Hello
I would like to know how to calculate the number of turns to be wound (copper) to create a heating resistance which works in 220volts
the goal would be to create a preheater on the injection line of an oil burner to burn oil
I already realize a winding which works very well under 12 volts,
the goal would be to remove the transformer to facilitate and reduce the transformation neck of a classic oil burner
How to calculate a copper heating resistor ?!
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Uh I'm not sure that copper is the best material to make a heating resistance since it is precisely one of the best conductor. It is therefore one of the worst materials for making resistance ...
Otherwise the method is quite simple I think:
U = R * I
P=U*I
P=R*I²
So just measure R to get the power dissipated ...
In your place I would rather buy a heating "wire" which is given for X Watts / m linear ...
Otherwise the method is quite simple I think:
U = R * I
P=U*I
P=R*I²
So just measure R to get the power dissipated ...
In your place I would rather buy a heating "wire" which is given for X Watts / m linear ...
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precisely the copper wire is very good because it is insulated and can be wound directly on steel tube
the high number of turns allows the heating to be distributed over great lengths;
thank you for your formulas
the high number of turns allows the heating to be distributed over great lengths;
thank you for your formulas
Last edited by the boulle the 22 / 04 / 09, 20: 48, 1 edited once.
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In recupe I do not know too much ... but new it costs between 10 and 15 € ... it's 240V directly I think ...
I believe but I am not sure that we can even cut it according to the desired power
There are sellers of oil kits who sell them I believe ...
I believe but I am not sure that we can even cut it according to the desired power
There are sellers of oil kits who sell them I believe ...
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- chatelot16
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copper is not the best material for resistance but it works, so in some cases it's not that bad
lre problem is the quality of the isolation if it overheats: in 12v you do not risk anything, in 220v it is less on
the higher the tension, the greater the length of the wire will be very fine: the thermal contact with the part to be heated will be bad and the wire will overheat before the part is hot
it is therefore necessary to distribute the heating resistance over a long length of pipes: in the photo it seems a little short
lre problem is the quality of the isolation if it overheats: in 12v you do not risk anything, in 220v it is less on
the higher the tension, the greater the length of the wire will be very fine: the thermal contact with the part to be heated will be bad and the wire will overheat before the part is hot
it is therefore necessary to distribute the heating resistance over a long length of pipes: in the photo it seems a little short
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hello the ball
in fact with the copper wire you do not make a resistance but an induction heating.
you are doing a tranfo with the secondary in short circuit.
it is not too suitable because if it heats up too much the varnish will melt and put the primer in short circuit, in addition it consumes a lot.
the classic line heater (resistance) and more suitable.
in fact with the copper wire you do not make a resistance but an induction heating.
you are doing a tranfo with the secondary in short circuit.
it is not too suitable because if it heats up too much the varnish will melt and put the primer in short circuit, in addition it consumes a lot.
the classic line heater (resistance) and more suitable.
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the goal would be to create a preheater on the injection line of an oil burner to burn oil
the burner chooses to air a lot, especially the pump provided you modify it a little. (chgt of the discharge spring)
the ideal is to heat the oil before pump to 140 degrees minimum or 100 if in line heater, to raise the pump pressure to at least 30 bars and to put a bigger nozzle with a spraying to be determined according to tests.
basically this is the description of a heavy fuel oil burner.
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- elephant
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Sorry, I am also of the opinion that copper is not the right material: you are proposing a dangerous DIY.
Nichrome + high temperature resistant sheath or porcelain beads
Nichrome + high temperature resistant sheath or porcelain beads
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elephant Supreme Honorary éconologue PCQ ..... I'm too cautious, not rich enough and too lazy to really save the CO2! http://www.caroloo.be
Hello ball
Why not tear down an old electric heater, there are plenty at the recycling center. You recover the resistances and the ceramic supports, you modify in the direction that you want, it is not a handyman like you who let oneself get carried away by a resistance .
Why not tear down an old electric heater, there are plenty at the recycling center. You recover the resistances and the ceramic supports, you modify in the direction that you want, it is not a handyman like you who let oneself get carried away by a resistance .
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Reason is the madness of the strongest. The reason for the less strong it is madness.
[Eugène Ionesco]
http://www.editions-harmattan.fr/index. ... te&no=4132
[Eugène Ionesco]
http://www.editions-harmattan.fr/index. ... te&no=4132
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