Doping an internal combustion engine with water vapor

Edits and changes to engines, experiences, findings and ideas.
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Flytox
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View Flytox » 28/10/10, 22:49

Mmmmmmmmhhhhhh! : Shock: : Mrgreen: : Mrgreen: : Mrgreen:
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Reason is the madness of the strongest. The reason for the less strong it is madness.
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View Other » 31/10/10, 04:48

Hello
ELUCUBRATIONS TO BE CONFIRMED:
FYI, on the blue flame burner, I recycle around 30% of the burnt gases, around 80% of nitrogen + 10% of CO2 + 10% of H2O

With this comparison, we can reasonably estimate that at least 3% of water vapor / volume of air is required by volume.

on an average of 2500rpm at half load 4-stroke engine 1400cc (3L), the air flow would be around
1.4 / 2x (2500/60) x1 / 2 = 14.5L / s or 52m3 / h of air at 20 ° C
The water vapor flow should be around 14.5x0.03 = 0.43L / s or 1.5m3 / h i.e. 1.5L / h of water


For a gasoline engine divser by 2 for the half load ok

For diesel engine no throttle, low intake restriction
at 2500 rpm even at half load (diesel injection) I don't think dividing by 2 the filling rate is the reality?
and if it is a turbo engine it is likely to increase.
For diesel 3 liters of displacement at 2800 rpm I have made it swallow for some time between 1,4 to 1,8 liters of water.
In water doping the downstream engine less than 1% water by weight compared to the weight of the air swallowed from the engine, and often less, depending on the heat of the reactor.
For a gasoline engine the water consumption is significantly less than for a diesel at the same power.
Andre
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View Flytox » 31/10/10, 10:55

Hello André

I'm thinking about a bubbler and I'm missing some info:

- For the pipe which brings the air to the bottom of the bubbler, the diameter of the holes is important or not? (production of many small bubbles or production of a few large bubbles).

-Does the height of water in the bubbler (pressure) influence the result? (production of "good" vapor). Is there a minimum / maximum water height that should not be exceeded?

-What is the minimum / maximum volume of the chamber above the water?

- Is there an advantage in putting a glass cover (transparent) to "monitor" the production of steam / mist etc ...? : Mrgreen:

A+
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Reason is the madness of the strongest. The reason for the less strong it is madness.

[Eugène Ionesco]

http://www.editions-harmattan.fr/index. ... te&no=4132
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View Other » 02/11/10, 04:07

Hello

A bubbler must have a sufficient height to have a free space above the water level a good 150mm, in order to avoid splashing in the bumps of the road, an upwelling of water.
The water level low enough 100 to 150mm a water level too high requires more depression to initiate the bubbling
The copper vapor outlet tube 8 to 10mm in diameter is sufficient. it is on this pipe that a restriction is placed in order to control the quantity of vapor which will pass into the reactor, the quantity of water consumed.
The air inlet tube must be quite large, diameter 18 mm and more, the small holes at the bottom? little change with a simple open pipe. We can put a restriction in the air inlet of the bubbler a plug with a 6mm hole (I tried different sizes) The goal of having a large inlet tube with a restriction on the inlet c 'is to have a pulsed bubbling with each large bubbles, the water comes back into the tube, if you listen while it operates the (bubbler snores) these pulsations improve the system (I do not know the reason?)
Not necessary to have a window, it makes fog, and anyway while driving you cannot see anything.
Insulate the bubbler outlet duct, and even the bubbler in the cold season.
The bubbler works best when the water level is low and after several refills, the bottom of the water becomes contaminated much like the residue of a still.
If you have doubts about the water lifts, put a large 10mm thick felt pad on top of the bubbler.

Andre
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View Flytox » 02/11/10, 21:19

Thanks for the info André 8)

Andre wrote: The goal of having a large inlet tube with a restriction on the inlet is to have a pulsed bubbling with each large bubbles, the water comes back into the tube, if you listen while it operates the (bubbler snoring) these pulsations improve the system (I don't know the reason?)

Do you observe these "pulsations" even under load, or does the phenomenon "smooth out" when the speed increases?

Andre wrote:The bubbler works better when the water level is low ...


Not well understood, how do you maintain the "constant" level in your bubbler if you speak of low level?

If you have doubts about the water lifts, put a large 10mm thick felt pad on top of the bubbler.

It is synthetic felt, the "wool felt" one must end up rotting, right?

You who have a turbo, have you ever tried to blow in the bubbler instead of sucking to bring the air? It changes the operation or not?
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Reason is the madness of the strongest. The reason for the less strong it is madness.

[Eugène Ionesco]

http://www.editions-harmattan.fr/index. ... te&no=4132
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gildas
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View gildas » 03/11/10, 11:13

Capt_Maloche wrote:
More seriously, the rag test is done on an identical course of approximately 20km, and approximately at the same speeds.

The dimensions of the fabrics (cotton only) cut in the same piece should be around 40x40cm for small cubic sizes, to allow a perfect seal around the edge, which does not seem to have been the case with your test on the right

If you don't have improved combustion, it's because you don't have the right flow of water vapor

ELUCUBRATIONS TO BE CONFIRMED:
FYI, on the blue flame burner, I recycle around 30% of the burnt gases, around 80% of nitrogen + 10% of CO2 + 10% of H2O

With this comparison, we can reasonably estimate that at least 3% of water vapor / volume of air is required by volume.

on an average of 2500rpm at half load 4-stroke engine 1400cc (3L), the air flow would be around
1.4 / 2x (2500/60) x1 / 2 = 14.5L / s or 52m3 / h of air at 20 ° C
The water vapor flow should be around 14.5x0.03 = 0.43L / s or 1.5m3 / h i.e. 1.5L / h of water

So why not create a by-pass with an adjustment valve between the exhaust and the intake for a first test?
an EGR valve what :D


Hello,

I will be tempted to make this but I would have to know if the diesel engine EGR valve is open when the engine is doing these first kms of a trip, as this will be the probable cause of the fouling
of admission?

