Wall corner insulation with glass wool

[bidouille23]

Dedelco, well we can take the bet that it will hold;) without problem experience approving testing and checking the wind with us it is 60% of the time I live 10 km from the coast, so we little gusts at 100 kilometer an hour it doesn't really bother us, except for boating at it's just a little too mdrrrr.
a foirce 5 to 6 you delirious serious especially in board lol. here know the wind, that's why we put armed windbreaks and that we have no overhang of you so to speak just the gutters that exceed .

Obamot yeah ok, there's a crappy tip you put your finger on it lol, the important thing I told you a little is carrying the bottle as long as there is drunkenness (that's a word of Breton or I don't know) lol
It is not beautiful can be but it is sure that it is airtight around the sheath.

THE concern for Swiss detail (this is far from being a defect and we should all be contaminated for that would do us good) so a thousand excuses for having shocked your sight;), I would do better the next time I promised

[dedeleco]

And radon looks unknown !!!

[Alain G]

For the under slopes, the rain screen under the tiles is hs and the roofers will intervene "during the year" to change it.
To protect my insulation, under the rafters and between the purlins, I am going to put a well glued and airtight PV. Under this PV, 25 cm of LdV then re PV then air gap then BA13.
I saw with the roofers, they will put an OSB on the rafters, then a rain screen then battens then tiles.
They assured me that it is airtight.
So, between the OSB and my PV under roof, there will be a space the thickness of the rafters, that is to say 10 cm.
Is that a cold roof?

Your roofer offers you the right choice, a sign of serious consideration!

[Alain G]

Hello ,


OSB ???? what density ?? and suddenly good courage to find the permeance according to the a priori signs there would be waterproof and less waterproof, Alain M CANADIn ti you must be able to help us on this one the osb it comes from you or from your neighbors amerloc;) right?

two PV ???? you did not listen well we tell you to put only one pv sinnon you are not going at all promotes the migration of water and water vapor, it should even be condensed if all is well;).

In order from inside to outside:

BA or FERMACELL it is fire resistant 30min the plate of 12.5, 15min plasterboard ba 13, it is heavy so sound-absorbing as desired for you it is great, it is directly "paintable" without undercoat and finally the seal no tape to do (as much to say that the dif of the starting price you find it on the bands and the paint;).

so behind the lining, against slats

vapor barrier or vapor barrier,

secondary frame (in the photos are the rails),

primary framework (in my case, the trusses or the battens which form the boxes with the lines)


and therefore insulation behind the steam brake and if there is craft (which there will be no doubt) you put a cutter blow to create ventilation hisoitre that the active steam brake is the one you paused and not the craft;).


If you redo your rain shield in the order of a rain shield against batten or batten or "osb" more expensive than battens for tiles (well I imagine now I am not your roofer, I did not know this technique, for the zinc yes but not for the tiles I will look at it more ready for my culture thank you ) .

Alain it's good that you tell me about your brick walls because I have a concrete gable and I count (be careful this is experiemental fred lol) let the holes between the breeze blocks see to redo some, so anyway put the vapor barrier together with all the other walls.

Knowing that on the outside of the gable there will be exterior insulation with a nice vertical cladding with overlap (in Douglas of course) it's pretty and cheap and not boring and it works well (here in Brittany anyway lol).
What makes that there will normally be migration of the vapor from the interior to the exterior which you think, and what do you think of elsewhere, in any case it is a gable to bring back in concrete? I find a viable and lasting solution arff.

Verdes links the definition (it may not be clear since it's me who gave it lol I understand)

so the cold roof the air would pass under your os to ventilate the bottom of the farmhouse,
in a warm roof at the bottom of the farmhouses you have the rain barrier film;)
it is clearer ?? do not be at worst i will make a drawing.

and then a microperfore pv on an OSB can be waterproof I don't really see the thing there ????

do a drawing because there is something wrong i think serious

see you

Hi Bidouille!

I have a little trouble understanding you but I succeed in rummaging a little!

The OSB is available perforated or not, but in the case of Verdes, it applies a rain screen on it, therefore perfpré or not changes nothing!

Regarding the wall that forms the gable, if I understand you want to cover it from the outside?

The exterior wall must always breathe between the insulation and the stone or brick except that if you add a facing on this wall and especially with insulation, there will be a thermal bridge by the stone which is by no means desired, ideal is that it breathes between the stone and the interior insulation by adding holes in the bottom of the wall and letting the air come out from the top under the roof.
see you [/ quote]

[green]

Here is the drawing, I hope it's more telling.


