What points to check before work / renovation

[clown]

The guy who comes back every 2 months ...

But at the same time, in 2 months, I have more info

So, the exterior walls: 20 of concrete block, 12 of polystyrene, 5 of brick. I guess the 0,5 of plaster on the brick and the 1 of plaster doesn't count If I understood everything RT2007 which applies today in renovation, I should, if work, have a minimum R of 2,3. And only with the 12 of poly, I have them right? So, we come back to the words of the lumberjack, who told me that unless I broke everything and had a crazy budget, I would not gain much.

For the attic: 25 of wool spread on the ground. I guess I could always put some fresh wool on top, just to equalize but hey ...

Stay more than the crawlspace (not on it yet. Yes I know, I abuse ) to check.

But hey, given the thicknesses of current insulation, not sure there is much to do unless rebuild. An opinion on the issue ?

[Obamot]

I had done something that already answered certain questions, repeated here:

There are lots of simple things that you can do whether you are an owner or a tenant, to improve the thermal insulation and energy efficiency of everything that makes up a home, through simple and inexpensive measures that will also drastically improve the feeling of "comfort" for a given room temperature. It also allows take stock about his current situation by establishing a sort ofstate of play of energy efficiency room-by-room, and to list all that can be improved, such as:

1) put profiled joints (sold rolled up by several meters), profile in "d" which are effective and not the flat ones, because in a profile in "d", the air can pass in the cavity and they adapt to the doorframe etc.
The dishes are less expensive, but relatively ineffective, especially if there is humidity!) To be put on all contact points, closing doors and / or windows, taking care of them and mainly the landing door ( or main entrance) which makes large calls for air from the side of the threshold and even through the locks, including the thresholds where it is sometimes necessary to put an ad hoc threshold type aluminum profile in "L" (in order to seal all around, it is also valid for the rooms inside the habitat, in which one stays little, it is according to). Silconer also carefully (after having cut the current) the sheaths of the electric cables which make real calls for air in all the construction ... (each socket and each switch, including household appliances in the kitchen and electric hobs, as much as ceiling lights)!

2) plug all air-permeable holes with silicone (and polyurethane foam when cavities are present);

3) attach extruded polystyrene panels to the sprocket wall (if not properly insulated). It's cheap and effective!

4) condemn the ventilation ducts (or in any case put a hermetic closure all the time when they are not used, kitchen, bathroom, stay, etc)

5) to manufacture its own double glazing thanks to sheets of cellophanes (of the type found in florists' shops, since they are totally transparent and can be cut with a small margin all around, and to be sealed with Scotch tape. coachbuilder that we will change once a year)

6) take into account when making adjustments / transformations, such as changing the flooring, acquiring less energy-hungry household appliances, etc .;

7) also, take into account the temperature produced inside the home itself by its own occupants, and the electrical equipment like the computer, all that will improve the situation!

8} generalize the use of LED lamps (I saw that we can replace everything, since there are now even more powerful than 1000watt hallogens, still reserved for construction sites and between 50 and 100 € but prices will go down and it will become accessible to all ...)

9) put timers that allow to stop automatically (without forgetting them) the heating of extra and other electrical devices that we do not use when we are not there ...

10) the question you ask is also a good question to consider when looking for a new home, because indeed, when there is already, there are fewer possibilities ...!

11) reinforce the insulation of the aluminum window frames, which are real colanders and cause massive air inlets (avoid aluminum in renovations because of the cold bridge they cause).

12) identify any "cold bridges", and carry out interior insulation over a distance of 1 m from the facade (gable wall, etc. both slabs and walls), we will use a carpet for the floor on latex foam or something (possibly plastic lino floors with underlay) and for walls and ceilings, extruded polystyrene board, for example.

etc ...

Here are some tips! It is therefore necessary to track by all means, "circulating air" in a construction (we can sometimes use the flame of a candle if we have a doubt, it will be attracted by the air current. .) If we have gone too far and over-insulated without realizing it, we still have the possibility of installing a VMC exchanger with double flow (if we are the owner, of course ...). There are also these mobile air conditioning production units, which can be used to dehumidify the air at the same time they heat it ... Not very ecological but very efficient and comfortable certain.

