I quickly tested my 19 "LCD Samsung 913 N screen, announced with memory for 38W, consumes around 26 W !!!;)
Parcontre it consumes not far from 10W (if my memory serves me) when it is supposed to be off after pressing the power off button !!! ; (
Otherwise I tested a 19 "RTC (tube) screen, a LITEON e1996PNST, it consumes about 70W after one minute of heating.
Parcontre it only consumes when there is a displayed image !!!
When I press the Power OFF button, the consumption drops to 0 and when the PC starts and the video card is not yet powered it also consumes 0 !!!
Why didn't they fuck the same system on the LCD screen !!
Otherwise I did not understand how the PM230 calculates Kwh, I did a test on a freezer, it displayed about 0,02 Kwh after 10Min, then 0,04 Kwh after 30 minutes and finally 0,05 Kwh after 40 minutes ... What worries me is that the freezers are rather given for a consumption of around 200 Kwh ...
Well, I'm going to redo a little more precise and complete tests on all of my electrical devices ...
Ok, I understand it's not Kw / h but Kwh. The consumption is displayed cumulatively ...
It gives me 0.07Kwh for about an hour. which makes me 613,2 Kwh per year! Oops !! that’s a lot compared to the freezers they’re doing right now? Oops, I had not been careful, the potentiometer to adjust the power of the fridge is above normal vé adjust that and redo consumption tests ...
Otherwise someone could refresh my mechanic lessons and give me the value of the ideal cos Phi? it must be something like 0.85 right?
SixK
test campaign with electricity consumption PM230
SixK wrote:I quickly tested my 19 "LCD Samsung 913 N screen, announced with memory for 38W, consumes around 26 W !!!;)
Parcontre it consumes not far from 10W (if my memory serves me) when it is supposed to be off after pressing the power off button !!! ; (
Otherwise I tested a 19 "RTC (tube) screen, a LITEON e1996PNST, it consumes about 70W after one minute of heating.
Parcontre it only consumes when there is a displayed image !!!
When I press the Power OFF button, the consumption drops to 0 and when the PC starts and the video card is not yet powered it also consumes 0 !!!
Why didn't they fuck the same system on the LCD screen !!
Otherwise I did not understand how the PM230 calculates Kwh, I did a test on a freezer, it displayed about 0,02 Kwh after 10Min, then 0,04 Kwh after 30 minutes and finally 0,05 Kwh after 40 minutes ... What worries me is that the freezers are rather given for a consumption of around 200 Kwh ...
Well, I'm going to redo a little more precise and complete tests on all of my electrical devices ...
SixK
Yes 200kW or even 250kW, but per year, not per hour.
A good freezer consumes 0.7kW per day or 0.03 kW / hour and you are, with 0.05kWh in the average consumption of freezing.
0 x
"Thinking should not it be taught in school rather than to make learning by heart the facts that are not all proven?"
"It's not because they are likely to be wrong they are right!" (Coluche)
"It's not because they are likely to be wrong they are right!" (Coluche)
Hi everybody,
I'm new to the site, then you will find a quick overview of me over there.
Can someone confirm?
Is this the case?
I just bought the PM230 wattmeter, I can't wait to share my results with you. I could finalize them as soon as I have my answer.
I'm new to the site, then you will find a quick overview of me over there.
Haha! The PM230 only accumulates the time that a device consumes, so in the case of a fridge that only works roughly one minute every 5 minutes, the calculation of Kwh over a year that I performed based on time and the cumulative consumption is wrong.
Good to have a good estimate of consumption over a year, you have to take out the stopwatch
Can someone confirm?
Is this the case?
I just bought the PM230 wattmeter, I can't wait to share my results with you. I could finalize them as soon as I have my answer.
0 x
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SixK wrote:So in the case of a fridge, which only works roughly one minute every 5 minutes, the calculation of Kwh over a year that I have made based on time and the cumulative consumption is wrong.
Your remark is false .... obviously that the PM only calculates when the device consumes (how would you otherwise) ...
Then you have to have a minimum of scientific common sense: obviously if you make a measurement on the minute or your device works it will not give you the real consumption over the year (unless the device runs 24/24 at the same power of course) ... How would you like him to guess?
Otherwise give us your reasoning and your calculations ... because I may not have understood what you mean ...
