Can I do without heating?

[gisier]

dedeleco, your link is very complete and I haven't read it yet.

[dedeleco]

Read carefully www.fiabitat.com and the advice they give, to find out the mistakes and advice.

Compared with my older house (1974) poorly insulated and thermal bridges, your well insulated house (insulation4 to 5 times thicker, no thermal bridge, no air leaks (double flow vmc), your heating expenditure (electric or gas) without a Canadian well should be around 400 to 500 €, in the ratio of this thickness of insulation to mine a little less.
With a Canadian well, it should require even less, but it depends on the size and depth of the Canadian well.
I think that your architect has had a more precise thermal study than my random estimate, and that therefore your Canadian well has a sufficient size to ensure an air supply at 11 to 12 ° C all winter long (15 ° C seems high for the north), because the well cools down in winter, hence the advantage of heating it to the max with the heat waves of summer). in general, the Canadian well only uses the average temperature of the earth over a year (11 to 12 ° C and not 15 ° C in my opinion in the north) and does not try to heat much more in summer than the ordinary earth under grass.
Look at the info on calculating a Canadian well on the internet, econology and reliability, to check the orders of magnitude.
In my opinion if the volume of earth heated in summer in the Canadian well is sufficient, you can spend the winter without heating.
With thermal solar panels, even inexpensive (40 ° to 50 ° C instead of 120 ° C in summer, black plate, simple pipe under basic glass plate), you can heat the earth in the Canadian well to 30 to 40 ° C instead of 18 ° to 20 ° C in summer), which will be found for the winter if the volume of heated earth is sufficient compared to the length of diffusion in 6 months in the earth (2 to 3m).
The weather forecast says tomorrow 36 ° C in Lille !! Heat to keep for the winter !!

Finally back up a wood heating, fireplace with closed insert and exchanger to circulate hot air coming from inside through ducts in the bedrooms and living room should ensure a temperature of 20 ° C, even in very cold weather.

In my secondary house better insulated (year 1990, but bought in 1999, with 10 cm of insulation, half of you, but 180m2) I can heat myself entirely with wood with a closed insert with circulation of hot air (without double vmc flow, the air comes from outside very cold) without any problem.

So you, with a much better designed house (the VMC double flow so well designed for heating with wood, is enormous), you will need almost nothing of heating with wood.
For more security, you can provide some emergency electric heaters.
Heating with pellets is one solution, but pellets are much more expensive than wood, especially if you collect dried garden plants in summer.
forums on econology on the price of pellets.
I am frightened that we do not collect more garden plants, pruning hedges, trees, etc. to heat, instead of throwing them !!

[Christophe]

The weather forecast says tomorrow 36 ° C in Lille !! Heat to keep for the winter !!

This is what we are doing, our big water buffer is @ 53.3 ° C (probe at 2m deep) ... but it is obviously not enough ... between mid October and mid November will have to light the wood stove ... at the beginning gradually after all the time ... last winter which was severe, we consumed the equivalent of 5 cubic meters.

Right now, since we have picture windows South and West, we must leave the curtains closed at noon to avoid overheating on the floor (it's gone up to 32 ° I don't know when!). .

I am frightened that we do not collect more garden plants, pruning hedges, trees, etc. to heat, instead of throwing them !!

Well personally I try to recover a maximum but we quickly see the limits of the recovery of small branch.

For example, I got a few fir-sized branches: you have thorns everywhere when it dries and when you recharge the hair ... on the other hand yes it burns well ... but not very long! The pipes / cypress ca must burn as well (smell of coniferous) ...

The storage volume is also enormous.

The ideal would be to make its pellets or briquettes at home itself but there the investment is frankly heavy ... and it already takes a lot of volume to obtain 100 kg of pellets! For a sawmill that needs heating yes, for an individual I doubt that it would be interesting ...

For branches that are more than 3 cm in diameter there is no problem, even if it is always more painful than real logs ... or briquettes!

[gisier]

Who can do a heating needs study with presentation of my plans, are there offices for that?

I did not understand how to keep the summer heat of the pc to use it in the winter.

I am not convinced for the pellet stoves, too noisy for my taste.

If I get away with 500 euros of heating in my house I sign immediately, especially in elec !!!!

Thank you for your answers.

[hic]

The weather forecast says tomorrow 36 ° C in Lille !! Heat to keep for the winter !!

Right now, since we have picture windows South and West, we must leave the curtains closed at noon to avoid overheating on the floor (it's gone up to 32 ° I don't know when!). .

hi Christophe
and a reflector for your bay windows,

a survival blanket with an airtight layer of air,
my double glazing remains at room temperature,
despite the beating sun.

25 ° at noon, but the kitchen temperature did not drop below 24 ° last night and I cooked light :-)

the other advantage is that the room remains bright.

to test a survival blanket stuck (almost airtight) by closing the window

for comfort in hot weather, see the Humidex Index! ! ! ! ! ! !

[aerialcastor]

Who can do a heating needs study with presentation of my plans, are there offices for that?

Any thermal engineering office.
It costs around 500 € for a static study.

But you could make a Ssimulation Thermal Dynamique (1500 to 2000 €) which would allow you to optimize the design in terms of solar gain and inertia.
Because there you are going to be very light at the level of inertia with a wooden frame and a screed on insulation, I hope that you have planned heavy partitions.
I’m even almost ready to bet that a STD would show that thermally screed without insulation would be more effective. Storage of winter solar gains and summer night freshness in the slab.

I did not understand how to keep the summer heat of the pc to use it in the winter.

