Pantone engine Citroen 2cv 6

[denis]

hello, that's it, the deuch turns; the pipe per which connects reactor / intake did not support the hot (very hot !!) The engine overheats then stalls, difficult restart.Le new cuicre pipe provided very hot gas: the part 15 / 21 o'u it is screwed to blueie! All the system is caulked with rock wool, the bubbler, on the reactor, the water is very hot and the pipe bubbler / reactor is 40 cm with a valve 1 / 4 tower, the setting the flow is not obvious, .The flow trops important may be a dampness that disturbs the restart? ..... I wonder if it should really kept this heat (trops intence?). My reactor must blush: crack some water? One question: why bring hot steam to the reactor, if, as the theory says, the difference of flutes reversed by different t ° creates the plasma arc, to understand you??

Edit by modréation, adding some photos of the montage:

a) arrival of the water in the flat tank, sticking to the escape, the level reaches about half, for a very fast steam, as soon as starting!

b) water supply simplified constant levels, gv + oil vapor recirculation

c) 1 reactor, "gv" type system, return of oil vapors, supply by constant level

[PITMIX]

Hello
Where did you go to ask questions about things you do not know?
Is there plasma already?
The aspiration of the motor by the admission creates a strong depression in the reactor, when you aspire of the ambient air touches the entry of the reactor it must be cold, it is for that one seeks to reheat the air sucked in winter because otherwise impossible to vaporize the water.
For the warmth of your reactor, the heat is good for him but you must also not burn your mill. If you heat a lot by giving more water you should cool the reactor output.
I think too much heat is not good for the engine.
If your engine overheats to the point of stalling ... it's not good. There is a phenomenon of "vapor lock" in the carburetor. It must be allowed to cool so that it redémre.
It is an air cooling on the 2CV that's why it's hot, especially if you isolated the exhaust.
Turning your insulation will be better ...

[denis]

ok, thank you pitmix your response so fast !! tomorrow I remove the insulation around the bubbler, that's why stop it overflows by the input! .It is true q to keep a t ° stable on a 2cv it's not won! but despite -10 tests, it heats enough!, will have to think ... a +

[Other]

Hello Denis
Do not worry your engine is not reddened, an air-cooled engine gives off more heat in the exhaust than the water-cooled engine (the passage in the cylinder head absorbs a good part of it in the liquid)
Now you did not tell us if your bubbling is al, air or exhaust? Do you do one reactor per cylinder? and a common bubbler, If you bubble in the air you must heat your bubbler to the exhaust in principle it is not necessary to isolate the bubbler su it heats the exhaust, even it is preferable to let flow the heat outside it makes a kind of regulation
Currently I test a bubbler and it is not isolated and believe it's cold months here (although today it is -7 is rather soft) and the bubbler heats enough we can get our hands on but not too long ..
You need to avoid giving the engine steam to slow down
it is for this reason that it does not go away, moreover slowed down and at low speed if you put the bubbler in operation you will notice that the engine has misfires as if the candle became wet, it is also for this reason that those who make polution measures with a doping engine slowed down it detec of the imbrulé, (it does not need to have a sophisticated equipment just put his nose back from the exhaust hear the misfires and that means badly burned gasoline.
it's like putting the ERG valve in slow motion!
The output copper duct becomes hot between 100c and 180c in normal operation, but this can go up to 220c not enough steam and motor that forces ..
If you want to improve the patente place a deflector in the bubbler and if you find a very fine stainless steel mesh to the somet of the bubbler not to let through the big drops it is she who crosses the reactor and end up in too large numbers in the engine, in spite of the heat it circulates at high speed in the reactor ...
For the test of consumption, does not measure on spetit paths of 15km that distorts all the principle the cold engine must traverse a 8 has 10km to be opréational,
Traveled in one go and forced the engine into gear the best results I got engine in charge that forces not turn too fast (in my case 1800 has 2000 rpm it's a big engine) you got the advantage of being able to force it.
what comes out of the reactor you send it under the carburetor in the intake manifold? or in the air filter?
It takes all these details to understand,
At first it looks like when the engine forces you do not pull enough water and you draw too much in slow motion, it will explain why it heats so much ...

