Advice for the realization of an extension of my house

[Obamot]

Wow! And to say that I was going to forget: the central question of wood (since all the other points seem to find a solution in the debate) is the poor sound insulation of everything that is based on cellulose fiber!

There you have to be careful, I know that here there are some who maintain that we can create a sandwich in walls, designed so that frequencies cancel each other out ... But that remains fairly theoretical and I would not ignite the debate around that: but the surface mass of the wood does not argue in its favor ...!

In my humble opinion: this is an essential point to watch (or so we put concrete blocks for the walls and we are quiet ...).

There it would be better for a project manager and an architect who know their job. The best thing is to go and visit the constructions they have already carried out, and to examine the building around this question.

[bidouille23]

Too late obamot you said it the wick is lit .... ;)

so personal sound level if you do the dubbing in compressed gypsum board (fermacell type), and not in plasterboard, the sound level is quite good, in addition it all depends on the place and the passage;) ...

What makes that the point of view of soundproofing is not so much a problem ...

The important point to settle, as have evoked on another subject with did67, it is the mass, it is necessary to make some walls in btc for example to have a thermal inertia, but nothing very boring;) nor to complicate neither expensive ...

but in the end when you compare the gray energy spent on cinder block or brick, in comparison with a mob, the amount of co2 created at each stage, and finally the case of the final demolition , with a mob you can burn everything so to speak, with brick or concrete block try to make fire;) ...

Finally concerning the prie de reviens, a mob built with the GREBB mode is more economical and effective than any other method (in my opinion;)) ...

[Coati84]

Hi,

Thank you for your interesting comments.

I will actually have windows facing east for the 2 bedrooms of the extension, plan to put very insulating windows, walls and a well insulated ceiling. I read JP's books to prepare my 1st renovation. OLIVA which are very well made and know this notion of thermal mass. I have a cross wall in my current house and may be installing a pellet stove that will distribute the heat created in the wood extension by specific conduits.

I have not yet signed with the architect and I am meeting the manager of the Eco & Logis company at the beginning of next week. This person on the phone told me about the average ratios of 1 to 600 € TTC / m² for a single-storey wood extension with a satisfactory level of finish including the concrete slab. Do you know the achievements of this company?

These ratios seem high to me and I hope to obtain ratios of the order of € 1 including tax / m² for this single storey wood extension, ie a budget of around € 200 for an extension of 48 m². Where is the truth?

Thank you in advance for your advice on the budgetary side before I get into the technique and design.

Note for bidouille23:
What is the GREBB method? Can it be applied to a timber frame extension? In the PACA region?
Thank you in advance.

[bidouille23]

SLut as much for me I do not know why I always put two B, when it takes only one, that said by searching for two minutes on the net found anyway ...


http://documents.approchepaille.fr/pdf/ ... e-greb.pdf

and in terms of the possibility of achieving it in the paca region if it works in canada it must do in paca country;) ...

In any case in Brittany it works very well;) ...

Regarding the windows, especially way has created a kind of cap or one by sun so that in summer the glazing is not subjected to the sun but that in winter the sun enters the house and heats a mass if possible. ..
So not necessarily glazing with solar protection ...

On the side, pray, it's simple, ask for several quotes ...

And to finish on the budget side, the greb mode will be without any worries the cheapest ....
Unless someone has another solution already proven for over 15 years and copied last year by a pro who patented his system which is no longer over dimensioned on the wood side but dimensioned just ... in short who says better; ) ...

[seb1000]

> Do I take risks to build a wood extension in Provence
> with a hot climate in summer and possibly cold in winter? Are there regional particularities to respect?


I isolated part of my house in ITE (3 layers: 3 x 8cm on the walls and 30 cm mini on the roof), in the Alps, 1000m above sea level, with the last layer of wood cladding (Douglas fir). with me it is quite recent so I have little perspective, but several houses are made like that in the corner.

for winter, no problem for the douglas, it will hold out. but Douglas-fir loses its brilliance with the passage of time: there are colorless tears or oils + or - eco-friendly to protect them from discoloration.

watch out for the thermal bridge: people often use metal supports to hold the insulation while plastic or wood solutions exist. for my part, by budget restriction I make small wooden spikes to maintain the insulation by crossing it in places up to half its thickness.

some info from JP.Olivia's book:

for the summer: you can incline the battens supporting the cladding by about 45 ° in order to increase the "pull" behind the Douglas fir to avoid overheating.

for rain: you can tilt the top of the siding a few more degrees outwards to facilitate the flow of rain.

[Coati84]

Thank you very much for the 2 previous posts.

I still cannot position myself. Do I really need an architect or is it more interesting to call on a company specialized in the wooden frame ideally located in 04 or 05 because they seem to me more competent and with more attractive prices.

Thank you for your remarks.

I will spend more time tonight making a post with a 1st crobar.

[Obamot]

There, the answer is clear, if you find a company with its own design office, it is better to skip the architect question "technical solutions" ...!

