Change my oil boiler against a wooden logs boiler

Heating, insulation, ventilation, VMC, cooling ... short thermal comfort. Insulation, wood energy, heat pumps but also electricity, gas or oil, VMC ... Help in choosing and implementation, problem solving, optimization, tips and tricks ...
dedeleco
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by dedeleco » 27/07/11, 15:57

I have various practical heating solutions !!
Those of origin preserved (not only the gas but also the absurd electric whole which I never use in another house) and the wood free reduced, even eliminates the heating bill and the all or nothing adapts to this heating independent without any problem, contrary to absurd water laws !!

The water-dependent regulation and external sensor is an eyesore that heats up the cold house like a turtle when you leave when you arrive, since the power is set by the external T. (famous water law !!) so that I would wait as long to heat my house without cold frost at the start (at 5 ° C in my absence) by -18 ° C as by + 10 ° C outside, 4 to 7 days given the inertia and the low power if it it's not cold outside !!

A real nonsense for my intermittent uses !!

To avoid at all costs complicated regulations unnecessarily, even absurd !!

See the 170 pages of Okof boiler adjustment on econology of those, who, like shadoks, are constantly trying to adjust !!
Fortunately I don't have this type of gear, I would have to redesign all the absurd regulation !!

My insert heats up a cold house when I arrive, the hot air blowing arriving in half an hour and not days after my departure at the end of the weekend !! !!!

So for me, impossible to buy those expensive slow Okof boilers or others which would assure me that wek-ends to curdle with this water law, or to try all kinds of endless adjustments like a shadok !!!

Besides, I have a tendency to react strongly to the absurdities of modes like this water law with the outside sensor.

As mode there are much worse:
so I remember my astonishment when I saw the fashion in the 70s, to put on my sons, newborns around 40 years ago, swaddled tightly and put on their stomachs on the bed, their noses right against the sheet, unable to lift and turn your head to avoid suffocation !! and the nurses asking no questions !!
Nobody realized it and all continued this deadly absurdity !! Except me !!

20 years later I learned that I was right, we divide by 2 the number of sudden infant deaths by putting them on their backs and not on their stomachs, obviously they can breathe !!

So absurd fashions, I tend to question them, out of pure common sense !!!
An unnecessarily complicated and incomprehensible regulation is no better than ultra simple !!

But I see, people are often very conformist !!
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by roy1361 » 27/07/11, 18:32

dedeleco wrote:So for me, impossible to buy those expensive slow Okof boilers or others which would assure me that wek-ends to curdle with this water law, or to try all kinds of endless adjustments like a shadok !!!


But not dedicated,

Modern boilers can be programmed and can even be controlled from a telephone or laptop.

You will therefore be able to arrive in your second home which will have been previously heated by your magnificent Okofen (or Fröling, or others ...) thanks to its programming! Boiler which will therefore have put your comfortable home at the ideal temperature, and this room by room, with the help of this sensational water law based on a single outdoor temperature sensor ...

All of this, of course, while consuming only renewable and CO2-neutral energy.

Isn't progress beautiful?

Come on, @ +
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dedeleco
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by dedeleco » 27/07/11, 19:33

Firstly I will not put 20000 € for a pellet boiler which does not allow the use of free wood around my home and obliges to pay 300 € per tonne for the pellets !!!!

Secondly, the reliability of the arrival of the pellets and the departure of the ash is not total.
Finally if it takes 3 days to heat the house, coming every weekend as much to heat it without stopping since the heating is stopped as on Monday and Tuesday and on the other hand if, depending on the weather, we decide at the last moment, it is too late to heat up !!

So not ideal programming.
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julnoel
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by julnoel » 27/07/11, 21:17

Well I have some answers, small in spite of everything, but thank you.
Like everything I have read about this forum concerning this subject (wood for fuel oil) is quickly transformed by wood vs pellets, chips ... blah, everyone gives their opinion on the best boiler, the most environmentally friendly, the best performance .... I don't care !!! this is not the subject of my question for me it is a wood boiler and that's it!
on the one hand, heating with wood costs me 100 € a year when I will cut it myself, moreover, being a carpenter, recovery is also very easy, having some notions of ecology and being sensitive to it, nothing better than wood which has been less than 10km, and out of the question to use petroleum at home, I have no choice to use it to move around so not of that at home because I have the choice there! !!
That said, I have a whole heating circuit ready for use in my future house with an oil boiler ... which I therefore want to change with a log boiler that I load myself with my wood and my elbow grease.
So can I change my fuel oil for wood easily without major plumbing work?
Thank you Christophe for your explanations, I saw a diagram on one of your links and I do not understand anything, but it seems interesting to me, I will look at it soon :)
Effectively the 100% thermomechanical coupled to a balloon, the hot water rises and draws the cold water in a way, interesting we charge when leaving for work in the morning, the outbreak heats the water of the balloon which circulates in the radiators during the day to have a freezing temperature when coming home in the evening, another outbreak for the evening and at night it seems too simple to me but I will continue to dig ...
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dedeleco
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by dedeleco » 28/07/11, 02:28

In the event of an electrical failure, the water circulators do not work, but the log boiler still burns, (apparently), and therefore continues to heat the same water ... big worry Sad are there any overpressure valves or another solution .. very stupid) ???

