PER tube instead of copper tubes?

[jc-tergal]

Hello

I would like to know if I can use PER tube rather than copper from my wood boiler to the buffer tank, and from this tank to the rest of my heating pipes already in place?

Basically I put the buffer tank between the boiler and the heating network, so instead of copper to connect the whole, can I use PER tube or even you black polyethylene tube with a blue line (which is used for the domestic water in general)? Will it withstand the pressure, the heat?

[Christophe]

For the PER, I don't quite understand your question since it is made for that ... it holds at 120 ° C I think. I used it for the assembly of our boiler.



More pics: https://www.econologie.com/forums/photos-et- ... t4368.html

For polyethylene (uh it would not be rather polypropylene?) Even if it holds the temperature you will, I think, struggle to connect it to the network because you will have to find the right fitting well tight and resistant to pressure and T ° ... not even sure that it exists ..

For the PER think not to take the very first price (that of LM and DIY): some age badly (internal film that peels off) ...

[delnoram]

For the PER, I don't quite understand your question since it is made for that ... it holds at 120 ° C I think. I used it for the assembly of our boiler.

The indications of the PER tube manufacturer regarding maximum pressure and temperature must be observed, without however exceeding 6 bar and 95 ° C

For polyethylene (er, wouldn't that be polypropylene?)

PER polyethylene Crosslinked, the water pipes are all it seems to me in polyethylene except for an American exception in polybutylene which I believe no longer exists.

[Christophe]

Yes for the PER but for the water pipes my plumber told me yesterday that it was polypropylene ... after good I just repeat ...



For 95 ° C it is 6 bar or absolute? I chippote but good ...

[delnoram]

Yes for the PER but for the water pipes my plumber told me yesterday that it was polypropylene ... after good I just repeat ...

Well, I'm like you, I don't know all the hits , especially large diameters.

Suddenly a little research and presto that's the subject of the offense.
http://www.str.mu/fr/products/pressurize.html

[jc-tergal]

For the PER, I don't quite understand your question since it is made for that ... it holds at 120 ° C I think. I used it for the assembly of our boiler.



More pics: https://www.econologie.com/forums/photos-et- ... t4368.html

For polyethylene (uh it would not be rather polypropylene?) Even if it holds the temperature you will, I think, struggle to connect it to the network because you will have to find the right fitting well tight and resistant to pressure and T ° ... not even sure that it exists ..

For the PER think not to take the very first price (that of LM and DIY): some age badly (internal film that peels off) ...

yes polypropylene rather. But I drop this idea

Good therefore OK for the PER but of good quality

Thank you for the info.

Christophe, I can't really see where the PER tube is connected, which leaves from the top of the buffer tank and also seems to be connected to the bottom of the buffer tank or on the expansion tank. I can't understand this connection

[bpval]

Hello

Sympa, Delnoram, Tubes and fittings PE-RT for pressurized hot and cold water Pn 4 and 80 °

With that, I put the blue of heating and here is Mario the plumber

Hello

[jc-tergal]

it is the duration in time, not necessarily tubes but rather the connection that worries me: Glue, plastic joint ... compared to a good brazing of copper tubes I am a little afraid of premature wear and leaks at this level.

[bpval]

Hello

The duration over time. !!!

Copper is a real pile ... even poured in a rewinding ... even with a protective sheath (I don't remember the name anymore)
As long as an individual leaves another reactive metal lying around in this same reuse and that is the leakage guaranteed after 3 years

Most of the losses (leaks) found in the building are due to poor copper-copper soldering

PER in my opinion it's good

Hello

[Christophe]

it is the duration in time, not necessarily tubes but rather the connection that worries me: Glue, plastic joint ... compared to a good brazing of copper tubes I am a little afraid of premature wear and leaks at this level.

On quality PERs (which cost around 40% more than the 1st prices but which last ... 400% longer ) the fittings including biconical + internal toroid with fairly easy assembly (just cut to the right length with a margin of error of 2 x 5mm).

Each fitting costs around 5 euros (it goes up quickly but when you see the linear price of copper ... the PER remains cheaper).

For info, I did in PER mainly because of the curves and the fact that I was not sure not to have to change my editing (and I did well since I had to change it ...).

I had forgotten to tighten one to the key and it was waterproof (well, almost a slight drip after a week ... so I "wiped out" and it was settled). It was just to say that at the fitting level it is really well studied.

For the diagram of my circuit here it is: https://www.econologie.com/forums/chaudiere- ... t4589.html

He has walked nickel since January. The recess is OFF the solar has taken over ...

ps: bpval, copper alone is not a battery but it can be "eaten" over the years by too acidic sanitary water ... avoid anyway the copper plugged directly into aluminum radiators because we have a battery which pierces the radiator I think.