By cons aesthetic issue and obtaining building permits, it's not so simple! It depends on how it goes in your corner ...

The best solution will be the one that will allow you to have this sesame ... but it should go as long as you are the one holding the knife by the handle ...

[bidouille23]

Slut,

35 m² planned under construction, recently have can go up to 40 m² without a license just a declaration of work, so in terms of authorization is a detail.

You can make the plans yourself, such as at the town hall to meet the person of town planning who takes care of the real estate works and explains your idea to him he should help you in the steps which remain very simple.

As a result of which you can quite appeal to a builder osb, personally I re-advise you contact the craftsman coop nearest to you, she will tell you the name of the companies that join wood construction.

Why an artisan coop? I would say for the quality of the materials (the respect of the rate of drying of the wood for example), the fact that each craftsman is "owner" of the coop therefore ensures not to have negative feedback when at work to carry out, and craftsman before his integration must be accepted by the majority of other craftsmen already present in the coop, so in short are guarantors of the work to be done, in a way.
In short inform you do not hesitate, and do not hesitate either to go to the last client for whom the company you have chosen to work if possible, and discuss with the owners, test them forum from your corner too, where looking for opinions on the company on the internet have discovered things and also avoided disappointments thanks to modern communication ...;)

Seb for the lines, you can take half a chevron and use it as a line as a primary or secondary cross or rafters, short wood;) ...

[Coati84]

Hi,

I resume this subject because I will finally file a preliminary declaration of work concerning this wood extension by the end of the 1st quarter of 2016!

I met the consultant architect of the Luberon National Park (84) at the end of last year who follows me completely on this type of extension. Following my previous research, your reflections and the reading of JP's books. OLIVA, I will finally carry out the plans myself, consult local craftsmen and follow up on the work carried out by them from the second quarter.

Finally, my project will be as follows:
- creation of a 50 m² concrete slab located between the north facade of the house and the garage,
- implementation of a parallelepipedic extension on this slab created with wooden frame, HD rock wool insulation and exterior wood cladding,
- establishment of 2 children's bedrooms, a bathroom (Italian shower, single basin, WC), a "computer corner" space, a patio and a service entrance door on the west side of the extension,
- modification and upgrading of the wastewater evacuation network of my house following the installation of the concrete slab necessary for the wood extension.

I attach below the photos of our house on the north, west side and a 1st draft of this wooden extension.





https://www.econologie.info/share/partag ... PNrZmy.pdf

I listen to all suggestions on this project which is close to my heart and of which I will make the architect. Here are my questions:
- I hesitate in the choice of wood cladding between red-cedar and Douglas fir. What do you recommend for the region? Is the durability of the cheaper Douglas fir satisfactory?
- I hesitate between "micro-piles" or "plots and longreens" foundations. What do you recommend ? Do I have to do a soil study?
- the part where the extension will be located is currently wet. Do I have to make an insulating floor and put peripheral drains to the concrete slab?
- I wish to make a low slope roof (or terrace roof not accessible). Does this choice seem judicious? How to make the waterproofing junction with the slope of the roof of my garage including Roman mechanical tiles?
- should I make a wooden frame wall (and expansion joint) adjacent to the north wall of my house or can I get rid of it?
- what is the recommended thickness of the insulation thickness to obtain R> 3.7 m².KW? I hesitate between 3 types of insulation: HD rock wool, ISONAT, cellulose wadding. Do you have any recommendations on these insulators and the implementation of the walls?
- concerning the heating solution to be implemented, I hesitate between 3 solutions: installation of 2 electric radiators with inertia, extension of my gas central heating network by adding 2 radiators or installation of a stove to pellets in my current home. A duct currently exists near a cross wall and I should create a network returning the heat to the wood extension. What choice do you recommend?
- I will have to set up a patio to keep the natural light on the 2 windows on the north side of my house. Do you have any advice / suggestions on this solution?

Thank you in advance for your always rich advice and best wishes to you.

[raphaco]

Hello Coati,

Which comes to mind and in bulk:

You can offer you a book on timber frame construction. A few tens of euros compared to the cost of your site it will be peanuts. As you will (we are familiar with you, right?) Site monitoring, as long as you have knowledge of the general principles and the different constructive modes + vocabulary, etc.

On the Atlantic coast, douglas cladding can sometimes have blue stains (fungi, oceanic climate). You can look around your house and ask the neighbors.

A tile to do: have you thought of incorporating a low temperature heating floor? With solar? For the foundations, you have the example of the existing one and the wooden walls will be lighter than those of the house.

As on your plan, you can "free yourself from a wooden frame wall (and expansion joint) adjacent to the north wall of your house".

The rock wool insulation is not very ecological, but I know: ease of installation and price.

On your plan, the connection between office and computer / old wall is not the same as the fairer one, in my opinion of bedroom 4 / old.

A good book on MOBs!

Thank you, and happy new year to you too