If you want a realistic estimate of the annual consumption of a device that works intermittently, you must leave the PM230 plugged in as long as possible ...at least 2 to 3 weeks in "normal" use... the longer this period, the more precise the estimate ...
0 x
Do a image search or an text search - Netiquette of forum
Hi everybody,
Hi Christopher,
First, can we take stock of the precision of the PM230? In the manual, there is here and there and info, but they seem different to me ...
I understood very well the calculation of the precision window which is about at least 2,2 watts. (230 x 0,01 x 1 = 2,3)
However, at the end of the manual, it says:
Power in watt: +/- 5% of the measured value +/- 10 W !! !!
Should we add this margin of error to the precision window? or is it the same thing? In short, I do not find myself there.
If I understood correctly, the only way to get rid of this lack of precision is to take a measurement over a long period, is that correct?
The cumulative being made in kWh, this period can also become quite long if we want to measure the consumption of a device of less than 10 watts. (you actually need to measure at least 20 hours the consumption of a 10 watt device to bring the accuracy to 0,5 watts?)
Hi Christopher,
First, can we take stock of the precision of the PM230? In the manual, there is here and there and info, but they seem different to me ...
I understood very well the calculation of the precision window which is about at least 2,2 watts. (230 x 0,01 x 1 = 2,3)
However, at the end of the manual, it says:
Power in watt: +/- 5% of the measured value +/- 10 W !! !!
Should we add this margin of error to the precision window? or is it the same thing? In short, I do not find myself there.
If I understood correctly, the only way to get rid of this lack of precision is to take a measurement over a long period, is that correct?
The cumulative being made in kWh, this period can also become quite long if we want to measure the consumption of a device of less than 10 watts. (you actually need to measure at least 20 hours the consumption of a 10 watt device to bring the accuracy to 0,5 watts?)
0 x
Hi innuend0
The window is strictly mathematical, the display step being 0.01A you know the rest.
Regarding the precision given in the manual, I considered, perhaps wrongly, that this is the range in which the PM230 must be.
To put it simply, mine tends rather to inflate the "Wattage" and say that yours is the opposite, on the same measure we would have a maximum of 10% difference.
Eg 40W bulb: mine would give 42W yours 38W.
Defining where your PM230 is located should be compared with 1 or better 2 multimeters on voltage and amperage.
You put me a glue, normally I would say no because the addition of Watts must add up the errors.
innuend0 wrote:Hi everybody,
Hi Christopher,
First, can we take stock of the precision of the PM230? In the manual, there is here and there and info, but they seem different to me ...
I understood very well the calculation of the precision window which is about at least 2,2 watts. (230 x 0,01 x 1 = 2,3)
However, at the end of the manual, it says:
Power in watt: +/- 5% of the measured value +/- 10 W !! !!
Should we add this margin of error to the precision window? or is it the same thing? In short, I do not find myself there.
The window is strictly mathematical, the display step being 0.01A you know the rest.
Regarding the precision given in the manual, I considered, perhaps wrongly, that this is the range in which the PM230 must be.
To put it simply, mine tends rather to inflate the "Wattage" and say that yours is the opposite, on the same measure we would have a maximum of 10% difference.
Eg 40W bulb: mine would give 42W yours 38W.
Defining where your PM230 is located should be compared with 1 or better 2 multimeters on voltage and amperage.
If I understood correctly, the only way to get rid of this lack of precision is to take a measurement over a long period, is that correct?
The cumulative being made in kWh, this period can also become quite long if we want to measure the consumption of a device of less than 10 watts. (you actually need to measure at least 20 hours the consumption of a 10 watt device to bring the accuracy to 0,5 watts?)
You put me a glue, normally I would say no because the addition of Watts must add up the errors.
0 x
"Thinking should not it be taught in school rather than to make learning by heart the facts that are not all proven?"
"It's not because they are likely to be wrong they are right!" (Coluche)
"It's not because they are likely to be wrong they are right!" (Coluche)
If I understood correctly, the only way to get rid of this lack of precision is to take a measurement over a long period, is that correct?
The cumulative being made in kWh, this period can also become quite long if we want to measure the consumption of a device of less than 10 watts. (you actually need to measure at least 20 hours the consumption of a 10 watt device to bring the accuracy to 0,5 watts?)
You put me a glue, normally I would say no because the addition of Watts must add up the errors.
I stayed on the percentage of precision, but I forgot the display window (2.3W) which it will indeed be divided by the number of hours. (And also by the number of identical devices measured together, but other variations may occur.)
