Mounting pantone 4x4 toyota turbo LJ73 2.4L

[Flytox]

So if not back to my sheep I noticed that when I remove the hose connect before the turbo and the air is not sucking but blowing "I'm on the ***" ...

Are you sure it blows ????? or quite simply the air is very disturbed (the admission of the gases is rather very jerky / discontinuous at low speed). Did the test, approach a lit cigarette from the turbo without the inlet hose, overall the smoke escapes or disappears in the engine?

On reflection, there is something that does not stick, if you take the air for the bubbler in the air filter (after the filter and therefore in depression!?) And you reject the vapor (with a spoon?) ... before the turbo in the same hose and vacuum zone ..... (either next to your bubbling suction?) ... the pressure difference between these pipes is very small, you limit very much what can suck your bubbler.

For filtering the air entering the bubbler, no need to bother .... r
a strainer is enough, and the dust will end up in the mud at the bottom of the bubbler. So you can hear the bubbling and the pressure difference with the steam outlet is much greater and allows a more "normal" gas / steam flow.

[nikko]

yes yes ç breath ç pushes me a leaf, after I have the oil breather which comes just in front of the turbo will have to watch tomorrow what it gives.

Do you know how to calm the turbulence in the air cuff?

I'm going to transfer the filter to see anyway my dip tube is drilling a small hole with a diameter of 6mm.

In fact it would be a mounting like the second plan that you made by taking a turbo pressure hose to supply air to the bubbler.

[Flytox]

Do you know how to calm the turbulence in the air cuff?

We don't care a bit, right? Chai not if it's a problem! In any case, what you see when unplugging is certainly not representative of the connected operation. (acoustics / resonance of the piping / air box / turbo etc ...

In fact it would be a mounting like the second plan that you made by taking a turbo pressure hose to supply air to the bubbler.

As this you send filtered and hot air into the bubbler, it will heat it faster and better by following the engine load.

Go there gradually, you have 1/4 turn valves, take advantage of it not to suddenly open ..... When there was an abnormal operation, you can have a pipe which is filled with floats and swings at once at the first opportunity. Be careful that you do not have a low point that accumulates water .... Better to disassemble for nothing, than breaking a mill / turbo for too much confidence

[dede2002]

Hello,

Someone he tried to mix the two planes take to the air after the bubbler and send the turbo steam before the turbo, dosing flow?

[nikko]

= Flytox
We don't care a bit, right?

Bottom I don't know if I can get it sucked up instead of pumping it up would be nice.

= flytox
Be careful that you don't have a low point that accumulates water ....

The 4x4 being high the reactor is very low, the hose goes down well towards the reactor on the other hand I have several bends.

= dede2002
Someone he tried to mix the two planes take to the air after the bubbler and send the turbo steam before the turbo, dosing flow?

I have not yet tried but I was just wondering it should not cause more problem than that while the buller is overpressure.

[Macro]

If you increase the pressure to 1 bar in the bubbler, the water will boil later.

[nikko]

Yes i hadn't thought about that

I will already put the output of the reactor closer to the turbo to see what it looks like I read a post on this site of a mecedes 300td from Michel who did it like that.

Good day to you

[Flytox]

Hello,

Someone he tried to mix the two planes take to the air after the bubbler and send the turbo steam before the turbo, dosing flow?

Not tested on a turbo engine, but the pressure differential is large (> 1bar). To avoid disaster, for example, you can put a few jets to calm the flows. At minimum bubbler input?

Several have said that it works better when the reactor is at low pressure ... so do not push / inflate too hard on the inlet side of the reactor.

[Flytox]

Hello Macro

If you increase the pressure to 1 bar in the bubbler, the water will boil later.

The pressure delays boiling for sure, but it can be dangerous. In the case where we have the heating power necessary to boil, when the turbo returns to idle the pressure drops roughly to atmospheric pressure ..... and the fleet passes in quantity in vapor at once. That's how we blow up the boilers. Finally we are not there with this assembly ....

According to several testimonies, if you boil the fleet in the bubbler it works much less well or not at all. It is not the "good" vapor coming out. Do you have to stay at 75 to 85 ° C?

[Flytox]

Bottom I don't know if I can get it sucked up instead of pumping it up would be nice.

You have a bugg somewhere. The engine would not work if blowing instead of sucking by the turbo. When the original hoses are connected, the operation is normal and turbo sucks.

= flytox
Be careful that you don't have a low point that accumulates water ....

The 4x4 being high the reactor is very low, the hose goes down well towards the reactor on the other hand I have several bends.

A few elbows pass, but a handle / low point can make big problems, like the possibility of swallowing a swell of fleet and killing the turbo and or the engine .....

I will already put the output of the reactor closer to the turbo to see what it looks like I read a post on this site of a mecedes 300td from Michel who did it like that.

Can you explain what you want to do?