Wood pellets for heating ...

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Ahmed
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by Ahmed » 14/10/15, 23:04

It is slightly off topic, but the heating season is approaching and for those who saw their wood and are embarrassed sawdust and small associated waste, there is a simple trick to remove them usefully.
Indeed, it is possible to burn sawdust in a log stove (mixed): simply fill the 3 / 4 paper packaging bags and pack well.
In this way, the sawdust will burn slowly and cleanly, which is not the case if it is introduced by shovel ...
Those with large quantities of sawdust would benefit from using a sawdust stove (either making it or using a vertical stove, like Déom).
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by chatelot16 » 14/10/15, 23:45

I have always been collecting sawdust and throwing it into the wood fire with a shovel ... but with a natural draft, if I put too much sawdust it chokes the combustion, and I wondered if it brought energy or if it spoiled the energy of the good wood by decreasing the yield

Since I use a kind of blast kind of forge I do not ask myself more questions: it can work with pure sawdust! ... it also burns advertising yet not very fuel with more 50% of mineral matter
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by Macro » 15/10/15, 06:33

Mistrust with sawdust balanced directly on a bed of ember in a closed stove ... I happened backdraft once with our boiler to wood when I lived with my old ... When we find ourselves in the boiler room with incandescent ashes everywhere alone and what is more half-sounded ...
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by Ahmed » 15/10/15, 08:10

Of course, Macro, hence my recommendation ...
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by Grelinette » 17/10/15, 14:41

Hello everybody

Since a few days the cold has arrived at home, in Provence.

I will install a new wood stove and try to make a comparative test between:

- classic wood logs (real tree wood : Cheesy: oak, pine)

- and reconstituted wood logs purchased at the local supermarket.

It will be necessary to determine if indeed these reconstituted logs are interesting in term of efficiency, yield, economy, etc ...

I intend to do empirical tests taking quantities Logs of wood / Reconstituted logs of the same mass, and burn them successively in a stove by measuring the time of combustion, the ease of ignition, and, as far as possible the temperature produced in the room, by raising the outside temperature.

A friend lent me a Thermologger which can record the temperatures over a given period. (If anyone knows this product and uses it, their advice would be helpful).

If you have ideas and tips for this type of test, I look forward to it! ... thank you.
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by Did67 » 17/10/15, 15:37

Ideally, it would be to have two loggers and to record the internal temperature and at the same time the external temperature.

By plotting the curves, the area between these two curves gives a "measure" of the loss of calories from the house. The area is proportional to these losses.

It would also be necessary to "neutralize" the effect of the thermal inertia of the house. And therefore proceed over a sufficient period. For example: a week natural logs then a week compressed logs ...

Measure weights and evoked surfaces. Make the connection between the two ...
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by Ahmed » 17/10/15, 17:45

There are densified logs whose constituent is only bark (oak, it seems to me); this particular product is often used at night by users of conventional logs because they burn slowly and keep the fire burning until morning.
I have no personal experience of the thing, the only additional info is that it produces a lot of ashes ... to try?

I also turned on the stove and tried to put soot in a bag, as for sawdust and see what it gives: impossible to compact, but slow combustion with flames of good appearance; the mass of soot tends to agglomerate under the effect of heat, which is not worse.
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by chatelot16 » 17/10/15, 21:18

at the moment I'm heating up with brushwood grinded by the Chinese crusher 13ch ... it heats well but it's a huge amount of ash ... it must be said that these scrub were piled up all summer and then picked up a the fork to pass in the crusher, with a lot of earth with ... once crushed what is too green ferment and heats ... therefore decreases the useful energy but does not decrease the amount of ash

profitability of the densified log? in my opinion it is not the calorific value the problem, it is rather the price! it's good for bobo in the city center where there is no real wood tree ... but when you want to buche there is enough real wood!

my story of crushing everything to fuel is to value what is not currently salable ... the good firewood in the log is sold ... the little branch that is worthless I crush them for me
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Re: Compressed logs for heating ...




by Grelinette » 03/12/16, 10:48

Hello everybody

I reactivate this topic which is now relevant with the cold that has settled in most French regions.

It seems that the concept of compressed beech has become a must: most DIY stores open large racks to offer, and the choice of products is growing. In the same way many smes specialized in the trade of these logs are created and proposes this new product.

Having a lot of wood around my home, I had not tested yet but I just did it and here are my findings.

It is necessarily more expensive than wood but at the level of ease of transport, storage, cleanliness, handling and reliability (because many sellers of wood sell wood still wet), these logs are more interesting than wood, especially if you order several to a large amount!

At the burning level, these logs are the equivalent of wood (for a dry and dense wood), and leave less ash. But they are undeniably more reliable because they give almost the same result in terms of burning time and heat emitted.

So, for now, apart from the price, these logs seem to present a very interesting solution.
For the price precisely, it is not easy to compare because the price of firewood is very fluctuating, sometimes disappointing (humidity, irregularity of the logs), and the transport and the manpower which go with it are additional costs that 'we forget.
The compressed wood logs are sold in packs of 5 or 6 logs, very easy to handle and transport neatly in the trunk of a car.

On the other hand these logs are sold in plastic, which is not very "eco (no) lo", but very practical because isolated from humidity, even from rain if left in your garden while waiting for time to put them away.

I mentioned the "diversity" of the choice of these products and I admit that I was pleasantly surprised by one of them: the so-called "night" log

Here are the 2 kinds of logs that I tested. The clear one is a classic log, the dark one is a "night log" (it would be made with bark of wood).
buches.jpg


Here is the label of the pack of night logs (I will post the label of the classic log to give you the performance values):
night beech.jpg


Actually, a nightcap placed in my wood stove, completely closed at the level of the air intake, is consumed until the morning, keeps the stove still very hot in the early morning, and leaves a large amount of red ashes enough to quickly revive an outbreak by simply placing a wooden log on the ashes.
Generally, with wood, I am obliged to put a log in the night to keep a good heat until the morning, otherwise the stove is cold.

I was very skeptical, but I recognize the undeniable comfort and efficiency of these logs!
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Re: Compressed logs for heating ...




by Ahmed » 03/12/16, 16:02

I wrote:
There are densified logs whose constituent is only bark (oak, it seems to me); this particular product is often used at night by users of conventional logs because they burn slowly and keep the fire burning until morning.

Regarding what you call the "reliability" of classic wood logs, you mention the fact that
... many wood sellers sell wood still wet ...

Properly dried logs can hardly be found except with small sellers who market only the surplus of their personal production: those who brew large volumes do not have the financial capacity to bear the cost of sufficient storage (except some , who buy dried wood from small producers, giving them "hot potatoes"). The solution could be greenhouse storage, as is the practice in Germany, but this also comes at a cost; for the user, the easiest way is to provide a rotation such that it allows an appropriate storage period (two summers for wood in one meter, one summer for 50 or 33 cm).
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