3 or 4-way valve regulation adjustment Centratherm ZG 254 for heated floors?

[Christophe]

Thanks for the formula. I'm on 0.6 there and it works pretty much ...

Between us your regul knew grandmother

Well you know what they say: it's in old pots ... it is already 20 years old, chances are that it will last another 20 years ... (for the new ultra-sophisticated regu I have no more doubts ...)

[jean63]

Thanks for the formula. I'm on 0.6 there and it works pretty much ...

Between us your regul knew grandmother

Well you know what they say: it's in old pots ... it is already 20 years old, chances are that it will last another 20 years ... (for the new ultra-sophisticated regu I have no more doubts ...)

The right slope is difficult to find.

In any case, with the inertia of the floor there is always a difference between the emission of heat in the pipes of the floor and the heat emitted in the rooms and vice versa.

[John claude69]

Hello, you are all talking about the starting temperature of 45 to 50 °. My poor old heat pump, which has been pumping tirelessly since 1984, does not raise the starting temperature to 36 ° maximum for a return of 28 °. Isn't she tired ?. I would also like to know the reference T ° ext. How to know it or calculate it ?. Thanks for the answers.

[yanyan26]

I fully realized the realization of a heated floor following an extension of 20 m2 for bathroom and wc

For the moment my boiler is a 200 liter electric hot water tank supplied in night hours. It has been working for 2 years and seeing the price of fuel I think it will stay that way.
Nothing like a low temperature underfloor heating as heating. On very cold days at the end of the evening there is not enough hot water left but it is rare.
My regulation is made of a thermostatic tap at the hot water outlet of the tank with its probe installed on the return of the heated floor which passes through a 4-way valve, a circulator, a check valve, a flexcon.

Basically I set the thermostatic valve to 30 ° and the 4-way valve in manual and when the floor return is 30 °, the thermostatic valve closes and the floor turns in a loop.

A room thermostat turns the circulator. Voila voila

A+

[jean63]

I fully realized the realization of a heated floor following an extension of 20 m2 for bathroom and wc

For the moment my boiler is a 200 liter electric hot water tank supplied in night hours. It has been working for 2 years and seeing the price of fuel I think it will stay that way.
Nothing like a low temperature underfloor heating as heating. On very cold days at the end of the evening there is not enough hot water left but it is rare.
My regulation is made of a thermostatic tap at the hot water outlet of the tank with its probe installed on the return of the heated floor which passes through a 4-way valve, a circulator, a check valve, a flexcon.

Basically I set the thermostatic valve to 30 ° and the 4-way valve in manual and when the floor return is 30 °, the thermostatic valve closes and the floor turns in a loop.

A room thermostat turns the circulator. Voila voila

A+

So you heat the water at night with electricity in the night hours and during this time does your floor heating system work or not?
Or do you build up a water reserve of 200 liters at 90 ° at night and during the day you circulate in the floor with your regul?
What is the consumption in KWh at night and what floor area do you heat?
Do you have 2 balloons? : one for the PC and another for the DHW?

[yanyan26]

Yes, I leave the underfloor heating on that's why sometimes in the evenings of very cold there is more hot water.

Turning off the underfloor heating at night would cause the inertia of the floor to make the bathroom cold and too long to warm up before the morning wash

I did not check the consumption. The resistance of the tank is 2400 w and I have the same tank for the DHW

A+

[bolt]

Hello

My poor old heat pump, which has been pumping tirelessly since 1984, does not raise the starting temperature to 36 ° maximum for a return of 28 °. Isn't she tired ?.

before your heat pump went higher in starting T ° in the same configuration
if the T ° has dropped this can mean internal leaks in the compressor: the efficiency of the compressor must therefore have decreased:
higher current consumption compared to calories produced

a bit as if you were plowing in rough terrain: double wheel turns (double energy expenditure) because of skating for the same result

but if your heat pump is in good condition, the weaker the start, the better your heat pump is (more energy recovered compared to its electricity consumption)

that said check the correct operation of the input energy: evaporator (input exchanger) very clean if heated with outside air
or not scaled if heated by hard water from a borehole


the main basic principle of PAC is to produce lowest possible heat output compressor while being usable for the needs of the considered heating

for example, using a buffer tank with a heat output from the heat pump of 45 ° C and having a 3-way valve at the outlet of the buffer tank for regulating the heating circuit at 40 ° C radiator flow does not correspond to the previous example to be plowed in bold ground, but simply to plow with handbrake

and that is, each additional degree of the actual heating requirement (19 ° C for the interior of a house) corresponds to one more step of the "handbrake" squeezed.

knowing that in a house, the atmosphere is the fight between the cold source (surface of the walls and ceilings in more or less isolated contact with the outside) and the hot source (surface of the heating elements)

the larger the surface area of ​​the heating elements, at least it will have to exceed 19 ° C of the ideal atmosphere to manage to maintain it at this stage

the most practical at present being the heated floor

bolt

[John claude69]

I have never previously checked the entry and exit T °. But the intensity at the compressor terminals is identical to the manufacturer's data. So the compressor is still in good condition.

[yanyan26]

Hello

Some will think that supplying a heated floor with a heater is not very economical but it is the only fast and inexpensive means that I had found. Maybe later to supply the heater with a wind turbine

[John claude69]

And why not by solar panels. When the geographic location allows, solar panels are used as water heaters. A low temperature heating floor requires a lower temperature. So why not?