Andre

[denis]

hello andré, to answer you, there is a rctor located on the left side, because on the right the pipe escapes. supported the alternator, so immediately on the escape elbow. I welded a tube de55 until the fixation of the flange of the double duct.pour the reactor: tube 15 / 21 welded notch angle towards the exit to direct up, here screwed the copper pipe of 14., the rod a stretched bar 14 with rénure turned spiral (one revolution / 2cm) the rod is slightly More 30 cm.The bubbler it is square 15cm / 15 / 15 in tole 10 / 10, a cord has the arc under the bottom, welded on the tube of 55, for fixed the tank and for thermal liason.Le all isolated with wool of rock (too); in the bottom of the bubbler a tube with slot of saw metals + grid, which leaves on the outside or back up a translucent reinforced hose for filling and air intake, above the gas intake by an 15 / 21 with connection per, (him to the reactor), there is a deflector against the hautdans the bubbler (projection), all closed by a plexi cover to monitor everything, but drunk! here...

[Other]

Hello,
this is a long rod 300 mm, the raynure I'm not sure it's an advantage, I had a turbulator at the entrance of the reactor I removed and the results is identical,
Normally a rod of 200mm is the case in the case of a small engine, for the tractor SPAD he puts a rod of 100mm, I think it is a minimu, but the length does not have a big influence.
You forgot to tell us where you left between the reactor exit in the engine if it is in the collector how did you solve your problem of slow motion, if it is in the air filter lacks suction
although the engine is not badly solicited, it must have an acceptable suction at this level.
How do you heat your bubbler?

Andre

[denis]

hello andré, I just saw your message.For the arrival geet at the beginning it was between the filter and the carbu (pipe rubber bent) then with the tests that were inconclusive, because the water was hot trs (thank you for your advice) I was a little afraid for the engine! .Now, the tank is a tin can type 5 kg, put on the pipe escape, which is still isolated, by the rock wool, last try yesterday: a probe t ° ext of a termo.digital told me 45 ° .Il lack a heat can (hard to regulate). And the geet arrives at the entry of the filter with area with the end of the tube copper of 14 which is flared to have a venturi effect, I was afraid of having filings with the stem that can vibrate, or other residu ferér or cuivreu , I also bridled the air inlet because the level had trouble decentering for bubbled (translucent pipe to the air intake bubbler). Level 2 to 3cm above, instead of 7cm that are used by you, but the suction is difficult to check because I do not have a rev counter to see if the air fits well to a given regime.Il also would have a variable filter input clamping following the depression, can to be a valve with a small spring; you have already tried a system excuse if I missed one of your essays. a + denis

[PITMIX]

Hello Denis
If you want to do like me to test before driving with the car. Start the engine so that the reactor heats up.
Disconnect your air filter hose and connect it to the hose of a wet vacuum cleaner. Turn on your vacuum cleaner and touch the tube by hand. You will feel the heat of the steam coming out of the reactor. If when you reconnect it to your filter the temperature does not rise, when you accelerate, it is that it does not aspire.
Personally I tested the steam coming out of the reactor just above the butterfly carburetor. It did not do anything. I think the depression is not strong enough. In addition the steam condenses on the walls of the carb and it makes drops of water. At slowing the engine does not turn around because of that. I turned everything up and put the gas supply back on the collector.

[jean63]

denis
Hello,
I see you are pantonizing your 2CV. I have one of 1964 6 volts under a tarpaulin waiting for his turn. It's a car I had when I was a student .... 35 years ago. I then reused it when I built my house, I went to work with it to save money ... it was a super-car. I have to redraw the floor that is rusty, but I'm sure it will restart.
So I'll follow your tests and when it's good I'll be very happy to give him a little treatment "pantone".
Good luck ..... for now I do not have time to take care of it. We will see in the spring.

[camel1]

jean63


I have to redraw the floor that is rusty, but I'm sure it will restart.

oulalaaaa! Not good ... if rusty floor -> chassis too!

And if chassis too, chassis dead!

And chassis deuche, nowadays, it's hard to find, and it's expensive!

So, if you are passionate about 2CV, and want to get started in its restoration, I wish you good luck, but above all, above all, look at your chassis:

from below, if you see apparent rust spots at the level of the stretchers, at the steering rack.

If you see rust, it's cooked, because these frames are eating from inside, and when the rust arrives on the other side, you see it, but it's too late ...

Big job in perspective ...

Finally, if the pantone interests you, I would advise you to choose another old car (10 / 15 years max), so as not to have a machine completely rinsed to do your experiments ...
Choose preferably a diesel, this is what goes for the moment best with the G system, and do not forget that the development of a complete and operational system will already by itself eat you a lot of your available time, if you coltine you in addition a chore of mechanics ...

In short, I just wanted to say that because I know the deuches well, and that I learned to be wary of one of their major flaws: the chassis breaks at the front end, causing too strong a twist on the colone of direction which, not being articulated ... is broken! and you find yourself without direction

It happened to me twice, it's scary! It is also the second time that I understood the history of rust in the chassis. Here !

Good experiments, inform and think well!

A +++: D