Wood boiler for greenhouse

Heating, insulation, ventilation, VMC, cooling ... short thermal comfort. Insulation, wood energy, heat pumps but also electricity, gas or oil, VMC ... Help in choosing and implementation, problem solving, optimization, tips and tricks ...
antoine35
I learn econologic
I learn econologic
posts: 20
Registration: 08/12/10, 22:17




by antoine35 » 31/01/11, 21:45

1) the expansion tank opened at the highest does not provide security near the boiler, because a rapid and violent overpressure takes time to propagate to the balloon, and by inertia can cause farting.
So considering the price, it is safer to put a safety valve very close to the boiler heat source which can boil water quickly (depending on its mass).


ok I agree but "considering the price", we are not talking about the same thing. I recover, but a thermal safety valve and a prescomano do not react to the same principles (one is thermal the other pressostatic) and the price is not at all the same. I put anyway a prescomano (10 euros) but my question was more about the thermal valve (120 euros !!!)

2) for the greenhouse is there domestic water ??
Or is it just the water that heats the greenhouse in the ground?
Normally the water circuit of the boiler is never connected to sanitary water, because otherwise we drink rot from the boiler and radiators !!


in fact the boiler is the recovery but I do not need the DHW function but in one of the first posts, someone advised me to connect the circuit anyway to be sure that it does not blow up not. so it is connected to the balloon as the heating production pipes.

I tried to send my diagram but I couldn't. I am well aware that by not exchanging only in writing without knowing that we are certain of understanding each other well, this can lead to confusion.

hoping to have been clearer and once again thanking you for taking the time to help the planet and its eco-citizens, I salute you .....!
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dedeleco
Econologue expert
Econologue expert
posts: 9211
Registration: 16/01/10, 01:19
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by dedeleco » 31/01/11, 23:31

chatelot16 and others have provided basic advice to listen to:
to discuss more we must speak of greenhouse surface to be heated, and temperature: a greenhouse is poorly insulated: it is therefore practically possible only a small increase in temperature: no need for a thermostat, we just balance a certain power, and it's a few more degrees than if we did nothing
The buffer tank is not used to lower the temperature but to store heat, for regular heating of the house, with an intermittent boiler


So you better think about the dimensions and to the diagram, otherwise you will have surprises and problems. .
300m2 is big especially not insulated, and everything depends on the desired T?
If the power is insufficient the water will return cold to T of the greenhouse without ever managing to heat strongly.
Currently what is the gas power, and what is the return T? ???

For the valves read:
http://www.solaire-bois.fr/-Soupapes,thermiques-fr.html
which is well explained, you can put the two different valves by choosing them well sized, which do not put in the same places !!!
The thermal is on the arrival of cold water injected by safety to cool the boiler, if too hot by failure of the circulator, on large boiler which is likely to be damaged with a wood fire too powerful if without water.
The draft regulator must already be on the boiler ??
You have an interest in the recycling valve more than in the balloon which will complicate your life a little.
Look at the possible diagrams on econology and internet.

Make your decisions with a good understanding rather than just advice that may not be perfectly suited, or even contradictory between different stakeholders.

There are 60 years and more the boilers worked well with draft regulator and thermosiphon without the slightest circulator and electric device !!
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