Hello everyone
In complete renovation, concerned about an effective insulation, I allow myself to ask you for a success of my site.
First question: GR32 wool seems to me a good compromise between insulation thickness and thermal resistance, can I use it on all surfaces, especially in the attic so as not to decrease on the rooms? Besides, why not use it for all the rooms because it has the best performance compared to isoconfort?
Second question: I plan to use the vario duplex membrane for airtightness, should I remove the kraft vapor barrier? and should i leave an air space?
Third question: On the ground floor, a firm hearth heats the room, I also plan to put the air-tight membrane on all the walls, would it be possible for this membrane to be reinforced or in aluminum, so that 'it reflects the rays and that it supports the heat of the fireplace on the ceiling, that is to say 80 °.
Fourth question:
RT 2005 requires thermal resistance eg on walls of R 3.15. Let's say that I have a terracotta brick wall, and that I put only 75mm of GR32 wool plus vario duplex, and plasterboard walls. So I get 0.6 R (red brick wall) 2.35 insulation + air space between vario duplex plus plasterboard, (I therefore have an R of 2.95 "without counting plasterboard and airtightness.
Is my calculation correct?
And my last question, should the electrical sheaths pass between the walls and insulation! between insulator and mebrane! or menbrane and the placo?
Thank you for the appreciation and the participation in my project.
Anthony
cordially
Wool insulation Gr32 plus vario duplex
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- Grand Econologue
- posts: 865
- Registration: 10/05/09, 16:39
- x 21
I do not advise you to put glass wool. In 3 or 4 years it will be packed and will not isolate anything.
Roll insulation cannot be used to insulate walls. the insulation does not hold and goes down what it does that at the top of the walls there is no more insulation. Signs must be used.
You don't have to remove the vaporizer. There is no need for an air knife.
The steam brake you are going to put on must be taped (with the right tape) between the ugly ones.
For electrical ducts, there are several ways to do it.
Personally I always pass them between the steam brake and the placo so that the steam brake is never pierced, but we lose a little space because it requires a technical vacuum.
There is also the possibility of passing the sheaths through the insulation, but in this case each time the sheath passes through the steam brake, use a sleeve pass. It is rather restrictive.
Roll insulation cannot be used to insulate walls. the insulation does not hold and goes down what it does that at the top of the walls there is no more insulation. Signs must be used.
You don't have to remove the vaporizer. There is no need for an air knife.
The steam brake you are going to put on must be taped (with the right tape) between the ugly ones.
For electrical ducts, there are several ways to do it.
Personally I always pass them between the steam brake and the placo so that the steam brake is never pierced, but we lose a little space because it requires a technical vacuum.
There is also the possibility of passing the sheaths through the insulation, but in this case each time the sheath passes through the steam brake, use a sleeve pass. It is rather restrictive.
0 x
Save a tree, eat a beaver.
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It is no use to succeed in life, what it takes is to miss his death.
-
- Grand Econologue
- posts: 1155
- Registration: 21/06/09, 01:02
- Location: Britain BZH powaaa
- x 2
Hello ,
the Gr32 are rigid sowing panels;).
so better than the rolls (personally I prefer cellulose or cotton wadding or wood wool).
in your thermal resistance calculation you forgot the placo;) otherwise it's good.
Small problem it is no longer RT 2005 but RT 2012 that must be followed;).
As for the craft, do not remove it but tear it up so that it lets the vapor pass without slowing it down, if you remove it you will remove pieces of wool with it.
put on gloves and a mask when you work the LDV the fibers are of the same nature as that of asbestos, they are micro files just 8 times larger than those of asbestos.
you will find more detail here on your insulation and what is required, but a tip the more you isolate the less you heat so favor the heating insulation at the expense level ...
https://www.econologie.com/forums/besoin-de- ... 11584.html
the Gr32 are rigid sowing panels;).
so better than the rolls (personally I prefer cellulose or cotton wadding or wood wool).
in your thermal resistance calculation you forgot the placo;) otherwise it's good.
Small problem it is no longer RT 2005 but RT 2012 that must be followed;).
As for the craft, do not remove it but tear it up so that it lets the vapor pass without slowing it down, if you remove it you will remove pieces of wool with it.
put on gloves and a mask when you work the LDV the fibers are of the same nature as that of asbestos, they are micro files just 8 times larger than those of asbestos.
you will find more detail here on your insulation and what is required, but a tip the more you isolate the less you heat so favor the heating insulation at the expense level ...
https://www.econologie.com/forums/besoin-de- ... 11584.html
0 x
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