Reactor mounted in series

Water injection in thermal engines and the famous "pantone engine". General informations. Press clippings and videos. Understanding and scientific explanations on the injection of water into engines: ideas for assemblies, studies, physico-chemical analyzes.
Murphy59
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by Murphy59 » 04/03/06, 09:39

Hello André

Thank you for your precious advice, I will gather the material while awaiting the results,

on the other hand I have a 30mm shorter sizing glue to that of my engine it comes from a 1,4 TS mine is a 1,8 TS the reach of the connecting rod is longer on the 1,8, XNUMX I'm going to make a double reactor in the same style as didier and michel's SG
and the insert in these 30 mm as its I would have no cut to make, and if the test of the 4 reactor is concluded I would make one.

Murphy
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jean63
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by jean63 » 04/03/06, 16:14

murphyxnumx : Arrow:

What is your engine?

I have a 21 liter R1,7 nevada petrol engine with the same Y exhaust outlet. I just read with interest what André advised you. I will follow your assembly because I am not ready for the realization, I have problems to settle in 1st place with the carburetor deformed at the base at the joint with the intake manifold.

Andre : Arrow:
In my case the connection of the Y is done after the curve under the car, so we move away from the intake, which is not very good for the routing of the "gas" from the reactor outlet to the intake?
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by Other » 04/03/06, 19:26

Hello Jean

For your carburetor it is a disease of the age and especially an excessive tightening of the carburetor with a thick joint which is often there to prevent the transmission of too much heat in the tank of the carburetor.
What you have to do is that you file the base of the carburetor so that the places where the passage of the bolts is lower than the body of the carburetor, it ends up with a domed assembly
instead of concave, this way you are sure that tightening will make it tight.

For the position of the reactor in a petrol engine, heat is available, even 30cm from the collector (for a diesel it is not even available at the level of the collector at low speed)

The results of the multi reactor will teach us a little more about
as well as steam injection, You should not put too much pressure on Michel and give him time To tweak the settings

Andre
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jean63
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by jean63 » 05/03/06, 00:27

André,

Thank you for your wise advice. : Idea:
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Only when he has brought down the last tree, the last river contaminated, the last fish caught that man will realize that money is not edible (Indian MOHAWK).
Murphy59
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by Murphy59 » 09/03/06, 13:22

jean63 wrote:murphyxnumx : Arrow:

What is your engine?

I have a 21 liter R1,7 nevada petrol engine with the same Y exhaust outlet.



Hello

my engine is petrol
1.8 L TwinSpark from Alfa Romeo
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by jean63 » 09/03/06, 14:24

Andre : Arrow:

that's it the carb problem is solved: I had to put back a richness adjustment screw which had disappeared + filed the base of the carburetor at the level of the 4 fixing screws in the angles + changed the whole base which was cracked and the joint. Thanks for the tip (as well as babache8 and gegyx).

Result: it turns much better at idling, more seepage of petrol at the base of the carburetor!, There is still a problem because the idling is not constant; I'm going to watch the tumblers. Ignition is OK (igniter head + spark plugs). There may also be a malfunctioning idle regulator (it's an electronic ignition without platinum screws). So I go step by step.

murphyxnumx : Arrow:

OK, thanks. When you go for the pantone on your Alfa, keep us posted. thank you in advance : Idea:
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by Other » 09/03/06, 18:13

Hello
it would surprise me that this is the electronic ignition
it works or it doesn't work, watch the candle wires
if this tends to be missing on a cylinder.
Do not exaggerate on the spark plug space this is the main cause that makes the electronic module jump.
There is no regulator on the carburetor slowdown
there is just a good adjustment to make
This adjustment is done when the engine is warm, slightly increases the aim of the throttle butterfly valve, adjusts it with the screw (rich spring) until the engine gallops it becomes rich, then we tighten the target wealth for the depleted until has that it turns round and very soft.
and we end up aiming to unscrew to have the desired ralenite
and There you go!

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by jean63 » 09/03/06, 18:45

Andre : Arrow:

I found the cause. When removing the engine oil filler cap, there was oil splashing ... weird!
So I checked all the hose connections from the oil breather, and here it was: the hose was cracked and the collar was not tight enough (I'm going to buy a new hose). Now I have a vacuum by opening the oil filler cap and the engine is running at idle .... yay !!

NB: I was talking about an idle speed regulator because I have this problem on my R25 electronic injection (the membrane of this regulator, which is on the fuel supply of the injectors with a small pipe connected in bypass on the manifold d intake; he was spitting gasoline through this pipe when there is normally an air depression). I looked on the R21 there is no such system.
For adjusting the idle, I know how; thanks anyway.

In any case, thank you for your "tips". : Idea:
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