Appearance of wet spots on my placo
aerialcastor wrote:The pretty insulation
The thermal bridge is one thing ....
The "air gap" between the insulation and the furs is another.
When there are two very close furs as in the photo
(the first two) the air passes between the insulation and the placo.
It is absolutely necessary to insulate the ends of fur that protrude and make it airtight.
this is how I would do it cheaply:
Thank you for your superb contribution!
it's a very good idea.
Thank you all for participating in this post ;-)
0 x
- Lietseu
- Econologue expert
- posts: 2327
- Registration: 06/04/07, 06:33
- Location: Antwerp Belgium, Skype lietseu1
- x 3
Well ... er ... as usual, we will have learned something more !!!
That galvanized steel profiles can be treated as "furs" leaves me speechless!
hi, hi, hi !!!! A fur extension will bring you a little extra freshness in summer
Stupid valve, but it's fun to mess around from time to time
Mriaoooouuu, brrrrrrrrrrr
here I am with a cat in my throat...
That galvanized steel profiles can be treated as "furs" leaves me speechless!
hi, hi, hi !!!! A fur extension will bring you a little extra freshness in summer
Stupid valve, but it's fun to mess around from time to time
Mriaoooouuu, brrrrrrrrrrr
here I am with a cat in my throat...
0 x
By removing Human Nature, he was far from his nature! Lietseu
"The power of love, must be stronger than the love of power" contemporary Lie Tzu?
One sees clearly only with the heart, the essential is invisible to the eyes ...
"The power of love, must be stronger than the love of power" contemporary Lie Tzu?
One sees clearly only with the heart, the essential is invisible to the eyes ...
The conductivity of the steel profiles is to be calculated with their section which is small given the thickness less than the mm and 5cm in width, ie 5cm2, much less than the section of the free spaces between glass wool and plasterboard (approximately 2cm by 50cm, i.e. 100cm2) or a section ratio of at least 200, greater than the conductivity ratio of steel (46) to that of air with significant thermal convection, but less than the ratio of conductivity of steel relative to l air still (1300) and therefore first block the passage of cold air between the glass wool and the plasterboard and then if successful, isolate the ends of the profiles with glass wool.
It is possible to put double-sided tape against the plasterboard and stick the vapor barrier against the plasterboard ????
It is possible to put double-sided tape against the plasterboard and stick the vapor barrier against the plasterboard ????
0 x
-
- Econologue expert
- posts: 4075
- Registration: 12/01/07, 08:18
- x 4
Hello,
I have a bit of the same problem in my poorly heated room.
Problem I didn't have before ...
But an incident happened this year, and I have to check:
This year I had a hornet's nest in the area that became humid.
I just killed the nest with insecticide, but I did not dismantle anything.
It may also be a cause ...
I have a bit of the same problem in my poorly heated room.
Problem I didn't have before ...
But an incident happened this year, and I have to check:
This year I had a hornet's nest in the area that became humid.
I just killed the nest with insecticide, but I did not dismantle anything.
It may also be a cause ...
0 x
Man is by nature a political animal (Aristotle)
-
- Moderator
- posts: 79323
- Registration: 10/02/03, 14:06
- Location: Greenhouse planet
- x 11042
aerialcastor wrote:this is how I would do it cheaply:
Thanks for the diagram, this is exactly the method of fixing that I recommended
On the other hand on your sight B you advise in addition, to stuff insulation in the air space.
Is it really useful because the insulation maintained by the beam will also block this air gap? No?
0 x
Do a image search or an text search - Netiquette of forum
-
- Grand Econologue
- posts: 865
- Registration: 10/05/09, 16:39
- x 21
stuff insulation in the air gap Is it really useful because the insulation maintained by the beam will also clog this air gap? No?
Convection in an enclosed space (or rather closed at the bottom but not inaccessible at the top) is sufficient to cool effectively (see double glazing where the space between glass slides should not exceed 0,5 cm to block natural convection due to the gradient of T) and therefore it is better to close this space by tacking and sticking the glass wool with a stick after having put blockages at the exit upwards pushed with a stick.
0 x
-
- Grand Econologue
- posts: 865
- Registration: 10/05/09, 16:39
- x 21
moby25 wrote:I don't think it will take 20 minutes, we don't necessarily see it in the photo, but access is difficult.
I was only talking to plug the air gap. I do not know if it's clear.
But tell yourself that the longer you put in, the more you will have the feeling of accomplishment.
0 x
Save a tree, eat a beaver.
It is no use to succeed in life, what it takes is to miss his death.
It is no use to succeed in life, what it takes is to miss his death.
Back to "Heating, insulation, ventilation, VMC, cooling ..."
Who is online ?
Users browsing this forum : Google Adsense [Bot] and 269 guests