Heat recovery on a stove with wood (optimization)

[Matt113]

I think I had seen a French distributor but no website and delivery, I will try to find it.

edit:

here I found quickly enough on the site caframo

PCI Orbey, France Peter Cashin, President 33-3897-12667 33-3897-12662 peter@cashin-france.com

the website column is empty.

[bobono]

I answer to bring back the subject. At the exit of the closed hearth I directs them to smoke either live in the chimney or towards an old fuel oil boiler which will serve me to heat a circuit of hot water.

It is quite easy to find old oil boiler at this time and recycle it that way.

Doing a pass on smoking pipe is quite a simple washer and an axis plus the crank 1 / 4 OF TURN.

https://www.econologie.info/share/partag ... 4y3BJD.JPG

[the middle]

I answer to bring back the subject. At the exit of the closed hearth I directs them to smoke either live in the chimney or towards an old fuel oil boiler which will serve me to heat a circuit of hot water.

It's a great idea (except that I'm afraid of the fouling rate of carnaux .. )

[the middle]

I just ordered an ecofan too.
it should arrive in a few days.

does it work well?
it is to put on a godin stove that heats very well but the problem that it is ultra hot in the living room and much less hot in the rooms next door yet all the rooms are open there are no doors this There are big arcades all the way down the house, which is like a very large room, and I would like the heat to go a little further.

finally in any case I would make my comment on the usefulness of the purchase in the first cold of autumn.

And so dull, we forget his promises ???
Go, hop, to work (I think the results interest a lot of people)

[Corpse Grinder 666]

I am also a buyer of this ecofan

[Corpse Grinder 666]

no news since time?

[the middle]

Hello,
It's summer, and I invite those with a classic wood stove to take advantage of this period to improve their stove.
Now, this is 6 years that my system works, and delighted me.
To know what I'm talking about, go back to the beginning of the post, there are pictures and explanations.
In fact, I have a stove that heats up as long as there is wood in the stove, but behind it, there is a refractory brick accumulator, which is heated by the flue gases, which are normally lost .
The advantage over an air-to-air heat exchanger is that it is an accumulator that continues to gently heat the house.
This battery is a small mass po simply.
It's really profitable as a job.
do not hesitate to ask me questions.
When I pass the accumulator, the chimney temp passes to 120 degrees.
When I go through the battery, the chimney temp falls to 80 degrees.
This means that 30 degrees go into the refractory bricks, and still heat the house for 6 to 8 hours, poel off!

[jonule]

hello the same, if you're still here;
I intend to reproduce your experience, which looks very good to me from every point of view; however before going to practice I asked 2 or 3 questions;
I planned to do that:

that is to say the same principle, a block of refractory bricks, with the fumes forced down and then back to the exit.
in dark pink refractory bricks, in light pink the normal bricks (air inlet under the stove), in light blue insulating and in green ... the heat exchanger. for the lid, a refractory pottery burner plate cut out.
> have you insulated the refractory bricks from the duct and from the floor? I plan to use 3cm rock wool panels, or a refractory cement / vermiculite molding.
and above all, for the heat exchanger, copper coil:
> where have you placed it? you rolled it up on the stainless steel tubing? I do not use stainless steel tubing, which has heat to heat the ducts, and the floor in particular.
I thought to use the following exchanger, in green: a copper coil 16 diameter molded in refractory cement, do you think that it is well placed, or would it be better in the wall of the medium?

I read that it was possible to mold refractory cement loaded with shot and aluminum powder; I hope that it will compensate the dilations of the copper, maybe it must also be scrapped a little?

[the middle]

hello the same, if you're still here;
I intend to reproduce your experience, which looks very good to me from every point of view; however before going to practice I asked 2 or 3 questions;
I planned to do that:

that is to say the same principle, a block of refractory bricks, with the fumes forced down and then back to the exit.
in dark pink refractory bricks, in light pink the normal bricks (air inlet under the stove), in light blue insulating and in green ... the heat exchanger. for the lid, a refractory pottery burner plate cut out.
> have you insulated the refractory bricks from the duct and from the floor? I plan to use 3cm rock wool panels, or a refractory cement / vermiculite molding.
and above all, for the heat exchanger, copper coil:
> where have you placed it? you rolled it up on the stainless steel tubing? I do not use stainless steel tubing, which has heat to heat the ducts, and the floor in particular.
I thought to use the following exchanger, in green: a copper coil 16 diameter molded in refractory cement, do you think that it is well placed, or would it be better in the wall of the medium?

