Insert that does not heat the house

[PITMIX]

Hello
In my insert you have to put 3buches at the same time because the focus is large. When the fire is pulling well it is necessary to close the shutter of the top, on the evacuation pipe. When it is closed there remains 1 / 4 of the duct which is not obstructed. The fire becomes soft and the heat goes up very quickly in my living room 50m2 in L like you.
So that the fire does not choke it is necessary to leave open the ashtray on some millimeters to see 1cm. I do not have a low flap.
So you have 10 kw for 75m2 it's more than enough even if it's badly isolated.

[vegaman]

Thank you you reassure me a little. The problem is that I can not adjust the flap (baffle) from the top during operation. I'll let you know tomorrow when I made this adjustment.

Like me, can you just put your hand in front of the window?

[PITMIX]

Why can not you act on the chicane at the top? Oops I just saw the .notice the setting is in focus. Galley...
Once the fire has started, the glass remains warm. If you put your hand on it is that everything goes in the conduit you have too much draw. Normally above the fireplace under the duct there is a fixed baffle to dampen the heat. But considering the technology of your chimney the fan can also cool the windows. You tried not to ventilate?

[vegaman]

no I can not put my hand directly on the glass, but at 1cm of the glass. Normally I could not do that? I have already done the test in other people and even 1m we feel the heat, the 50 cm we do not feel much.

For my quibble I do not know how to adjust during operation. My installer will come and I'll ask him.

For the fan you speak of the one who expels the air to the outside or the one who sweeps the window?

[SixK]

the same here, 3 logs for starting the insert, then log by log.
I think you do not load enough wood!

on average 3 has 4 logs per evening from 18h30 to 22h.

19,5 ° C with heating, then between 20 and 22 ° C with the insert. (thermometer placed on the chimney beam at about 1.5 m from the floor)

there is no air passage between your room and the exit of the chimney between the 2 tubes? if so, all the heat goes into the chimney. you have an outside air intake for your insert, otherwise, all the heat is sucked by the insert, but you should still have radiation.

good at the same time heating an uninsulated home .... the rule of thumb invest in insulation rather than heating! ;)

SixK

[dirk pitt]

. When the fire is pulling well it is necessary to close the shutter of the top, on the evacuation pipe. When it is closed there remains 1 / 4 of the duct which is not obstructed. .

stopping the 23 nov 79 prohibits the registers and keys on the smoke evacuation ducts downstream of the fireplace.
tolerance is granted for previous foci.
since then, all modern fireplaces regulate combustion by intake air only.
it is true that on a chimney that has too much draft, it was very convenient to regulate downstream so as not to have too much depression at home, but beware, there have been too many accidents with CO. I urge all users of fireplaces, inserts, stoves to equip themselves with a CO detector. it can save your life and that of your family. CO is odorless and kills you while you sleep.

[Pascalou]

I have enough experience in wood heating, and the uncertainty is double the yield of the open hearth (about 20%, the rest goes to the conduit!) A recent hair comes to 60 , 70%. an old hair never exceeds 50%, but it's always better than the uncertainty! The only solution to improve the efficiency of uncertainty is a good heat recovery. Either air or water. Look at this link, it sells good exchanger: http://www.bouilleur.fr/produits.html. and there you will heat your apart with 3 logs!

[Ahmed]

On a flue that has too much draft, it is possible to install a draft regulator ...

[Janic]

Hello vegaman
it is not possible to compare a radiator heater with an insert, the heat diffusion system is completely different: the radiators are near the walls and warm the cold air that radiates from them and thus improve the diffusion in the room and, omportant, the feeling of being well. The insert as the chimneys is located on a point of the room and away from the walls except one.
So measure the temperature at 50 cm of each wall, at 20 cm from the floor and ceiling and at the center of the room. If the difference is important it is actually the insulation of cold walls, if the temperature is average, it may be the sensation of hot currents that lick the cold ceiling and fall on the shoulders like a freeze cap. Simple solution: insulate the ceiling from the inside. Glass wool does not prevent cold ceilings; it limits, at most, a loss of heat.
If it's possible take, actually as advised, fresh air outside or coming from the basement if you have one.

[Gaston]

A note in passing (independent of installation and insulation issues): An 10 kW stove with good performance operating at maximum power during 3h30 must consume approximately 10 kg of dry wood.


If you consume less (3 or 4 logs, it seems to me to do less?), Your stove is (also?) Restricted by the lack of fuel.