But obviously by seeing photos, it's always better to represent things ...

[clown]

Thanks Obamot for these "few" tips.

So, in bulk:

For the joints around the windows, this was planned. By cons, I did not know that the dishes were less efficient than D. I take note.

For the catches: For those I have looked at for the moment, I did not have the impression of a phenomenal call of air. It must be said that the connection boxes are in the brick part of the wall, and that the polystyrene is behind. But I will still check with a candle, see what it gives.
... I just read you again ... So, for the other "blues" like me, who read too quickly Not the sockets to be siliconized, but the sheaths!

For your point 3: inside the house or outside? Because inside, the polystyrene / brick / polystyrene sandwich seems average to me, in terms of wall breathing. no ?

4 - I come back to it later.

5 - Is it really effective? In addition to the "basic" double glazing (1994 ... not great at the time, I noticed that the glass was very cold.) While waiting to have a little money to change the windows?

11 - it's all wood! it's already that.

In fact, my main problem in this beautiful fall is more humidity. I have the impression that the former owner had made a relatively waterproof house, without VMC, which means that every morning at the moment, I have steam on the windows (on the other hand, the walls are dry and the ones that I have removed from their old coating are nickels (both the exterior walls and the partition walls). So, installation of VMC, that is planned. But, is this really the best solution?

[Obamot]

Yes, thin! Of course: don't siliconize the plugs, eh! But the SHEATH ... and not put too much if not the next time, a little humidity and ... POP!





Point 3: I said that we must take stock of the situation and act accordingly! So "cellars not" it depends ...

Side "breathing", it depends on the house and its age! But since most of them are real Gruyères, there is little risk that it will not breathe at all ... But yes, you have to be careful: you're right ... Too bad Bidouille is not there, he always has the right words ...

Point 5: Aaaaaah bein for that, the only way to find out is to try! Here, before replacing windows with 2x PVC and argon gas, we had already gained 3 ° C and more. But already a degree is enormous in terms of difference. But I would be lying if I said it was as good as the news!

You have to see that if you have glazier's putty, it cracks and air can pass in the room (we sometimes see it because of condensation), even if it's very little, it's huge in terms of air volume (as much air passing through an open door as wide open, because of the phenomenon of air draw ... difference in pressure, temperature etc which causes a suction phenomenon).

So the coef of the film in itself is not terrible, but the air trapped between the glass and the film, acts as a heat shield: a real quasi-static air gap! And there yes it becomes effective, because the air is very light, therefore excellent insulator ... And overall, even with a few holes, it circulates little. On the inside, on the other hand, you have to put it very carefully, very tender but not too much and perfectly airtight. (and if you have at the same time taken care of the tightness on the outside, then you are at the TOP) NB, if you have fog, it is because it is not hermetic, then adjust that (if you have no glazier's putty on your windows, you can try to disassemble / unscrew a little and use a silicone gun ... you have to cut the nozzle small, so as not to put too much, but enough so that it comes out easily, we will make a very small cut with the cutter, then a test, then enlarge a chouilla, then test again ...) Of course that to put gaskets all around the windows is imperative (the gasket must go all the way around, then at the end be beveled to fit into the starting tube, which makes a very hermetic continuum ...! All the interest of the "d" profile which can bend in the contours, while the dishes are cut and the air thus passes through the interstice => what makes everything on the ground )

Obviously thoroughly degrease the amounts with solvent BEFORE installation and if it is dirty, clean first! It must be super clean to adhere well! No old glue residues either (If necessary scrape with a carpenter's blade the dusty places that resist, it must be nickel before ... after it's too late.)

And on the cellophane film side, it's really cheap, my superette florist knows me well, I buy her a beautiful bouquet of flowers and give her a few euros to have a sheet rolled to the required dimensions ... And sometimes I leave in offering him the flowers (which Obamot dredger ..)
You add 2 € for the roll of body tape (to whom you don't offer flowers if you don't want to take a chestnut ^^) and so on ...