Doping an internal combustion engine with water vapor

Edits and changes to engines, experiences, findings and ideas.
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Flytox
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View Flytox » 07/01/11, 18:47

Gildas wrote:Indeed, the gasoline evaporates first for start-up as Mr Donzeau says, but subsequently the water is broken down into HHO by the reactor "It is rocket fuel" he says, which would explain the saving of more than 50% of gasoline.

Besides, this reaction could not occur if the reactor is not under vacuum, for example: if the exhaust gas valve is too open (?).


There are a whole bunch of theories to "explain" the phenomenon, from the best substantiated to the most wacky. AMHA water is not a fuel, it improves we do not really know what precisely in the cycle which reduces consumption and pollution but does not provide energy, and 50% savings are good for journalists. : Mrgreen:


Do not understand that Christophe had only 5% fuel savings with his generator!

We must not compare a documented scientific investigation work, limited in time and means, with accounts to be rendered (examination) with the patient developed over years by enthusiasts who allow themselves to experiment in all directions without having to explain or be accountable. Scientific rigor "against" empiricism, eventually the second solution will not be able to do much better, when we have studied / understood what is needed.

The assembly of the mower of Mr. Donzeau also uses iron, or this metal is capable of decomposing water to 100 Degree (Bottom of page) which can increase the perfs.

Image


There is another post that talks about this, if I remember correctly, in theory the phenomenon does exist, but the amount of gas produced is ridiculously low compared to the needs of an engine. After, in the real conditions of the reactor or Gillier Pantone, is there a significant increase in gas production efficiency, between temperature, depression, electrification of water droplets etc ... ??? Nothing demonstrated!

I can't wait to make a Pantone to check it all out! : Cheesy:


Come on let's get started! Is the vehicle? : Mrgreen:
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gildas
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View gildas » 08/01/11, 11:15

Come on let's get started! Is the vehicle? : Mrgreen:


Ben ... The choice of assembly is still being finalized! : Cheesy:

For example; I could try on my mower to put the fuel at the reactor inlet without passing steam (therefore without a bubbler). There is always humidity in the air and passing this through the reactor with the all of the air - gasoline mixture would be enough to trigger a micro storm (because of the heat)

Even if there is no humidity, the combustion will still be better.

So simplified assembly and the passage available in the reactor would be sufficient to process all the intake gases for a mower.

(With disassembly of the rod from time to time for cleaning).
Last edited by gildas the 08 / 01 / 11, 13: 32, 1 edited once.
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View Flytox » 08/01/11, 11:58

In this case, the pressure drop is greater throughout the intake. You will have a loss of power. AMHA, if you have a big mower (> 5 HP?) Not sure that it will work correctly, too choked .... : Cry:

It turns your mower into a gas engine. Normally this should be able to keep unburnt to a minimum. :P

It's a shame that you don't add water somewhere ....:frown:

So that this remains possible, I suppose that it is necessary to put the play between the rod and the tube to the maximum of the tolerance (1.5 mm at the radius?) And to make a short reactor with a relatively short rod (150 mm maxi?)

André, You must have tried this system !? : Mrgreen:
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View gildas » 10/01/11, 18:30

Hi,
My engine is a Honda 4,5 hp GCV 135:
Image
The problem is that the carburetor + support is 20 cm wide!: Shock:
En 1: I think it is the device to slow down the engine every 2 seconds when the mower is not running but the engine is at full speed? I will want to remove it because it is held by the bracket 2 which is not integral with the carburetor, so it will prevent me from making two supports to move the carburettor to put it in the reactor inlet.
3: Accelerator cable and starter.

Another problem there is no intake pipe! Can we tap into the engine block? Or another process. (For the engine outlet)

I will immerse the exhaust outlet in a bubbler and then send in the air filter doing more just before I will bend the exhaust pipe at 90 ° (angle with a hole of 6-8 mm to possibly evacuate the excess water towards the ground) So there will be less CO2 in the carbu. It should not clog too much since the intake gases are treated and the exhaust plunges into water.
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View Flytox » 10/01/11, 20:52

Gildas wrote:The problem is that the carburetor + support is 20 cm wide!: Shock:
En 1: I think it is the device to slow down the engine every 2 seconds when the mower is not running but the engine is at full speed? I will want to remove it because it is held by the bracket 2 which is not integral with the carburetor, so it will prevent me from making two supports to move the carburettor to put it in the reactor inlet.
3: Accelerator cable and starter.


Effectively "1" is the throttle which is controlled by the engine speed regulation system. If you take it off, you'll have to take care of slowing down yourself when the engine is not charging. That's what the guy battles after mowing. (on the video that you put before about 1'10 ''):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQWT8lz9mLM

Another problem there is no intake pipe! Can we tap into the engine block? Or another process. (For the engine outlet)

You mean the carb is attached directly to the cylinder head !?
The ideal is to provide a binding that adapts to the original one, it is easier to go back with certain modifications.

I want to immerse the exhaust outlet in a bubbler and then send in the air filter doing more just before I will bend the exhaust pipe at 90 ° (angle with a hole of 6-8 mm to possibly evacuate the excess water towards the ground) So there will be less CO2 in the carbu. It should not clog too much since the intake gases are treated and the exhaust plunges into water.

Can you make the diagram that goes well, not quite understood what you want to do?
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Reason is the madness of the strongest. The reason for the less strong it is madness.

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http://www.editions-harmattan.fr/index. ... te&no=4132
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AXEAU
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View AXEAU » 10/01/11, 21:23

Bonjour.
I join FLYTOX and I advise you not to deform or destroy all the carburetor control parts because one day you will want to return to this configuration. At this time it will be difficult to find the idle and maximum speed settings.
Your carburetor is fixed by the 2 M6 screws which also hold the air filter, so you will have to design an identical fixing and not to touch the cylinder head.
If you move the carburetor, arrange to be able to keep the link with the regulation system.
Before any dismantling, make sure you explain the operation of the regulation control. Never disturb the regulation control (n ° II) without having marked it on its axis.

Be brave
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View gildas » 10/01/11, 21:54

Thank you for AXEAU advice!
Here is a quick sketch!
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View Flytox » 10/01/11, 22:13

In your place I will connect after the carburetor, so as not to have any problems of indé.erdables adjustments to find.
AMHA, to adjust the gas and pressure proportions, you need a valve between the bubbler return and the inlet.


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Reason is the madness of the strongest. The reason for the less strong it is madness.

[Eugène Ionesco]

http://www.editions-harmattan.fr/index. ... te&no=4132
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View gildas » 10/01/11, 22:19

Well done!: P It is true that the sending of steam will be proportional to the load!
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View Flytox » 10/01/11, 22:25

That all the exhaust gases pass through the bubbler, it may be a bit much ..... a bypass of the exhaust may be sufficient. It will also brake the exhaust gases a little less. : Mrgreen:
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Reason is the madness of the strongest. The reason for the less strong it is madness.

[Eugène Ionesco]

http://www.editions-harmattan.fr/index. ... te&no=4132

 


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