Water doping plan Beetle

Edits and changes to engines, experiences, findings and ideas.
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Adrien
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Registration: 11/11/04, 22:25
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by Adrien » 26/11/04, 14:06

It's set for the gearbox and the parts I missed.

If all goes well, I will put the engine in my vehicle tomorrow. I think I have the pot next week.

Image

I will do this assembly at first, because it only requires work at the exhaust pipe seen the intake pipe already has an entrance.

See you soon, Adrien
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krissg29
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by krissg29 » 26/11/04, 19:29

Hi Retroloc

Forum Water doping plan for Coxinelle page 2

For my assembly, I mounted a reactor (13x305 tube 14 / 16 steel rod) on the output of cylinder 4 and I connected the geet gas output of the reactor on the original carburetor. That is to say that I have the tube (14-16 copper) coming from the reactor which goes down in the carbu by the air intake up to the level of the nozzle (assembly M.David). At the entrance of the reactor, I put a bubbler filled with half gasoline without water not connected to the exhaust: it sucks air.


the tube goes down to the narrower level of the original carburetor venturi and takes the place of the original spray nozzle (cut and plugged). All that remains is the idle circuit and return pump on the original carburetor.

At idle, in operation carbu, I have no bubble in the bubbler: normal, with the butterfly closed carburetor there is no depression at the nozzle.
By accelerating it starts to bubble and 3000 tr I measured 10 kpa of depression in the bubbler.
To try to highlight the operation of the reactor, I first heated the engine with the carb, bubbler disconnected. Then I plugged the bubbler and I disconnected the fuel supply to the carburetor (engine stopped less than 2 minutes). I restarted the engine and accelerated it to 3000 tr: it turned as long as there was fuel in the carb barrel (2 to 3 minutes) and it stalled.


That's the procedure I used

- connection of the reactor outlet under the original carburetor to have more depression and that it corresponds to the Pantone scheme
- warm up the bubbler: I did my tests in cold weather and the gasoline in the bubbler had to be about 10 ° C
- try to shorten the tube between the reactor and the pipe (currently about 60 cm).


And that's the changes I'm going to make this weekend normally
If it works, I try with a carburetor instead of the bubbler and after it will be enough to make a system to synchronize the controls of carbu

And for Adrien, this is a trial montage! If I do not have enough with a reactor and the gases of a cylinder, I would put it elsewhere or I would make an 2ème, but according to Econologie 1 reactor is enough for 50 cv. Anyway, the exhaust is not very "finished" now as you can see. Fortunately I have no neighbors!
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krissg29
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by krissg29 » 28/11/04, 20:30

That's it: the engine of the cox turns into "Pantone" with a carburetor instead of the bubbler

The original carburetor only serves as a valve.
The reactor outlet is now plugged under the original carburetor and the reactor is supplied by a small motorcycle carbide set very rich.
It works but before changing it, you have to juggle orders. It's not on the road yet!
I did not really test conso but it took me more time to empty the tank of small carbu (4 mn about) in Pantone than that of the original fuel in normal operation (3 mn) while it looks bigger (I have not measured volumes)

I do not know when! Maybe injection with an injector instead of the bubbler?

Christophe
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Adrien
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by Adrien » 29/11/04, 12:03

Image

Image

here are the photos of Christophe's montage (kriss)
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jcf
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by jcf » 29/11/04, 22:24

krissg29 wrote:in fact I am trying to copy the installation pantone on Mexican cox

Hi Krissg, I just wanted to ask you where you found the assembly of the Mexican cox. The only thing I've found on it is an article from Quanthomme, but there is super-little info. Did you find something else?
A+
Jean-Christophe
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krissg29
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by krissg29 » 29/11/04, 23:56

I just wanted to ask you where you found the montage of the Mexican cox. The only thing I've found on it is an article from Quanthomme, but there is super-little info. Did you find something else?


No, I did not find anything else!
I searched with gogol trying lots of keywords but it always came back on Quanthomme.
So I tried to see the details on the picture.
We see a lawn mower (in any case it looks like the carb that I have on my lawnmower) next to the pulley and 2 tubes that go down to the right of the engine (which would correspond to a reactor in the right heater box as said in the text)
If you look at the picture, the carb is higher than original from about 1 to 2 cm. It must correspond to a spacer between the carburetor and the pipe for the connection.
By cons, the orange cylinder in front of the carbu I do not know what it is. I wonder if this is not a valve coupled with the order of the original carb, but that would mean that the reactor is not always in depression.
A+
Christophe
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by Retroloc » 02/12/04, 10:29

Adrian wrote:Image

me what I see in the picture is that a carbu feeds the reactor being fed pure gasoline and all that goes downstream of the original fuel.

Conclusion, even if your reactor is a perlinpinpin, even if it is a hollow tube, it will work anyway. (probably a little worse than original).
In this case, nothing proves that at the exit of the reactor you have "something" different from the output of a normal fuel.
Why not fuel the new carb with HC / hot water?
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by krissg29 » 02/12/04, 23:26

Totally agree with you, there is nothing proven in my tests for now except a total absence of odors, whether of gasoline, badly burned gasoline, oil or other, which is already weird enough considering the settings more than approximate the set.

The next step is to make him swallow the fleet but I do not know yet how (bubbler, 2ème carbu, fogging, injection, ...). And I have to measure the amount of water and gasoline entering the engine. I must also try with fuel oil instead of gasoline.
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Adrien
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by Adrien » 03/12/04, 13:00

you add a reactor with a bubbler or carbu.

A classic water doping what ...
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by krissg29 » 03/12/04, 19:44

Exactly, I do not want to do a doping with water, even if it's easier, I want to do a 100% pantone.
And what's more, I want it to be usable in variable mode (and a Breton, it's stubborn).
So, it will take the time it will take.
I have the advantage of knowing very well the type of engine on which I work (I have already rebuilt several) and I have enough spare parts to be able to test different feed patterns or changes in feed rates. compression for example. There is a cox "around" the engine so I can also test the road and as I do not need the car to go to work, it does not matter if it does not work well enough
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