Definition of the "venturi" system

Edits and changes to engines, experiences, findings and ideas.
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PITMIX
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by PITMIX » 13/04/07, 23:09

Hello
For the walnut wires in the tin solder I think that the wire must be oiled before drowning it.
Regarding the solenoid valves this is what I used. One to cut the water and one to cut the air.
The washing machine solenoid valves do the trick.
They must be rewound to accept 12VDC instead of 230VAC.
I used 48VAC solenoid valves, it worked very well with 12VDC.
Installation with two solenoid valves and use of a water carburetor
Image
It will all depend on what you install. A bubbler or a water carburetor ??
If it is a bubbler, a single solenoid valve at the inlet of the reactor will suffice to isolate it.
I used this on my car.
I also installed a micro-switch (mini switch) on the accelerator lever to cut the power to the solenoid valve.
So when the accelerator was at rest my solenoid valve isolated the outlet of the bubbler.
No manual adjustment to make since in addition it was controlled by a thermostat. This allowed the solenoid valve to open only once the bubbler at 50 ° C minimum at its outer wall.
The operation in this way was very satisfactory and did not require any adjustment of the carburetion.
Watch this little video it will be clearer (although it lacks light : Cheesy: )

Steam regulation video
With this system I had measured consumption very precisely.
7,12L / 100km solenoid valve in service and 1L / h of water consumed instead of 7,6L / 100km solenoid valve cut, therefore without water doping.
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the joint
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by the joint » 15/04/07, 18:53

Ok Pitmix not stupid at all the blow of the switch on the accelerator lever, I think that it is in this direction there that it is necessary to go, towards "the self-management" of the system. Indeed I intend to use a bubbler. But when your solenoid valve isolates the outlet of the reactor where does the pressure of your bubbler go? I had thought of putting a third tube at the top of the bubbler equipped with a solenoid valve connected to the outlet of the exhaust gases which will allow the release of the cold pressure and hot idling, as on the diagram
Image

By the way your system seemed to work well, but yet your reduction in consumption is not huge, do you know why today?
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the joint
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by the joint » 15/04/07, 18:57

By the way, could someone explain to me how we paste the photos directly on the forum unrelated? I still haven't found it !!!!! : Cheesy:
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crispus
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by crispus » 15/04/07, 20:12

the join wrote:By the way, could someone explain to me how we paste the photos directly on the forum unrelated? I still haven't found it !!!!! : Cheesy:


Hi,

When you post an answer you can consult the sticky note of the BBcode at the bottom left.

More generally, when the formatting of a post interests you (images, size, colors ...), click on "quote" and you will have access to the "source code". A simple and fun way to learn :P
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the joint
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I understand econologic
posts: 63
Registration: 07/03/07, 21:29
Location: Pays de la Loire
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by the joint » 15/04/07, 21:18

Hi Crispus thank you for helping out because I need it : Cheesy: I explored all your links and unfortunately it doesn't work : Cry: : Cry: : Cry: I'm a real PC shit and take 10 times longer to understand than anything else, sorry.
When I frame my URL with the tags it gives that and still no image

Image
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crispus
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by crispus » 15/04/07, 22:19

It is an uncompressed bmp image: size 1713.3 KB : Shock:
I believe that the size of the files is limited (read the post on this subject).

Better to export the images in jpeg: It's faster and it will work better!

I did it for you and it gives this: 60 KB

Image

Your turn now... :D
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PITMIX
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by PITMIX » 16/04/07, 08:40

Hello
To answer your question about the pressure of the bubbler when the solenoid valve is closed the answer is very simple.
It is through the dip tube that the water will come out.
I never had a problem with overpressure in my bubbler because you have to run the car for a long time at a slower speed for the steam to start to grow.
You should stay still with the engine running in a traffic jam, for example. And in case this happens, the water will simply come out through the dip tube.
In any case, the steam produced by the bubbler is not very important since the bubbler is heated by the coolant. It is not a pressure cooker at 120 ° C. The water in your engine is at 90 ° C so the steam from the bubbler reaches 70 to 80 ° C.
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the joint
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by the joint » 16/04/07, 22:00

Ah ok ok, I thought that in a closed circuit the pressure would go up faster than that but on a system bubbled by the exhausts I think it should go up faster.
Regarding the washing machine solenoid valve, did you rewind it yourself? Does it fit on any tube diameter? I intend to use copper of diameter 14.

Thank you Cyprus it's true that it's actually big, oops! : Cheesy:
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PITMIX
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by PITMIX » 17/04/07, 08:48

yes if the tube heats the water with the heat of the exhaust there is more risk of pressure build-up.
Water can quickly reach more than 100 ° C.
There will need a valve.
The 48VAC solenoid valve I used was the reccup of my job.
I have not made any changes to it. The 48VAC winding supports 12VDC.
Ask Michel and Didier (Camel1) they have rewound a small solenoid valve.
On the water solenoid valves I used there is a threaded connection like on a water tap (same diameter) and another male connection with teeth to connect a hose with a serflex collar.
With discounts you can do what you want.
You can also look in the scrap yards, some modern cars use solenoid valves.
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the joint
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by the joint » 17/04/07, 20:56

Ok thank you Pitmix, my faith it seems to me to be easily adaptable. I will inquire for a solenoid valve and depending on the model I will call Didier and Michel for more advice.
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