Reactor sizing

[gegyx]

In the subject entitled "The Canadian Well"
I had intervened to denounce the scam of the fake air conditioning / air cooler, on sale in supermarkets:
« The humidifier is the moistened cloth that soaks in water and evaporates under the fan. (…… as there is in 12v for cars). But this generates humidity for wallpapers… »
I also asked you for details on how to air condition my house, cheaply, after having ruled out this previous solution in view of the damage to the wallpapers.
And you see, it never even occurred to me, the possibility of using it to power the reactor!…
Also, I congratulate you Andre for your brilliant and "very simple" idea.
If this is confirmed, after doping only with water, it will be a means of further simplification of the Pantone.

It should also be specified, that you have been tracking for a while, this "kind of smoke", below 95 ° C, which was not steam, but a wet gas which you could not qualify, but which was best suited to the reactor in all your experiments.
If it is humid air, this explains the better performance of the engines, in rainy weather.
If a high humidity of air is the best supply of Pantone, in tropical countries, it would be enough to supply the reactor with air from the air filter?
On a car, a kind of funnel, blocked by a humidifier, behind a motor-fan, or behind the grille, at the front of the car, would feed a reserve into which the reactor would pump.
To deepen.

Gegyx

[gerald]

I must say that this corresponds to the assembly of my pressure cooker. You can see the details: http://quanthomme.free.fr/pantone/realisat.../FrancePMC5.htm
Lukewarm water in which air bubbles come out of holes less than a millimeter. Lots of very small bubbles. Thus the air is charged with humidity without it being steam. This makes it possible to have a bulb at a fairly low temperature with the advantages: 1 / the use of a float (random if the water boils), 2 / not to create an overpressure due to boiling
Gérald

[small]

I did a little the same system on the diesel jeep my bulker is vacuum with a dip tube pierced with a multitude of small holes which makes little stir in the bulker I also adapted a silencer filter of compressed air in fried metal and there I am sure that I have no water passing through the reactor.
thinking of the sponge I wonder if we could not do the same thing with a big silencer in fried metal? I have to try to spray water through it to see.

[Other]

Hello Gérald
It looks strangely like my Mercedes 300TD your mounting
Except that yours has the air of an atmospheric 5 cylinder. (1984)
If you could give us the consumption figures before and after
Approximately.
Since the arrival of the cold mine begins to consume, it is true that I only do DIY 5 to 15 km per trip so I can not take these figures on consideration, but this summer in a great trip in my best day ve managed to make 6,45 liters per 100km by driving between 100 and 110kmh on a flat highway.
what I would like to compare if a water carburetor achieves the same performance as a bubbler.
Currently I am testing the sponge with carburetor, but the vehicle will be stored for the winter, it is old and I do not want to make it hard in calcium.
I had thought of putting a large sponge in the bubbler at least in the top of the bubbler, naked good that supports hot water ... In spring.
by the time of other further testing on the reactor and rod. (mounting small engine test bench)
Andre

[gerald]

Response to André,
It was a 200D 4 cylinder, it returned after 1 km on the odometer but during the last year the odometer counted only 300 km out of 000! It was still his 1nd engine. I have little control over the consumption because the gauge was rubbish and the counter was messing around. By using empirical means I could see 11% savings on a mountain trip. Before adaptation it consumed in the 2 l, after in the 32 to 10.5 l. With the local group (Olifere), I pantonized a 7nd Merco with 7.5 reactors but the results were not very conclusive - 2 to 2% savings. I think that depression, being divided by 5 was no longer sufficient.
Gérald

[Kedar]

hi how many CVs did your mercade make?
for my part I am happy with my fuel and the line mounted against the exhaust line that makes 3500km
that it turns and I touch wood .....
for the reactor I bought it all made of refractory stainless steel it was well finished
André thank you for your science
@+

[khartoum]

Hello, I am going to mount my reactor shortly on a 1.9 Turbo Diesel PSA engine of 92 Ch (68 Kw;)).
I plan to mount a 200 mm stainless steel reactor with a diameter between 16 and 18 mm in a stainless steel tube with an internal diameter of 20 mm.

This is a water doping, do you validate my dimensions or do I have to mount 2 smaller reactors?


I intend subsequently to experience bubbling by exhaust gases.

Goods.

[Other]

Hello reply to kartoum
I believe that for a small engine like yours it would be wiser to make a single reactor, unless you like complicated things because multiple reactors is a little more work if you are not very equipped and that the time you have available is tight, for the little difference that it gives two reactors ... As we say pilot jargon when you pilot a twin-engine you have two troubles to manage, better a good single-engine, which works well.
For a doping with water 150mm long it is sufficient air gap 1,5 mm maximum, and channels the heat of the exhaust well on the reactor, especially on a turbo there is no residue, so plant your reactor in the exhaust pipe, and to hell with the restriction, it is a necessary evil for the Panton.
It seems to me that it makes a jolt that you speak about your editing?
it’s time for you to take action .. send it off .. once the reactor is installed, you will have plenty of time to try a bubbler, a carburetor or a wick pot (sponge) like the one I want to improve.

For Cedar
Your fuel can you play with the water flow? if yes, when you try a different flow give us your conclusions, because I would like to compare myself with others in terms of performance versus water consumption, I still can not establish a good rule based water consumed
there are too many variables (notably reactor temperature) that I still cannot control, with several testers we could go faster.
Andre
Andre

[muzo_31]

I too am about to start my reactor on the same PSA 1900 TD block.
I will try to make the one that has the 2 concentric tubes with a homemade carburetor, like Andre.

If you have comments, now is the time !!

I'll give you my data as soon as it works.
Unlike Andre, the arrival of bad days and a good thing for this DIY because I stay in the workshop rather than being out and about; o)

Very soon I hope ...

[Kedar]

Bonsoir
for the answer to André: I have a water consumption of about 50 cl / 100 km
at the beginning I could not spray properly (10 cl / 100km) and I was given the idea to put the starter and put the bushel in the Max position, I surrounded the whole with rags to accentuate the depression making a great air filter
and there ... miracle the engine started to "purr" like never I had felt it and to consume 1L less
so I didn't touch anything anymore.
I wait to have a little time to pantonize my professional van ...
because for the moment he is a little fed on acetone but that is not enough for me
@+