Regarding the OSB of 10 and the PV posed by the roofer, I'm not in the game so I trust, but I noticed that all do it like that here, maybe to protect the OSB?
When I say by air or by vapor, it is a film which prevents moisture from entering the insulation, then one or the other of the terms .....
Regarding the space between the OSB and my upper air, in the thickness of the rafters, there is no air circulation since it will be sealed above by the OSB and below by my superior air.
My superior air is only there because the roofer cannot intervene before Saint Glinglin and I don't want to see my LdV become like the one I just removed (lined with leaves and douglas, bird's nest, packed by the wind and floats in only 2 years ....) when he goes to remove the tiles, I tell him to tear it up?
If you have any questions, I'm all ears.
Thank you

[Alain G]

Obamot

Ok, same as for Minérgie-P

The norm obliges a VCM but the double flow is not obligatory, on the Novoclimat yes!

[Alain G]

Here is the drawing, I hope it's more telling.


Regarding the OSB of 10 and the PV posed by the roofer, I'm not in the game so I trust, but I noticed that all do it like that here, maybe to protect the OSB?
When I say by air or by vapor, it is a film which prevents moisture from entering the insulation, then one or the other of the terms .....
Regarding the space between the OSB and my upper air, in the thickness of the rafters, there is no air circulation since it will be sealed above by the OSB and below by my superior air.
My superior air is only there because the roofer cannot intervene before Saint Glinglin and I don't want to see my LdV become like the one I just removed (lined with leaves and douglas, bird's nest, packed by the wind and floats in only 2 years ....) when he goes to remove the tiles, I tell him to tear it up?
If you have any questions, I'm all ears.
Thank you

Hi Verdes!

Between the OSB and the air barrier there must absolutely be an air space, as small as it is, the heat of the sun will transfer under the tile and overheat everything below to degrade it much faster and l 'OSB will deform under the heat, ditto for the cold which will form condensation under the OSB!

[green]

I watch tomorrow what kind of film is this, but it is placed directly on the OSB.
Thank you

[Alain G]

I'm talking about air circulation below the OSB and over the air barrier as in the blue image (the arrow).

The rain shield is placed directly on the OSB.

[dedeleco]

Little ecological question on pseudo agglos:

OSB (Oriented Strand Board) are panels made up of thin strips oriented in 3 layers crossed with each other, glued together by pressure and high temperature usinga melamine urea formaldehyde glue ...
The pieces of wood are glued with urea-formaldehyde (UF), melamine-formaldehyde (MF) or phenol-formaldehyde (PF) resins and then form the mattress.
there are risks of exposure to formaldehyde which can have health effects.
La current admissible exposure value in air is 2 ppm,
exposure ceiling value (i.e. a value that should never be
exceeded for any duration whatsoever). It's about a
substance whose exposure must be minimized and whose
recirculation is prohibited ....
In case of occupational exposure for several years,
formaldehyde has been related to nasopharyngeal cancer. The center
cancer research agency has classified it as a substance
carcinogenic to humans since June 2004.
However when cutting the panel it can happen that the cutting tool is forced and therefore heat the wood and resins (blackening) which will cause fumes which are very harmful in the event of inhalations from where the wearing of protective mask.

.

http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Industrie_du_bois
http://www.irsst.qc.ca/media/documents/ ... G1-471.pdf
http://www.reptiles-zoo.com/t10184-la-chronique-du-bois
http://www.panofrance.fr/met.Panneaux_T ... es_MDF.php

View:
http://la.maison.empoisonnee.pagesperso-orange.fr/
http://la.maison.empoisonnee.pagesperso ... .sante.htm

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Melamine_resin
http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aminoplaste
http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Industrie_du_bois

Considering the standards which find normal to breathe traces of these products, it is good not to trust them too much and to avoid the agglos some are their OSB name to camouflage their true nature !!
I think it's more dangerous than glass wool.
And think carefully if they are useful to the point of filling a house.
The standards found normal traces of asbestos for a century, and we would continue to have it, if it did not lead to a disease so typical that it is impossible to discuss, instead of the armada of cancers whose cause is completely unidentifiable among another armada of products dangerous of everyday life !!

So think carefully with common sense !!!
Put your nose on it, and if you feel a little formaldehyde (less than ppm is enough) do not use !!!

Otherwise listen carefully to Alain.