Voltage variations are the most delicate point in the measurement
since the PM230 does not have the voltage at the same time as the consumption in Watt, the time to change modes, we can have a difference of 2 or 3 volts.
0 x
"Thinking should not it be taught in school rather than to make learning by heart the facts that are not all proven?"
"It's not because they are likely to be wrong they are right!" (Coluche)
"It's not because they are likely to be wrong they are right!" (Coluche)
Hello everybody,,
I have not read everything but I'm interested in this PM230 device, but I have not deepened the subject ....... so as Bucheron would say, think before you act, it is of course applicable to the counselor / instructor of lessons in 1st place !!
Well let's talk seriously: In fact it is badly placed here, I will create a separate subject
This is when I built and installed my electrical network, I didn't know that:
- it is a nuisance for the inhabitants (radiation), especially in the bedrooms when sleeping (the body is not in a state of defense against attack).
- that there are shielded beams which can suppress this radiation (maybe not at the time?).
Also to avoid these drawbacks: there is a device that I ordered and installed in my switchboard.
it is called "automatic phase disconnect relay" or field switch or bio-phase relay. Here.
Thanks to this device, the electric fields which harm and disturb your health, become nonexistent as soon as the last lamp or electric device located on the protected network goes out.
This product was sold to me by an electrician in "biotic electricity" (it is a German product), I bought it and installed it in February 1990.
The principle: when the last light bulb or electrical appliance goes out, the network under control of this appliance switches to 6 volts (instead of 220 volts). The radiation becomes NULL.
BUT, you have to separate the kitchen appliances which have a digital time display (oven) + fridge and freezer (permanent operation).
That's what I did on the board.
Then, no device is needed, even when switched off, which powers a transformer. For example, I have low voltage halogen lamps powered by a transformer, the inter is before the transformer. In the case of a desk lamp with integrated transformer, in general the switch above cuts the power after the transformer (transformer permanently supplied). So I put a switch on the power wire BEFORE the lamp power: therefore, the transformer is not supplied if the lamp is off.
No clock radio with digital display in the rooms of course !!!
No device on this circuit should be left on standby.
Once these precautions are taken, it works very well:
2 advantages:
1 - it is certain that no device is in standby at night,
2 - no harmful radiation in the rooms during sleep.
If you are kind and interested I will make copies of the documents for you.
In 1990, it still cost 2000 francs or 300 euros.
I have not read everything but I'm interested in this PM230 device, but I have not deepened the subject ....... so as Bucheron would say, think before you act, it is of course applicable to the counselor / instructor of lessons in 1st place !!
Well let's talk seriously: In fact it is badly placed here, I will create a separate subject
This is when I built and installed my electrical network, I didn't know that:
- it is a nuisance for the inhabitants (radiation), especially in the bedrooms when sleeping (the body is not in a state of defense against attack).
- that there are shielded beams which can suppress this radiation (maybe not at the time?).
Also to avoid these drawbacks: there is a device that I ordered and installed in my switchboard.
it is called "automatic phase disconnect relay" or field switch or bio-phase relay. Here.
Thanks to this device, the electric fields which harm and disturb your health, become nonexistent as soon as the last lamp or electric device located on the protected network goes out.
This product was sold to me by an electrician in "biotic electricity" (it is a German product), I bought it and installed it in February 1990.
The principle: when the last light bulb or electrical appliance goes out, the network under control of this appliance switches to 6 volts (instead of 220 volts). The radiation becomes NULL.
BUT, you have to separate the kitchen appliances which have a digital time display (oven) + fridge and freezer (permanent operation).
That's what I did on the board.
Then, no device is needed, even when switched off, which powers a transformer. For example, I have low voltage halogen lamps powered by a transformer, the inter is before the transformer. In the case of a desk lamp with integrated transformer, in general the switch above cuts the power after the transformer (transformer permanently supplied). So I put a switch on the power wire BEFORE the lamp power: therefore, the transformer is not supplied if the lamp is off.
No clock radio with digital display in the rooms of course !!!
No device on this circuit should be left on standby.
Once these precautions are taken, it works very well:
2 advantages:
1 - it is certain that no device is in standby at night,
2 - no harmful radiation in the rooms during sleep.
If you are kind and interested I will make copies of the documents for you.
In 1990, it still cost 2000 francs or 300 euros.
0 x
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