bedouin wrote:Now -2 C outside, snow.
But since 20:00 the valve closing pictogram is permanently displayed.
and the little click of the TEM at each unnecessary closing impulse?
Xian wrote:Not clear my post, sorry
it's simple and normal: according to your heating curve (water law), and the setting of your limit reduced, the computer concludes that there is no need for heating.
It then indicates that the "target" leaving temperature is 8 °.
I also have this figure 8 in these cases (pelletronic regulation). Arbitrary value or that corresponds to the minimum temperature to stay frost-free, that I don't know.
If the temperature in your house is below 18 ° in reduced mode, you will have to raise your limit and reduce it until the td goes up.
clearer?
manet42 wrote:Bonjour.
When a circuit does not need to be used (instructions reached to close) the regulator indicates 8 ° C, this is the limit of frost protection.
So normal to see this 8 ° when you have 21 ° and you ask for 18 °, there is no longer any need to heat! TD = then 8 °.
Did67 wrote:On "climatic" regulations (regulation according to the temperature external), the heating limits are a powerful parameter, unfortunately often overlooked!
It is the external temperature above which the boiler shuts down completely, including circulators and everything ... It is therefore a powerful saving factor ...
There are two :
- the heating limit in comfort mode: external temperature above which everything cuts out during the comfort periods (day): ex = 20 °; if it is more than 20 ° outside, no need to heat; everything cuts
- the heating limit in reduced mode (lowered; night) = external temperature at night, above which we consider that we are just as well under the duvet without heating; I must be at + 5 °; therefore if it is less than + 5 °, the boiler starts up again; So in mild period, it is cut until 1 or 2 or 3 am, then the falling temp, it goes into "lowered" mode ...
But of course, this is to be set according to the house and in particular to what is called thermal inertia (the "resistance" of the house to temperature variations, which largely depends on the insulation - internal or external - and slabs / partitions masses - plasterboard = low inertia; walls = high inertia).
In a weakly inertial house (plasterboard + internal insulation or wood frame), the internal temperature drops quickly; it will have to be "supported" by setting a fairly high heating limit in reduced mode ...
Personally, I prefer to "pull" as low as possible for the limit in reduced mode, even if it means restarting "comfort" mode a little earlier ... Once under the duvet, we adapt the thickness according to the winter and we sleep so well ... On the other hand, being cautious, I want it to be hot when you get up. So I go, with heated floors, in comfort mode from 4 am! With radiators, I think we can try with 1/2 hour to 1 hour in advance ...
Everyone must experiment and find their limit. The regulation of a heating is always a matter of compromise between consumption and comfort. For everyone, the compromise is between two extremes:
a) spend nothing / do not heat and be very very cold ...
b) always be warm in a tropical atmosphere / spend a lot more ...
My experience is that it also takes a lot of pedagogy to arrive at a level of consciousness which means that a small gap is accepted by all! Otherwise it's: "With your damn system, it's never hot!". And we have to push the parameters up where, sometimes, a sweater, a blanket in front of the TV or a slightly thicker duvet would do just as well ...
Back to "Heating, insulation, ventilation, VMC, cooling ..."
Users browsing this forum : Majestic-12 [Bot] and 433 guests