Cool a room ecologically, air conditioning

Heating, insulation, ventilation, VMC, cooling ... short thermal comfort. Insulation, wood energy, heat pumps but also electricity, gas or oil, VMC ... Help in choosing and implementation, problem solving, optimization, tips and tricks ...
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hic
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by hic » 22/07/13, 20:44

Did67 wrote:Indeed, the humidity of the air plays a lot: a 30 ° / 100% humidity in Abidjan is tiring, while a dry 35 ° in the Sahel is quite livable (as long as you hydrate! Because without sweating in the sense of dripping, we lose a lot of water directly in the form of vapor).

This is the drawback of water evaporative cooling systems. It cools well and well, and even improssously if the air is dry; but that does not increase comfort that much ...

Where an air conditioning cools and dries up!

[for info, 23,8 ° tonight, house closed; always 31,5 ° outside]

Hello

the comfort zone is between 18 ° and 25 °,
above 25 °, the calories must be evacuated by evaporation, natural convection is no longer efficient enough,

. . . while sleeping, for example.

if we cannot evacuate the calories while sleeping by evaporation,
because the hygrometry is greater than 65% or 70%
(personal number felt),
we enter the overheating zone,
which will decrease muscle performance and weaken his general condition - while sleeping.
This is what kills, even if we are wet with perspiration



sweating is useless if there is no evaporation due to air saturated with water
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fabio.gel
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heat production for cooking




by fabio.gel » 23/07/13, 07:35

Hello

Our house is well insulated with little inertia (the whole floor of the ground floor is made of wood so no possibility of increasing weight at this level).
In the morning it is very cool but here is when it comes to cooking the combustion causes an increase in the temperature in the house (very economical in winter) but for the summer it would be necessary to eat outside :? .

I still have the idea to use a single flow CMV + 1 extractor:

- The VMC pumps calories from the kitchen and the bathroom
- The extractor brings in outside air by cooling in summer or heating in winter, passing through the basement through an aluminum duct.

On the other hand, how much length of aluminum sheath does it take to eliminate enough calories in the basement before blowing it into the house?
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I Citro
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by I Citro » 29/07/13, 16:10

chatelot16 wrote:it would be a trick to invent an automatic ventilation that turns on only at the right time at the end of the night when the temperature is lowest

this automatic ventilation would also be effective in other seasons to save heating: ventilate only at the end of the afternoon when the outside temperature is the highest

it would be better than the stupid VMC which ventilates continuously therefore continues to carry heat when we have too much, or lose it when it is not necessary
But it all already exists : Lol:
This is called an "INTELLIGENT" Dual Flow CMV. : Mrgreen:
Mine has a Winter mode which, when I disconnect it, systematically cools the house as soon as the outside temperature is above the indoor set temperature. This is done by opening a By-pass shutter which injects air into the house WITHOUT GOING THROUGH THE EXCHANGER but still filtering this air.

The advantage of a DF CMV is to avoid the thermal waste caused by a single flow CMV but also and above all to remove pollutants from the indoor air ...
It is amazing to note that the filters on the return air are much more clogged than those on the blown air. : Shock:
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hic
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Re: heat production for cooking




by hic » 03/08/13, 18:13

fabio.gel wrote:Hello

Our house is well insulated with little inertia (the whole floor of the ground floor is made of wood so no possibility of increasing weight at this level).
In the morning it is very cool but here is when it comes to cooking the combustion causes an increase in the temperature in the house (very economical in winter) but for the summer it would be necessary to eat outside :? .

I still have the idea to use a single flow CMV + 1 extractor:

- The VMC pumps calories from the kitchen and the bathroom
- The extractor brings in outside air by cooling in summer or heating in winter, passing through the basement through an aluminum duct.

On the other hand, how much length of aluminum sheath does it take to eliminate enough calories in the basement before blowing it into the house?

Hi fabio.gel

How do you do to protect yourself from IR coming from your triple south-facing patio door? : Shock:
To block IR, a shutter is not enough
STP tests a metallic plastic mirror

or, and add 10cm of polystyrene by hermetically closing your French window (good in summer and winter)
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by oli 80 » 04/08/13, 14:46

Hello, I also saw a home-made air conditioning with a pelletier module from an electric cooler to be connected to the cigarette lighter still called a car fridge and a fan.
http://www.forum-auto.com/les-clubs/sec ... 191579.htm
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by I Citro » 05/08/13, 21:13

The performance of a pelletizer system is deplorable, so its efficiency must be close to nothing at all ...

This only works for "coolers" of ten liters maximum, and still consuming nearly 100W ... Many innocent people have found themselves out of order for having left the cooler running with the engine off and thus emptying their battery in a few hours...

Cooling the 25.000 liters of a 10m² room (10m² x 2,5m high) otherwise requires more cooling capacity (between 10 and 30 times more).

I forgot to mention that one of the most important accessories for the nighttime comfort in our house comes from the ceiling fans that I installed in all the rooms after the heatwave of 2003.
This week I was able to enjoy them, not because they lower the temperature of the rooms, but because they improve the efficiency of body cooling through perspiration.
Lying "lightly" on the bed, my wife complains of being cold and demands that I lower the speed of rotation.

Another interesting point, the air circulation disturbs mosquitoes and protects us from bites. : Mrgreen:
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