The principle is to send hot air in the summer to the Canadian well in order to warm the earth around it. Thus in winter the air passing through the PC and injected into the house will be warmer.

[dedeleco]

fiabitat is in charge of renovations and studies and you can contact them on their site, ask for advice or opinion on other specialists?


Without complex study, with 20cm of insulation, 4 to 5 times more than at home (usual in 1974, 2cm polystyrene, double brick partition 5cm), without thermal bridge (unlike at home), with VMC double flow, without leakage drafts, double glazing, adding a mass to increase the thermal inertia (like breeze blocks in a traditional house) and keep the heat (or cool in summer) for half a day, you should have 4 to 5 times less heating costs than me, 400 to 500 € for you, otherwise there is a big blunder somewhere, or at your place, or at my house, my house is much less bad than I think and that I notice !! .
A not very powerful insert with exchanger distributing the hot air in the rooms with not strong fire should be enough, if without Canadian well.
With classic Canadian well, instead of heating from outside air at 0 ° C, you heat from 12 ° C to look at 20 ° C and therefore the energy required is divided by more than 2 (20-0) / (20-12) !! So 250 € of heating (at the rudimentary point) and by heating the Canadian well in summer (if it is big enough, more than 150m3 of soil) practically more heating except at -18 ° C outside !!

Even at home, property taxes and housing tax are more than double the heating, which reduces motivation !!

[gisier]

I’m even almost ready to bet that a STD would show that thermally screed without insulation would be more effective. Storage of winter solar gains and summer night freshness in the slab.


[quote = "gisier"]


Perhaps, I knew about the inertia problem but the insulation does not prevail? the slab will be insulated anyway above and below, for inertia .... leaves concrete !!

I must be tired, but I still haven't figured out how to "send" hot air to the well.

For the study, you mean that a person will be able to tell me: Sir, if you use a pc coupled to a double flow vmc, your heating needs will then be .... "?

Thank you

[aerialcastor]

Without complex study, with 20cm of insulation, 4 to 5 times more than at home (usual in 1974, 2cm polystyrene, double brick partition 5cm), without thermal bridge (unlike at home), with VMC double flow, without leakage drafts, double glazing, adding a mass to increase the thermal inertia (like breeze blocks in a traditional house) and keep the heat (or cool in summer) for half a day, you should have 4 to 5 times less heating expenses than me

It's still a little more complicated than that.
Just because there is twice as much insulation does not mean that there is half as much loss.
There are always thermal bridges:
- The wood frame in itself creates a thermal bridge (14% drop in performance),
-device for the frame except if sarking
-linear thermal bridge around all frames,
-as the slab is insulated from above and from below I suppose that the foundations will not be: line thermal bridge over the entire perimeter
- device for cross walls

Then if the walls are well insulated, the ventilation losses become proportionately greater (even if in absolute value they do not change).

Perhaps, I knew about the inertia problem but the insulation does not prevail?

Well it all depends on the climate ... If cold climate is better to be isolated if warm climate is better to have inertia.

For the study, you mean that a person will be able to tell me: Sir, if you use a pc coupled to a double flow vmc, your heating needs will then be .... "?

Exactly. I am not very familiar with regulatory studies, but STDs take absolutely everything into account: thermal conductivity, inertia, exchange surface, coating color, albedo, solar gain, internal gain, thermal bridge, ventilation, Canadian well, etc. . and with that we know everything we need: heating power, heating need, room by room temperature at any time of the year, ...

It is a great tool to design a house it will be a shame to do without it.

I must be tired, but I still haven't figured out how to "send" hot air to the well.

Yes or maybe we explain it badly

Imagine a pc with three air vents: one 30m from the house, one just before the house and one inside the 3 connected by the pc pipe
The soil temperature at 2m depth varies very little during the year and stabilizes at around 12 ° C.
In summer the air temperature easily reaches 30 ° C (and much more if you use solar collectors). In summer, air is circulated between the 2 outside vents. Little by little the earth will warm up.
In winter, air is passed through the mouth furthest from the house and blown inside. As the outside air is colder than the earth, this air will heat up and all the more so as the earth rises in temperature during the summer.

[dedeleco]

aerialcastor explained well, completely agree, nevertheless there is no photo between a wooden thermal bridge and that in concrete, ordinary houses of the 1970s, like mine.

Carefully read and understand the Canadian reliability well to avoid mistakes:
http://www.fiabitat.com/puits-canadien.php

It seems to me that the well with brine and exchanger, presented on fiabitat instead of air, can be coupled with solar thermal brine panels and therefore heat the soil much more strongly in summer to recover in winter (with a good control system).

A big problem is the size of the well, its depth, its length or the volume of earth heated in summer then cooled in winter
For a summer air conditioning of a few days, it does not need to be large, but to recover the heat of the summer all winter long, it must be very important not to get too cold and therefore it must store in the earth the necessary heat all winter, and for example the very exceptional 75m3 swimming pool tank in the foundations of Christophe's house is not large enough, but I do not know the level of thermal insulation of his home.
In my opinion it is necessary in the earth pipes at a mutual distance of about 50cm to 1m in a very large volume of earth (300m3 ???) at 2 or 3m deep (if the non-rocky ground allows it) volume fixed by l energy needed to heat the whole house in one winter.
This volume decreases with the temperature reached in summer in this earth!
The difficulty of this solution is in the volume of soil required, the lower the house is well insulated and low losses.
See on econology, where this problem has already been discussed with foreign internet references (German and American) with different versions of heat storage underground (network of vertical wells).