Another regulation of central heating

[the middle]

Hello,
Not easy to find the right title for this topic.
For 10 years, I have been heating myself with wood, and when the house temp drops below 18 ° C, the central heating starts.
But two things have changed, the winters are getting colder, and two women now live with me (including a granny)
Quickly, there were complaints, the cause: a feeling of cold in this old poorly insulated house (the radiators are once hot, once cold)
So when it freezes, I set the temperature of the boiler water to + -35 ° c, and I put the room thermostat at 22 ° C. (22 pcq the room thermostat is not far wood stove)
In this configuration, my radiators are always lukewarm, the boiler turns little, and the women have found a smile.
But I wonder if it's good for the boiler, which normally rotates at 60 ° C ...

[loop]

Hi Lejuste,

Operating its radiator circuit at low temperature is a good idea, both for comfort and to improve the overall performance of the installation.
If 35 ° is enough to maintain a good room temperature, that's a pretty good sign, but I think it's only valid in addition to the stove.

On the other hand, you are right to worry about the boiler, because with relatively cold water permanently in the heating body, the dew point is certainly not very far when the burner is operating.
You should check the inside of the heater and see if there are any signs of premature aging.

Depending on the boiler models, condensation will be more or less significant quantitatively, and more or less detrimental to the life of the boiler.
The boilers most sensitive to this phenomenon are oil-fired steel boilers.
Fuel oil = acid condensates because sulfur is released during fuel oil combustion.

Steel = poor resistance to acid condensates (cast iron is better)

For wall gas models, I don't know.

For information, if the boiler also does the DHW, we rather maintain a temperature of the "primary" circuit at 70-80 ° C.

In your case (heating alone I presume) we add a 3 or 4 way mixing valve to obtain a low temperature on the radiator side, and a "reasonable" temperature on the boiler side (say 50 ° C at least)

A+

Gérald

[the middle]

In your case (heating only I suppose) we add a 3-way mixing valve to obtain a low temperature on the radiator side, and a "reasonable" temperature on the boiler side (say 50 ° C at least)

Good idea, thank you Gérald.

[the middle]

In your case (heating only I suppose) we add a 3-way mixing valve to obtain a low temperature on the radiator side, and a "reasonable" temperature on the boiler side (say 50 ° C at least)

Good idea, thank you Gérald.

And to push the plug further, I would like the room thermostat to regulate the water temperature according to the ambient temperature, instead of doing on-of on the boiler.
Bah! it's not too complicated to do.

[Did67]

Same opinion as looping.

1) Yes, operating a boiler that is not a condensing boiler at less than 55 ° is, sooner or later, going towards corrosion of the boiler and ... its death!

2) Yes, the solution: make your boiler oscillate between 60 and 75 completely independent of your heating circuit. It is a "reserve" of hot water.

3) Yes, install a motorized 3-way valve ideally controlled by an external probe via regulation.

Depending on the outside temp, the regulator will send the water to your heating at just the temp it takes to compensate for the losses in the house. It can be 35 ° or 45 ° or 55 °. It calculates permanently.

4) Keep the room sensor: if you heat with your stove, this sensor will inform the boiler that the desired temp is reached and lower the starting temp and the boiler will not work for nothing. It will NOT act on the boiler. It will modify the calculation of the regulation. If it is warm enough, the radiators will be less hot.

This system is NOT an "all or ren" system, but a permanent regulation ...

[Aumicron]

Glad to read you again lejuste.

If you use thermostatic valves on the radiators, you can leave the water at 60 ° and keep a good impression of heat given by the radiators.