mini Chopper

Edits and changes to engines, experiences, findings and ideas.
Other
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Registration: 17/03/05, 02:35
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by Other » 22/10/05, 16:07

Hello Pitmix

an 8mm nozzle! On my 3,8 liter engine I have a 7mm nozzle,
For my experimental 125cc engine, the good carburetor has a 3,2mm nozzle, which you have to understand, what goes into the reactor is only fuel with little air, a very rich mixture, the air necessary for the smooth running of the engine between after the reactor, (the right ratio) If you make everything go through the reactor a perfect mixture, the reactor will be too cooled the volume of air or the mass of the air is significantly greater than fuel to keep the engine running. all the carburetors that you will find in the trade are too big, even those of reduced model it is necessary that you close them partially, or that you modify them, it can work with a carburetor of brush cutter or other, but you are obliged to close the choke or the butcher completely to make it suck through a hole of 3mm in diameter, this makes the carburetor distorted in excessive pressure and the meaning of the internal venturi of the carburetor is no longer useful.
Normally on my small engine I manage to make it turn with fuel oil without heating the components neither air nor fuel oil, obviously it is necessary that I start it in the absence. do not be relentless on the water with small engines which give off little heat especially since everything passes in the same reactor water and fuel that quickly cools the reactor.
If you want to pass water, run the engine with alcohol then add water in the alcohol, exceeded 30% of water you need to enrich the carburetor, is fuel efficient is thin, for the smell of pollution it improves. It must be said that the alcohol that I use must not be 100% pure it must contain a little water, (I take alcohol, melted, available in the store) or at the hardware store in can 3,8 liters.
Now if you want to use a bubbler instead of drawing the air from your small carburetor in the open air sucks in a water bubbler which you heat with the rest of the exhaust heat at the end of the reactor.
Andre
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PITMIX
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by PITMIX » 22/10/05, 17:01

Okay André again thanks for the info I wanted to design an adjustable air intake.
I could have controlled the air entering the fuel. Finally I plugged it completely and I reduced the carburetor outlet to 2 or 3 mm with a tap joint
I will put photos to make it clearer.
After a test I find that the engine works well, too bad that I can't ride with my little bike because I only need the consumption and pollution tests to find out if I'm getting there.
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by Other » 22/10/05, 18:06

Hello,
No, do not reduce the output of the carburetor just reduce the input, or put in a very small model small aircraft. Your carburetor the problem is that its internal venturi is too big, or so use a wood carburetor (adjustable venturi then the low opening you do not have enough fuel. You need to tamper with the needle)
Andre
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PITMIX
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by PITMIX » 23/10/05, 17:19

Ok Andre, I didn't understand everything, so I understand better. I reread your previous message and now it is clearer good I return there ....

I tried to suck the water which passes in the carburetor with a vacuum cleaner as will do my engine, there is well water which passes.
I would start again with a transparent hose to see how the water comes out of the fuel.
I did a test with the fuel in this state. Always impossible to open the carburetor valve fully.
Note that I can only open the water carburetor valve if the petrol carburetor is in the choke position. If I remove the choke when I open the water carburetor valve the engine stalls.
Last edited by PITMIX the 10 / 12 / 05, 23: 00, 1 edited once.
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PITMIX
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by PITMIX » 25/10/05, 20:43

I read the ideas of "Rantamplan" on the small carburetors on 125CM3 engine of a scooter it seemed to have good ideas. Apparently I do not see a demonstration of its mounting I may be badly sought.
Soon a permanence I will have more time to experiment and find new solutions.
A priori it is necessary to make a lot of tests to arrive at something drinkable :P
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PITMIX
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by PITMIX » 29/10/05, 17:51

Good this time I made tests with a completely waterproof system to bring water to the reactor (fridge regulator). Of course it is a mistake since in this case the piping draws vacuum and the water is sucked in liquid form, therefore exactly the opposite of what I want. I took my water carb and I sucked the water from it with a vacuum cleaner. Through a transparent hose I saw that it still came out of the water from my carburetor but much less than with the waterproof system. Impossible to obtain a fine spray. You should try to vaporize the water before aspirating it by projecting it onto the pot.
So I think the simplest system for sucking water-saturated steam is the bubbler. The fuel on a small engine like mine is only satisfactory with alcohol, for example, as Andre has already confirmed to me. So I think back to the bubbler for water doping. But first I will try alcohol, diesel and others to see.
In any case, doping with olive oil works. Finally it turns what ... the exhaust smells of olive oil and it does not smoke.
Tomorrow I'm getting a full tank of alcohol booster.
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by PITMIX » 30/10/05, 16:41

Well, in fact, the heat got the better of my silver solders so I completely dismantled my reactor. It gives me the opportunity to do it all over again. This time it will be shorter. I also believe that I will reassemble it with two bubblers and by sucking all the product leaving the reactor.
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Former Oceano
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by Former Oceano » 30/10/05, 18:33

Try to see if you can fit it in place of the air box instead of the filter (I told you about it elsewhere;)). This will give your chopper a more rollable appearance to your motorcycle and it will allow you to take a garden tour (if not approved on public roads).

It's stupid, but if you do not ride the spectators on your bike, they will think that it is stew your engine ...
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Zieuter but do not think less ...
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seaweed
I discovered econologic
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Registration: 09/02/05, 13:44
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by seaweed » 30/10/05, 19:02

Response to vtajmb:

Regarding the pantonization of the briggs and stratton, I advise you to make an assembly that does not work too hard because I pantonized an engine like this and I farted 4 cylinder head gaskets including a homemade copper. ..
The real problem is that the ignition advance is not adjustable (in any case, for my engine) and as the optimal pantonized mixture explodes much faster and with much more violence than a traditional mixture, you risk to have some little troubles
Here, if you want recipes for traps to avoid, contact me, there are a few things not to do with this engine ...


Good luck to all.
Pliers
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405 Diesel Break 4,8l of oil for 100 kms ... and nothing more ^^ !!!
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Cuicui
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by Cuicui » 30/10/05, 23:25

Thank you Tang, for sharing with us your experience regarding the pantonization of the Btiggs § Stratton.
I want to pantonize the Briggs § Stratton 5 Ch from my old tiller. I will be content with doping with water so as not to have to move the carburetor and therefore keep the speed control rod operational (automatic throttle if the engine is struggling). I hesitate between injecting Pantone gas either in place of the air filter (it will heat the carburetor) or directly into the intake (better suction, but requiring a valve at the outlet of the bubbler to cut the engine).
What do you think ?
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