I want to make a 15mm hole in the exhaust
below the car ~ 1,50m (pipe length) from the exhaust manifold to prevent too hot gases entering the intake. (R4 exhaust inner diameter: 30mm) Should I content myself with depleting the air-gasoline mixture using the carburettor screw instead of changing the jets?

I don't want to restrict my exhaust too much because when I do my rag test, the pressure will increase in the exhaust which should send enough gas to my EGR valve of my manufacture.

I will open the EGR valve only when my engine is warm.

Thanks in advance for advice.
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View Flytox » 03/11/10, 21:50

Gildas wrote: I will be tempted to make this but I would have to know if the diesel engine EGR valve is open when the engine is doing these first kms of a trip, as this will be the probable cause of the fouling
of admission?

The EGR valve is closed at idle (but there are exceptions) and especially at high loads (full load).

I want to make a 15mm hole in the exhaust
below the car ~ 1,50m (pipe length) from the exhaust manifold to prevent hot gases from entering the intake. (R4 exhaust inner diameter: 30mm)

The problem is that you are going to have a very long connection pipe ... with a pressure drop too important for there to be good gas circulation. It is definitely better to make it shorter / direct and cool by drifting the coolant. Unfortunately it's more complicated : Cry:

Should I be content to lean the air-fuel mixture using the carburetor richness screw instead of changing the jets?


The carburetor richness screw only acts for slow motion and very low loads. Above it is necessary to act on the main jet. : Mrgreen:

Beware of anti-pollution control, I think it will not pass .... In any case, injecting water upstream of the carburetor is done to get the edge ... in the carburetion. You should inject downstream of the carburetor, you will no longer have this problem of delicate adjustment.
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Reason is the madness of the strongest. The reason for the less strong it is madness.

[Eugène Ionesco]

http://www.editions-harmattan.fr/index. ... te&no=4132
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gildas
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View gildas » 04/11/10, 06:37

The EGR valve is closed at idle (but there are exceptions) and especially at high loads (full load).

Which would mean that it is open even for the first kms of a cold start ... so fouling.

The problem is that you are going to have a very long connection pipe ... with a pressure drop too important for there to be good gas circulation. It is definitely better to make it shorter / direct and cool by drifting the coolant. Unfortunately it's more complicated : Cry:


It may compromise my desire to tinker!

The carburetor richness screw only acts for slow motion and very low loads. Above it is necessary to act on the main jet. : Mrgreen:


Weird ... on a carburetor R5 that I had, I asked a friend of mine to see it because it accelerated badly
even when hot.This one requested the richness screw and the problem was solved ... (but I failed the technical control, too much pollution.)

Beware of anti-pollution control, I think it will not pass .... In any case, injecting water upstream of the carburetor is done to get the edge ... in the carburetion. You should inject downstream of the carburetor, you will no longer have this problem of delicate adjustment.


Downstream from the carburetor, the problem is that there is no intake pipe between the manifold and the carburetor! Just a metal diamond ~ 1cm thick.
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View Flytox » 04/11/10, 19:04

Gildas wrote:
The EGR valve is closed at idle (but there are exceptions) and especially at high loads (full load).

Which would mean that it is open even for the first kms of a cold start ... so fouling.

Some cars check the engine temperature before opening the EGR valve, chai not if this is a general case? In any case, or after 4 or 5 km it should work like hot.

The carburetor richness screw only acts for slow motion and very low loads. Above it is necessary to act on the main jet. : Mrgreen:


Downstream from the carburetor, the problem is that there is no intake pipe between the manifold and the carburetor! Just a metal diamond ~ 1cm thick.


See if you can't redo this thicker piece (or put 2 glued), so that it has room to join your steam pipe while raising the whole.
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Reason is the madness of the strongest. The reason for the less strong it is madness.

[Eugène Ionesco]

http://www.editions-harmattan.fr/index. ... te&no=4132
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gildas
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View gildas » 05/11/10, 05:42

Flytox wrote:Some cars check the engine temperature before opening the EGR valve, chai not if this is a general case? In any case, or after 4 or 5 km it should work like hot.


Well, the ideal would be to find this kind of car and see how quickly the EGR valve gets dirty, maybe it stays clean.

Considering the project in which I want to embark on the uncertain result and
finally when I see the inefficiency of the EGR valve at cold and at high load, why the manufacturers are not interested in producing electricity by the system of Capt_Maloche (by driving a turbine) to produce electricity ?
https://www.econologie.com/forums/amelioration-bruleur-fioul-reduction-nox-et-co-flamme-bleue-t5172.html#top
A shame to produce electricity with fuel oil!
Instead of putting diesel in our cars it would go to power plants and we would drive electric cars.

ps: If you have a 4L that does not start in wet weather
rather than considering a breakdown search, if you can wait and put it in the sun for 2 or 3 hours it can start very well afterwards! (I just did.)
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