Basic rules of the automated ball burner

Heating, insulation, ventilation, VMC, cooling ... short thermal comfort. Insulation, wood energy, heat pumps but also electricity, gas or oil, VMC ... Help in choosing and implementation, problem solving, optimization, tips and tricks ...
boubka
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by boubka » 06/02/10, 13:38

Hello everyone
it's moving too much right now ... so
here are the pictures of my new variable blower and my heated oil reserve
Image
Image
Image
for oil and vegetable fat little blowing, for mineral oil a lot of blowing.
oil temperature for both 100 to 110 degrees.
air pressure 6 bar, 0.25 hole
next modification: control of the heating resistance by regulator and static relay to obtain a delta of a few degrees (at the moment with thermostat + or -10) and to keep the resistance in state.
for my mounting the oil temperature stability is critical.

and soon to install a regulator for the smoke temperature, very useful to effectively regulate my blowing and in addition to add a secu

and also 2 cliksons on and in the burner ... just in case.
to be continued...

a+
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Ptilu
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by Ptilu » 06/02/10, 14:04

Hello everyone
The subject is very interesting, but I find it difficult to grasp the operation of this very nice burner.
Do you have a link that would quench my thirst for knowledge? :P
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by gegyx » 06/02/10, 15:06

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manoria68
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by manoria68 » 26/02/10, 16:45

Hello everyone, so my conclusions:

Heating compressed air: useless
Heating the ball: useless

However, I still had a problem, it was a difficult ignition.
In fact, as my burner is large, the temperature of the indoor air is too low, and therefore even if the vaporized oil is hot, it cools in the air, and therefore is more difficult to ignite.

The solution ?
Heat the air in the nozzle (for starting) or confine more between the ball and the nozzle so that the air sucked into the nozzle is heated by the ball (but, I have a small ball) Of course, the solution of André with a tee did not put this Pb since the tee heated the air.
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by the middle » 02/04/10, 12:34

Bonjour,
Especially the future oily ball:
There is a big rule to highlight!
The oil you burn!
A mineral oil, which comes from hydraulic or other systems, will cause you few problems, if you follow all the advice of the different posts.
But a vegetable oil from kitchen or other recuperation is sneaky, clogging and ...
This vegetable oil, which when drying, becomes like sticky on contact with air, causes a lot of worries ... (for example, gradually blocking the arrival of air from the ball)
So, those who tell you, no problem, everything works well, you have to ask them which oil they use ... and for how long.
Nothing will change my mind ... oil or animal fat, not mineral oil. It's a choice.
Mineral oil, no problems, vegetable oil ... you have to be brave.
Make your choice.
NB, I have not yet tried animal fat, which must be less "clogging than vegetable oil. (Or not at all)
There are gods who are actually demons! and you have to put them back in their place.
Solutions to turn to vegetable oil recovery, it is possible, but it takes a little temerity.
A little tip, if you suspect your air circuit that runs towards the ball from clogging, inject a little fuel oil to clean the circuit ...
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by Obamot » 02/04/10, 15:40

+1, in addition to the extraordinary performance of the new oil burners. You really have to think twice about a "pragmatic" solution! Burner outlet the fumes today are around 50 ° C, which means that the chimneys can now be made of plastic ...

[EDIT:] I had asked a lot of questions to our chimney sweep heating engineer, to find out if it was worth it to try a certification in my corner. If we add to a balance sheet, in some inglorious cases, the maintenance of the system in the event of a breakdown ... for someone who works and whose job is not the job, it will not be joy. So that's where I quickly became disillusioned ...
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by the middle » 13/03/11, 10:59

Hello,
I'm starting to change my mind,
There are ways to turn with a vegetable oil full of sugars, or other waste.
But a basic rule, if a conventional central heating circulator is used is the oil temperature stability
Delta acceptable, 2 degrees.
Minimum working temperature, 50 degrees, see more.
Logic, diesel is + - 20 degrees, and again, then the oil must be much higher, to be sprayed well.
The default of vegetable oil is to plug the ball hole (in case of prolonged stop)
If you use a small nozzle, this problem disappears more or less.
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boubka
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by boubka » 13/03/11, 12:07

hello Lejuste
you say :
oil temperature stability
Delta acceptable, 2 degrees.


On my bowl I heat to + or - 1 degree or less.
I have very good stuff, regulator and static relay (ssr), it's luxury : Cheesy:
with what material do you get such precision (+ or -2 ° c) with the thermal inertia of the oil?
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by the middle » 13/03/11, 14:48

Hi, Boub
In fact, before I worked with a boiler aquastat, it was a hassle.
Now, I work with a Chinese electronic regulator, for aquarium, precision 0.5 degree. (found on EB, for 15 euros)
But hey, my oil loop turns with a one liter tank, heated by a coffee maker resistance limited to 150 watt.
And there, I am a happy man, I have no more variations of flame.
In reality, I have 1.5 degrees of variation due to hysteresis.
But it is good.
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