Ok and did you have a blue flame with GNR?
A few minutes is not enough ... You have to do the test on the duration of the fouling ...
Inopportune fouling jet boiler BORA HTE
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Take an empty and clean can of kerosene in waste, fill it with GNR or white (same with the taxes on white) and test it over two days ... if your sprinklers stay clean, it comes of your fod.
Your line heater is wired with 4 wires (normally) you should see the electrical diagram to see what they correspond to (certainly two for the heating resistance and two for the regulation) then we could make you do tests with this heater .. .
Your line heater is wired with 4 wires (normally) you should see the electrical diagram to see what they correspond to (certainly two for the heating resistance and two for the regulation) then we could make you do tests with this heater .. .
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The only thing safe in the future. It is that there may chance that it conforms to our expectations ...
I have the diagram of the heater control box.
I will find or shunter.
With the GNR the flame seemed more pretty; that said, GNR has better heating power (cetane number) than fod, so it's normal that it burns better.
What is incomprehensible is that I change sprinklers 2 or 3
times in a few days and after that I pass 1000 l without worries ....
Incomprehensible ...
I am thinking either of the poor quality fod but the filters would stop the "crap".
Otherwise the heater that hangs (because the nozzle holder is full of black, of carbon like a candle from a bad moped and dirt) ...
Otherwise the LE type nozzle (low emission) which filters too fine with its non-return valve ...
From memory even the first days of operation of the boiler there were already concerns of dirty sprinklers.
FYI I changed the air directing tube 3 times (it was pierced because of a nozzle that pissed 3 times). 3 x 200 €!
I changed the electronic box.
I changed the heater already once.
Either way it results in poor combustion.
I will find or shunter.
With the GNR the flame seemed more pretty; that said, GNR has better heating power (cetane number) than fod, so it's normal that it burns better.
What is incomprehensible is that I change sprinklers 2 or 3
times in a few days and after that I pass 1000 l without worries ....
Incomprehensible ...
I am thinking either of the poor quality fod but the filters would stop the "crap".
Otherwise the heater that hangs (because the nozzle holder is full of black, of carbon like a candle from a bad moped and dirt) ...
Otherwise the LE type nozzle (low emission) which filters too fine with its non-return valve ...
From memory even the first days of operation of the boiler there were already concerns of dirty sprinklers.
FYI I changed the air directing tube 3 times (it was pierced because of a nozzle that pissed 3 times). 3 x 200 €!
I changed the electronic box.
I changed the heater already once.
Either way it results in poor combustion.
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Attached is the diagram of the case.
I imagine that it is necessary to shunt terminal 3 and 8 to make believe that the thermostat is hot?
https://www.econologie.info/share/partag ... RI1Xp0.pdf
I imagine that it is necessary to shunt terminal 3 and 8 to make believe that the thermostat is hot?
https://www.econologie.info/share/partag ... RI1Xp0.pdf
Last edited by Pyclic30 the 28 / 12 / 11, 17: 48, 1 edited once.
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Alain G wrote:Rather, disconnect R (resistance) from terminal 3.
Certainly you have to disconnect the resistance but there is a control box ...
If 2 is considered neutral according to the diagram; 8 the + power supply to the heater (see internal diagram of the internal box) ... the processor via a relay sends the juice via 8 into the heater and once hot the contact closes and the juice arrives in 3?
This is how I interpret the diagram. Otherwise box alarm ...
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Thanks!
I meant terminal 2!
You have to see if the heater thermostat works in normally open mode or n. closed.
Wouldn't it be easier to replace the thermostat which does not activate at the right temperature value?
I meant terminal 2!
You have to see if the heater thermostat works in normally open mode or n. closed.
Wouldn't it be easier to replace the thermostat which does not activate at the right temperature value?
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Stepping behind sometimes can strengthen friendship.
Criticism is good if added to some compliments.
Alain
Criticism is good if added to some compliments.
Alain
Alain G wrote:Thanks!
I meant terminal 2!
You have to see if the heater thermostat works in normally open mode or n. closed.
Wouldn't it be easier to replace the thermostat which does not activate at the right temperature value?
I have already changed the complete thermostat heater box ...
It hasn't changed anything, but the problem persists in this fouling area.
That said, it worked better for a while so will know ...
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You can also reduce the heating power of the fuel by recovering the old heating resistance and putting it in series with the one in place. (Without reconnecting its part of the fuel circuit).
Don't you have a description of the hydraulic part of your machine?
Don't you have a description of the hydraulic part of your machine?
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Reason is the madness of the strongest. The reason for the less strong it is madness.
[Eugène Ionesco]
http://www.editions-harmattan.fr/index. ... te&no=4132
[Eugène Ionesco]
http://www.editions-harmattan.fr/index. ... te&no=4132
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