It's smoking, wood stove. Reverse print

[the auvergna]

Ps it's a wood stove, brand Panadero Bali

[jonule]

you can use refractory glue/putty, bricodep', or even make a roof with refractory cement.
the cracks are not very important I think, as long as you have the same mass.

do not neglect the air supply to have a good draft and not be in depression in your house, ie the cold air which flows on the wood stove and inevitably you on the way, cooling the tiles etc.. .
in overpressure, the heat moves on its own from room to room and, even if it works well, goes out through where the fresh air entered. this requires an air inlet diameter greater than the smoke outlet diameter.

good fire !

[the auvergna]

Pardon my ignorance but
"This requires an air inlet diameter greater than the smoke outlet diameter."

Is the air inlet the little pull tab for the draw?
If that's her she's smaller

[chatelot16]

there is the air inlet on the stove which is very small

jonule tells you about the air inlet in your building, and advises you to have a big one

why an air inlet in the building bigger than the air inlet of the stove?

we forgot to mention the VMC: big machine to smoke stoves

the VMC sucks into the housing so air enters through all the holes, including the chimney ... so the VMC opposes the draft ... so stop the VMC

a stove sucks air into the dwelling so replaces the VMC: you can stop the VMC when using a stove

opening a window is a way to cancel the effect of the VMC to quickly troubleshoot when you don't know how to stop it but it's bad ... when you need to heat up there is better to do than not open the windows

a VMC often has a useful flow only in certain seasons: when there is no heating and there is a risk of humidity: the flow of the VMC is always too strong when it is cold: it is a waste of heating: you have to know how to stop it

[jonule]

oh no no I'm not talking about a wood stove but a home ;=)
the air inlet for the stove must come from outside your home, to reach your wood stove, either just behind it through a wall, but you can also gain it, that's what I just did end up at my house;
to be under pressure, the inlet section of this pipe (you must put an adjustable/closable grid there) must be greater than the section of your stove flue (ex: diameter 125)

[Did67]

A tip that my father put into practice:
Start a small fire with 3 balls of newspaper and very dry small wood.
the fire will start very strong and heat the duct, creating an upward flow.
as soon as the paper is burnt and the small wood is on fire, add a few logs a few cm in diameter.
when the medium logs have caught fire, add the large logs..

In general, we light all our stoves or inserts like that, right??

Launching with the paper works well if the connection between the stove and the flue is not too convoluted; the hot air then quickly finds its way to the conuit and the tiarge begins fairly quickly, without too much "smoke" (a little anyway, because necessarily, at the start, there is no fire).

As Chatelot said, it is a cold duct with a warmer exterior and especially interior atmosphere that can create this problem. It is then natural that the colder air from the duct descends into the room as soon as the stove is opened, replaced by warmer outside air which is sucked in (otherwise it would not descend into the duct!), cools and "flows" into the warmer air in the room.

Unless mechanical suctions (extractors, VMC) create a depression!

Two tips:

a) check that there is no VMC or extractor which, in addition, puts the house in a slight depression! That wouldn't fix anything!!! If so, stop them...

b) if the connection is convoluted and it smokes a lot, you can burn the balls of paper to start with the cleaning hatches of the chimney flue (generally in the basement) and immediately start the stove in stride...

[written while chatelot and jonule were posting! I leave anyway, it goes in the same direction]

[chatelot16]

what you should not do is completely load the stove before lighting it: paper underneath, kindling, then heavy wood on top

with such a load when you turn on the heat of the paper is lost to reheat the large log and the smoke arrives cold in the fireplace, and there is no draft ... and if the fire starts anyway it smokes the room

it is therefore necessary to burn only paper, or very fine kindling, until the print starts

only make a large load ready to light directly when you are sure that the fireplace is still hot from the previous fire

[jonule]

Two tips:
a) check that there is no VMC or extractor which, in addition, puts the house in a slight depression! That wouldn't fix anything!!! If yes, the

just fit non-return valves on the extractions, it's sold in DIY and it's mounted just after the extractor, in series.
I did it at home so as not to disturb the flows, it's essential, especially with an airtight house.

[Did67]

??

This will not prevent your house from going into depression, quite the contrary. So the flow to be reversed in the chimney: the air extracted by the extractor or the VMC, if the frames are sealed, will tend to enter through the chimney! So this will reverse the draw!

The non-return valve is there to save energy: when you don't need to extract, it prevents the cold air from outside from coming in "for nothing" (except to cool!).

But one element of the solution, you gave it above: a sufficient air intake, if possible behind the stove (for comfort: the cold air that enters will be heated immediately; the ideal being stoves sealed with an air intake that is connected directly to the outside).

[1360]

Well then, no one who knows how to properly light a fire in a stove?

A little video that should solve the problem... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=68mi9A4fll4

A+