A solution that works simple is the thermosyphon which works without a circulator with fairly large pipes well installed on a wood-fired boiler and not only on solar and which ensures the spontaneous distribution of heat.
I saw it work in the past with my grandparents, in a two-storey house without a balloon or circulator, just the natural thermosyphon !! It is not reserved for solar.
http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermosiphon

Now, the circulator with balloon is much easier because it works even when the thermosyphon is blocked by a geometric error in the installation of the pipes, no need for the installer to think anymore !!

If the thermosiphon to radiators exists even if the circulator is stopped without electric current, then the heat will be evacuated spontaneously and the absorber buffer tank is not essential. It is necessary to have rather large pipes going upwards, without portions which go down again before the radiators.

So the wood boiler can replace the oil one almost identically.
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the middle
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by the middle » 28/07/11, 06:14

In the event of an electrical failure, the water circulators do not work, but the log boiler still burns, (apparently), and therefore continues to heat the same water ... big worry Sad are there any overpressure valves or another solution .. very stupid) ???

Normally, a good boiler shuts off the air supply if the water is hot.
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by Did67 » 28/07/11, 11:54

So it's clear:

- you have every interest in switching to wood, so log boiler

- I think, but this is only a tip, that you have every interest in opting for a tampon: for example, these days, one of my neighbors, an NFB agent, made an outbreak for to heat his house; without buffer, you are "cooked", with buffer, you heat up a blow, the heat goes into the buffer, and with that, it maintains 20 or 21 ° for 3 or 4 days by heating a little bit (but for a long time) ...

- ditto, as you say, you come home, your house is hot, even if there has been no fire for 10 or 12 or 20 hours ... otherwise, depending on the inertia, you are hot when you go to bed (if there is a lot of inertia), the time for the fire to take, for it to heat up all the circuits, for it to heat the walls, etc ...

- the controlled boilers do have safety devices

- in addition, there is always a safety valve in the circuit in the event of boiling (even on my pellet boiler)
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by Did67 » 28/07/11, 11:59

julnoel wrote:
the greener the better in yield .... I don't care !!! ...


Mlagré everything, it's a shame not to give a damn! If we can have wood + a good combustion, I am sorry not to ask the question.

The majority of forumers here we still ALSO have this concern ...

But hey, I admit!
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by Did67 » 28/07/11, 12:05

julnoel wrote:Effectively the 100% thermomechanical coupled to a balloon, the hot water rises and draws the cold water in a way, interesting we charge when leaving for work in the morning, the outbreak heats the water of the balloon which circulates in the radiators during the day to have a freezing temperature when coming home in the evening, another outbreak for the evening and at night it seems too simple to me but I will continue to dig ...


Operating as a thermosyphon, without a circulator, assumes that your house is all high. The thermosyphon is simply that hot water rises "naturally".

So you will not be able to have sufficient natural circulation (whether fuel or wood ...) if your heating circuit is mostly "flat", like the boiler room in the basement and then x radiators distributed on the ground floor on 120 m² ...

Likewise, you will not be able to have an effective "thermosiphon" with a buffer tank placed next to your boiler ... The heat will not go naturally "next to" ...

The risk: not enough circulation, your boiler is overheating ...
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dedeleco
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by dedeleco » 28/07/11, 12:30

It all depends on the inertia of the house.
l
Concrete houses have a high inertia and especially with tiles and screeds and serve as a very good buffer and therefore limit temperature excursions to little, especially if old or stone.

It all depends on the possible budget, but it is possible to do without a buffer, if you are not too demanding to want an air at 20 ° C to the nearest 0,1 ° C !!
So the installation is very close to that for fuel oil.
With a geometry of at least one radiator in height, the thermosyphon will work with the circulator broken and the heat will be evacuated to the radiators at the top.

The buffer can be added later if there is a problem afterwards.
It can also be a block of cement (insulated wall, screed and tiles) or earth around an additional radiator, above the boiler to operate as a thermosiphon, if necessary.
This solution can be very inexpensive, anything massive and heavy acts as a buffer, not just water in a balloon, earth, stone, pebbles, cement, buffer almost as well for cheap. (one m3 of stone, concrete or clay equals 500l of water as well as a buffer).
We tend to see only water from a balloon as a buffer (quite expensive), but almost anything massive works with it. a heat capacity half that of water of the same volume roughly, to fix the order of magnitude. (2Mjoules / m3 ° C or 0,550KWh / ° C is a little more than 7Kg of burnt wood for 50 ° C more or from 20 ° C to 70 ° C to fix ideas. 1000L of water corresponds to 14 Kg of drink.
http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacit%C3 ... e_massique
concrete density 2,4 and dry wood approximately 4KWh / kilo approximately
)

A mass stove does this, (1 to 2 tons) but the mass can be outside away from the stove as well (air or water circulation).
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