cools the bubbler provided that the exchanger is calculated a little fair ..
The other hypothesis is that the depression in the duct of the panton does not follow that of the intake manifold, it is quite possible that the depression of the engine is not at 4000 rpm double that of 2000 rpm, the engine is filled less well therefore the volume swallowed does not strictly follow the RPMs
the most marked indication is that by its design your engine has a large vacuum without venturi, an indication that the tubing or the air filter is calculated just right, in my case no venturi, I can not draw in a glass of water and at nearly 2000 rpm the turbo participates in a good pumping, it is true that on these old Mercedes it was very generous on the air filter and the intake and exhaust pipes (as I said the dealer they built like tanks to go to war) it is one of the most prized tanks among Arabs reliability and robustest
Another clue is that it gets very hot in a dimension
If this heats it is either that the reactor is oversized (I doubt it) or that it does not pass enough humid air which circulates in the reactor. The main reason is a lack of depression in the conduit that enters the tubing, either an elbow, a bump or something that causes turbulence when the velocity increases in the intake pipe.
I think it would be worth it if you made a venturi even rudimentary which does little restriction (you have enough like that) it would allow you to aspirate in a proportional way in the panton reactor, it would regularize your consumption of water.
The elementary carburetor works in this principle and its regulation is still acceptable for a small range of regime, I do not see why it would not be the same with the panton output.
In the tube which enters the intake manifold pierces a small hole and welds a small copper tube quite long and with a long transparent plastic conduit go syphonate below in a jar of water, at the stop rinses the engine and measures the water column at 2000rpm at 3000 rpm and 4000 rpm just to see if it is proportional, normally it is more than proportional with a good venturi ..
Andre
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