Time tracking operation on boiler OKOFEN

Heating, insulation, ventilation, VMC, cooling ... short thermal comfort. Insulation, wood energy, heat pumps but also electricity, gas or oil, VMC ... Help in choosing and implementation, problem solving, optimization, tips and tricks ...
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Pear Belle Helene
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by Pear Belle Helene » 01/12/08, 09:35

OK boss : Mrgreen:
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by Pear Belle Helene » 05/12/08, 13:43

My heating engineer just came by. Explain a lot to me : Mrgreen: and he raised the foot of the slope because there we were a little cool (17 ° the day) and showed me how to do it alone.

I asked him to read P 112 and P115, he also showed me.

So this gives:

P112: 1222
P113: 452 h

What do you think, gentlemen ???

And I send him the link of our posts because it interests him.
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by Did67 » 05/12/08, 14:19

Pear Belle Helene wrote:

P112: 1222
P113: 452 h

What do you think, gentlemen ???



Basically, a duration of 20 minutes per start ... Like me, before my hacks ...

If I tweaked, it's because I felt that it was not the best. Too many starts and too short cycles ...

Now don't get mad either.

And wait for Dirk's informed opinion too.
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Chaboum
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by Chaboum » 05/12/08, 17:52

hello company,

bon Poire Belle Hélène reassures me, I am not too ashamed even if apparently it is not the top as perf. I am at 16 min per cycle !!! possible hack ?? I do not know.

temperature rise too fast, so burner shutdown?
but if slowly rising: then it takes a long time to reach the set room temperature, so switch on 3 hours before?
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by Did67 » 06/12/08, 17:51

chaboum wrote:hello company,

possible hack ?? I do not know.

temperature rise too fast, so burner shutdown?
but if slowly rising: then it takes a long time to reach the set room temperature, so switch on 3 hours before


Do we expect: hack = settings (modifications of one or the other parameters) ... I'm not talking about "jailbreak"

Effectively: rise too fast, maximum temperature reached, therefore stop, and it is at this point that the arrival of cold return water is massively made, so the boiler cools quickly, minimum temperature reached, it restarts , the 3-way valve closes the flow to protect the boiler ... This is what I called "oscillatory operation"

The solution that I found (but it is undoubtedly to be adapted to the heating installation of each one - the "water masses" play a big role: that of the boiler and that contained in all the heating circuit) :

1) lower the minimum boiler temperature (from 65 to 63 ° C) - parameter 4-7 of the regulation (old model)

2) increase the proportional range / parameter 5-8 of the regulation, from 9 to 12 ° C (otherwise, as a result of the previous setting, the maximum temperature which causes the shutdown drops to 72 ° C instead of 75 ° C and we won nothing!). Adjustment reserved for the installer.

3) "calm" the boiler, by lowering the nominal operating temperature from 70 ° C to 65 ° C (then I went back to 67 ° C when it was very cold): this is parameter P 263 (dial the boiler / "pellet control" small screen on the left, the front panel of the boiler must be unscrewed). Parameters of level P 200, a code is required, in principle also reserved for the installer).

And with that, I came out of the oscillations, with endless stop-restart. Except in the morning at startup, of course. Where it takes two to three cycles before it starts to stabilize. When the circuit water is cold. And there, indeed, I accepted to anticipate the start ("normal" mode programmed "for 6 h for a temperature reached around 7/8 h - despite the 210 mn anticipation already planned on the regulation / P 3- 5
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Pear Belle Helene
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by Pear Belle Helene » 08/12/08, 21:20

And here I am again : Mrgreen:

Our heating engineer had increased the foot of the slope to 35 ° since we had more than 17 ° in the casa.

But here is more wind, big jelly and suddenly we have 22 ° ..... arghhhh never happy the blonde : Mrgreen: and yes we are too hot again.

So I am going to lower the slope again to 33 °, tomorrow we will see what happens.

There's still something that "annoys" me a bit.

What is the button in the kitchen for ??? Since this is not where we acted when we are too hot.

What is the use of the thermostat which tells the boiler the interior temperature? Because there I went to check the boiler, it indicates 22 ° 7 in the house. Except the instruction is to have 20 ° in the house.
Why does the boiler not react when it "sees" that it is too hot in the house ???

