Following your personal message:
Construction of a bubbler:
Its volume, height, diameter inlets and outlets of the various pipes must be defined before starting ..... space under the hood is a rare commodity
Choice of material: Copper, stainless steel, brass, PVC, or scrap if you want corrosion problems.
Le
volume of water can range from ladle 150 cm3 to 2 liters?.
In fact, the more water there is, the more difficult it is; to heat (not hot enough), to be stored under the hood, and the thermal inertia of the body of water becomes more and more annoying.
Le
air volume above the water is certainly necessary (no testing above). In any case, there must be a sufficient height of air above the water so that the bubbles that may form do not rise up in the piping and go towards the reactor (height 10 cm?).
La
temperature from 57 to 90 °? Too low 57 ° I have doubts about the efficiency, and too high 90 ° according to André the steam that comes out is no longer good.
Si
adjustable air inlet (diameter 2 to 6 mm approximately).
Si
non-adjustable air inlet (If the restriction is made further in the circuit) diameter 10 mm to 15?)
Bubble height dependent on the suction and the engine speed of the presence of a venturi etc ...
Low height, bubbling from low revs.
greater height (10 cm?), more efficient bubbling but at higher speed. (practical when it is adjustable)
Bubble size in the bubbler, the finer the bubbles, the better it works, the greater the quantity of water carried (passage through a thin drilled disc (1 to 1.5 mm) with numerous holes (150 to 200). bubbles is very related to the diameter of the holes.
Air heating entering the bubbler. Does not change much in summer, the winter (not made these tests).
Air filtering:
If the air intake is not too close to the ground (<40cm) it is not compulsory. The bubbling cleans ..... and forms the mud at the bottom of the bubbler. A coarse grid is sufficient.
Heating of the bubbler:
1) - by direct exhaust gases (all slut, black water etc ..., incalculable water consumption).
2) - by the exhaust through a pipe (heating power to be adjusted, low inertia).
3) - by the coolant (excellent temperature regulation and operating stability, a little slower to start than solution n ° 2)
Water level:
- Electric (float), does not like swirls, braking etc ...
- Constant level like automatic purge of central heating (extremely difficult to operate correctly, cannot manage pressure variations)
- Continuous supply by small pump and overflow return (when the water tank is located lower than the rest of the installation, more complicated but very safe)
Different pipes:
- coolant diameter (8 to 16 mm inside?) (avoid high points which can fill with gas make bleeding problems of the cooling circuit)
- The water inlet hose diameter 4 mm inside (without high points + filter)
- Steam outlet in copper or synthetic diameter (8 to 15 inside?) With possibly a splash guard against braking etc ...)
Maintenance / emptying:
Possible cleaning of the mud / crystallizations which will deposit at the bottom of the bubbler.
Positioning of the bubbler:
- ideally below the intake level / height (anti-siphoning security).
- Short piping (anti cooling)
- Accessible for filling / maintenance.
- Not in the passenger compartment (boiling water security).