I read that it was possible to mold refractory cement loaded with shot and aluminum powder; I hope that it will compensate the dilations of the copper, maybe it must also be scrapped a little?

Hi Jonule,
On your beautiful drawings, it lacks the bypass, which allows the cold start. (it is a hole of + -10cm of diameter, with a plate which makes it possible to close it when the chimney is hot)
There are also two "mini doors" missing at the bottom of the refractory bricks, to remove and suck up the soot (on the second photo, there was only one cleaning door)
We must also add metal brushes that are used to clean the interior walls (I do this work every 15 days), and the difference in temperature of the bricks is important after each cleaning (I go up and down once or twice the brushes)
These brushes are metallic sweeping brushes, the length of which I have adapted to the system (they remain inside the brick block, with the end of the rod sticking out of the top plate (10cm))
Condensation and coil:
It is real, but I live with it.
The coil is placed, naked, inside the stainless steel tube, it's been three years that I heat my mother-in-law's room thanks to that. (It's 16mm, length, I forgot; maybe be I gave it at the start of the post)
There is a circulator, which starts, when the chimney temp is good (50Degrees?) (I noticed that once the system started by the circulator, the thermosiphon works)
Coil fouling
It is real, and requires me to clean it two or three times a winter.
If the coil is not installed in the stack gases, it will not heat.
condensation.
I am unable to say if it comes from the coil, or from the lowering of the chimney temperature.
In summary, the refractory bricks, yes, but the coil, be careful.
Please also note, my chimney is double walled, insulated.
I don't know how it goes in a normal brick chimney?
Ha yes, on the ground? I simply cemented refractory bricks
Here, I think I said everything
Good work

[the middle]

hello the same, if you're still here;
I intend to reproduce your experience, which looks very good to me from every point of view; however before going to practice I asked 2 or 3 questions;
I planned to do that:

that is to say the same principle, a block of refractory bricks, with the fumes forced down and then back to the exit.
in dark pink refractory bricks, in light pink the normal bricks (air inlet under the stove), in light blue insulating and in green ... the heat exchanger. for the lid, a refractory pottery burner plate cut out.
> have you insulated the refractory bricks from the duct and from the floor? I plan to use 3cm rock wool panels, or a refractory cement / vermiculite molding.
and above all, for the heat exchanger, copper coil:
> where have you placed it? you rolled it up on the stainless steel tubing? I do not use stainless steel tubing, which has heat to heat the ducts, and the floor in particular.
I thought to use the following exchanger, in green: a copper coil 16 diameter molded in refractory cement, do you think that it is well placed, or would it be better in the wall of the medium?

I read that it was possible to mold refractory cement loaded with shot and aluminum powder; I hope that it will compensate the dilations of the copper, maybe it must also be scrapped a little?

Hi Jonule,
On your beautiful drawings, it lacks the bypass, which allows the cold start. (it is a hole of + -10cm of diameter, with a plate which makes it possible to close it when the chimney is hot)
There are also two "mini doors" missing at the bottom of the refractory bricks, to remove and suck up the soot (on the second photo, there was only one cleaning door)
We must also add metal brushes that are used to clean the interior walls (I do this work every 15 days), and the difference in temperature of the bricks is important after each cleaning (I go up and down once or twice the brushes)
These brushes are metallic sweeping brushes, the length of which I have adapted to the system (they remain inside the brick block, with the end of the rod sticking out of the top plate (10cm))
Condensation and coil:
It is real, but I live with it.
The coil is placed, naked, inside the stainless steel tube, it's been three years that I heat my mother-in-law's room thanks to that. (It's 16mm, length, I forgot; maybe be I gave it at the start of the post)
There is a circulator, which starts, when the chimney temp is good (50Degrees?) (I noticed that once the system started by the circulator, the thermosiphon works)
Coil fouling
It is real, and requires me to clean it two or three times a winter.
If the coil is not installed in the stack gases, it will not heat.
condensation.
I am unable to say if it comes from the coil, or from the lowering of the chimney temperature.
In summary, the refractory bricks, yes, but the coil, be careful.
Please also note, my chimney is double walled, insulated.
I don't know how it goes in a normal brick chimney?
Ha yes, on the ground? I simply cemented refractory bricks
Here, I think I said everything
Good work