one last thing for the start-up / regulation of the circulator, you have to mount a thermostat in the flue, I have one that goes from 0 to 120 ° C, what will happen if it exceeds 120 ° C ? deterioration of the thermostat bulb?
even in a "thimble"?
Heat recovery on a stove with wood (optimization)
- chatelot16
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if you exceed its maximum temperature it risks farting ... you should see its documentation: the tolerable temperature and always a little higher than the maximum setting temperature
takes a bulb thermostat provided for stove oven: that sufort a higher temperature ... but unfortunately not very precise at low temperature
I prefer electronics: pt100 resistance as sensor, we find a few euros that support 500 ° C
takes a bulb thermostat provided for stove oven: that sufort a higher temperature ... but unfortunately not very precise at low temperature
I prefer electronics: pt100 resistance as sensor, we find a few euros that support 500 ° C
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- I learn econologic
- posts: 15
- Registration: 09/04/13, 16:47
Hello,
Okay, I'm going in my turn to study a calorie recuperator like the one behind this post, simple without a water circuit.
I have a house of 2 floors, 90m² + an extension without floor with the bathroom.
A Jotul F500 stove recovered from LBC, the duct is new in double skin stainless steel from the floor.
It is an old house, wooden floor + parquet on the floor, the insulation is average, 40cm brick walls + plaster + BA13 inside, of course.
The ceiling height is between 3 and 3m50.
The windows have of course been changed.
The stove is almost central, next to an old door, I condemned the bottom, to make a storage for the wood and left open the top so that the hot air circulates and goes up the stairs to heat the floor.
Some figures to better read the photos below:
the stove at a rear outlet.
The duct is 27,5 cm from the wall and 110 cm from the right wall
Is it a problem to make a heat recovery unit that would circulate the hot air to the right at 90 ° or is it a big problem?
If yes on what max length, 110cm is too much?
I would only make one thickness of bricks, by refractory forcing if I understood correctly.
Of course I would like to gain inertia for the night, for example among other things, the room is large and cold in the morning.
Tell me what you think !
Thank you in advance
Pat
Okay, I'm going in my turn to study a calorie recuperator like the one behind this post, simple without a water circuit.
I have a house of 2 floors, 90m² + an extension without floor with the bathroom.
A Jotul F500 stove recovered from LBC, the duct is new in double skin stainless steel from the floor.
It is an old house, wooden floor + parquet on the floor, the insulation is average, 40cm brick walls + plaster + BA13 inside, of course.
The ceiling height is between 3 and 3m50.
The windows have of course been changed.
The stove is almost central, next to an old door, I condemned the bottom, to make a storage for the wood and left open the top so that the hot air circulates and goes up the stairs to heat the floor.
Some figures to better read the photos below:
the stove at a rear outlet.
The duct is 27,5 cm from the wall and 110 cm from the right wall
Is it a problem to make a heat recovery unit that would circulate the hot air to the right at 90 ° or is it a big problem?
If yes on what max length, 110cm is too much?
I would only make one thickness of bricks, by refractory forcing if I understood correctly.
Of course I would like to gain inertia for the night, for example among other things, the room is large and cold in the morning.
Tell me what you think !
Thank you in advance
Pat
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- I learn econologic
- posts: 15
- Registration: 09/04/13, 16:47
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