I do not understand why you have to go constantly hacking directly on the boiler. It is to assume that you want 20 °, but when you have 22 ° nothing changes.

I don't want to say that I'm dissatisfied, no no, but just that I find that it doesn't react.
I want to go modify the foot of the slope when it is too hot or too cold but with each change of weather I will find myself in the boiler : Mrgreen: to tap on the dashboard.
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by Woodcutter » 08/12/08, 23:43

Good and the zhom, what is it for?
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by Did67 » 09/12/08, 09:07

Pear Belle Helene wrote:
There's still something that "annoys" me a bit.

What is the button in the kitchen for ??? Since this is not where we acted when we are too hot.

What is the use of the thermostat which tells the boiler the interior temperature? Because there I went to check the boiler, it indicates 22 ° 7 in the house. Except the instruction is to have 20 ° in the house.
Why does the boiler not react when it "sees" that it is too hot in the house ???

I do not understand why you have to go constantly hacking directly on the boiler. It is to assume that you want 20 °, but when you have 22 ° nothing changes.


Do not mix up :

1) adjust the heating curve : as already written I do not know where, iterative: in other words, we approach the right curve by successive trial and error ... This can be annoying. And by adjusting too much, we quickly went around in circles. The heating contractor tango, one step forward, two steps back ... The difficulty is that the weather changes constantly! And there are the other factors that confuse (see below).

But once it's called, it's called ... We can't do any better!

2) adjust the temperature : because the ideal, which your regulation is trying to achieve, is disturbed by a lot of factors (the wind you were talking about, but also, the other contributions: oven, many guests each releasing 100 W, the activity we lead: 20 ° C we can be too hot or too cold depending on what we do and depending on the mood ...); that is the role of the indoor room thermostat ...

3) I still have a doubt as to whether the correction factor is correctly programmed with you. I will bring out my doc this evening to give you the reference of this factor on the regulation and so that you tell me if it is at zero or not! If it was at zero (factory setting), that would explain why your boiler does not "react" as you say. It was the case at home, before I hack ...

4) Afterwards, we must also tolerate deviations because a house has thermal inertia: it can be 22,7 ° C in your house, your boiler has reacted but it does not feel YET, while your walls cool (this This argument is all the more important if your house is "massive": interior concrete or stone walls, or if the heating is done by the floor - at my place, the reaction time is 3 or 4 hours! at 18 p.m. it is 20,5 ° C for example and I still have 20 ° C at 22 p.m.).
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by dirk pitt » 09/12/08, 09:54

good explanation from did67.

I would just add (for once it's me who completes) that when you observe a "non-normal" case of the style it is 22 ° while I have set 20 ° on the interior thermostat, check one thing:

What is the temperature that the boiler "sees" because it sees perhaps 20 ° and you cannot blame it. it depends on where the thermostat is placed, whether it is properly calibrated or not, etc.
to find out what the boiler "sees", you press the small button representing a thermometer on the boiler regulator. on each press, the display will alternate between the temperatures seen by the boiler with a small symbol indicating what temperature we are talking about:
1-temp boiler
2-temp of the starting water to the radiators
3-temp domestic water in the tank
4-temp outdoor
5-temp indoor room
if the boiler sees 20 ° whereas it is actually 22 °, you can act with a parameter indicated by did67 it is a correction that says to the boiler: "OK, you take the temperature read + 2 ° and worse that's all."

in passing also check what the boiler "sees" concerning the outside temperature because an outside sensor badly positioned (too close to a window or door or well exposed to the sun) distorts the regulation. The best regulation in the world cannot regulate with the wrong information.
the English use an expression (about the data output from the computers): GIGO: Garbage IN, Garbage OUT which one could roughly translate by: shit in entry gives shit in exit : Lol:

Finally, what I find unfortunate is that all this work should be done by the heating engineer because there is on all equipment an essential period of adjustments before swimming in perfect comfort. they are not aware of the fact that they shoot themselves in the foot by not making this effort because they make dissatisfied who may not tell them directly but who will go down in flames this or that brand by saying to who wants to hear it (including on forum) that it's shit while the problem is elsewhere.
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Pear Belle Helene
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by Pear Belle Helene » 09/12/08, 17:24

Woodcutter wrote:Good and the zhom, what is it for?


I wonder again : Mrgreen: : Mrgreen: : Mrgreen:
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