Per-Eko Ksp Pellet Boiler

[boutkiller]

I would like to introduce my boiler: it is a Per-Eko KSP duo 15 kw.
I did the installation myself completely in October 2013.
It is a multi-fuel boiler, it can put grannules of wood, grain, coal, see logs of wood (30 cm) out of service.
It is made in Poland. They can be found on the famous auction site, or directly at the Polish dealer.
It is made of steel 5.6 mm, it looks rather strong. It is electronically regulated, you can control a valve 4 channel and connect a thermostat. For now I have not added anything to keep it simple.
It must be lit with cardboard then it remains in permanent operation. If it is stopped, it must be turned on manually.

My house is near Reims, is 200 m2 and is not very well insulated: 20 cm of glass wool under the eaves and 10 cm of polystyrene on the walls, nothing on the floor. Before my boiler installation, I used to heat with electric radiators type "toaster", and my wood stove turned almost permanently. It came back to me at about 2000E / year of electricity, and 600E of wood (14 steres), and apart from the main rooms or the stove diffused, I was rather cold because I put the electric radiators to the minimum.

So I decided to install a central heating with a boiler to grannule.
As it was unthinkable for me to put the price of a new car in a boiler, I was moving towards what I found among the cheapest: a boiler Per-Eko KSP duo 15 kw = less 2500E including delivery .
I then found a used 5t canvas silo for 1200E.
The assembly was easy: installation of a stainless steel chimney and connection to my new central heating system. The documentation supplied with the boiler is in English (or Polish) and is sufficiently clear for a novice provided that he has even studied the question. I spent a lot of time optimizing the settings of the contribution grannules because factory settings were not really suitable for my pellets (high consumption and lots of ash)
I connected my silo from 5t to the boiler silo (160l) via a small plastic worm that runs 2h a day via a timer (I plan to put level sensors soon).

Impressions after 3 months of use:
- I have a lot of comfort: 19 ° C everywhere.
- It has not been very cold this winter but I think 15 kw is more than enough (the boiler turns very rarely thoroughly).
- I empty the ash drawer (20 l) every week, and clean the boiler completely every month.
- I crank 4t of grannules in 3 months, knowing that during 1 months 1 / 2 she was badly settled
- I consume between 2 and 4 bags per day (30-60 kg).
- When it is not very cold outside (over 10 ° C), the boiler is idling (less than 30 kg of pellets per day): I have condensation ds the fireplace and I need to put bowls and the inside of the boiler gets dirty.

I'm waiting to have more perspective to estimate my conso to the year.

Projects:
-Install a valve 4 piloted channels with regulation of temperature + pilot circulator less greedy in energy.
- Put level sensors on my 160l silo for a fully automatic filling.

To solve my condensation problems in:
- Making a local farm and isolate around the boiler because it is currently in my barn.
- Put an insulated casing (double wall) to limit condensation.
- Change the position of the valve 4 channel in the circuit to increase the return temperature: because I can not have a return temperature greater than 50 ° C whatever the valve setting ...
- Put an evacuation under the chimney to do as the condensing boilers.

Conclusion:
For now my opinion on this boiler is quite mitigated because I find the conso quite important (8t / year for the moment even if I hope it will be less with my new settings, and isolating the boiler in a room).
I have my condensation problems to solve if I do not want the acidic water to eat the steel of the boiler.
For what it cost me (+/- 4000E) I have no regrets because it remains 4 x cheaper than other models quotes!)

I hope that my opinion will be useful to you. Do not hesitate to ask if you have any other questions.

[1360]

Hello,

Here is a feedback that promises to be interesting.

Would you have some pictures of the beast so that we can get an idea?

Thank you in advance.

[Did67]

- When it is not very cold outside (over 10 ° C), the boiler is idling (less than 30 kg of pellets per day): I have condensation ds the fireplace and I need to put bowls and the inside of the boiler gets dirty.


To solve my condensation problems in:
- Making a local farm and isolate around the boiler because it is currently in my barn.
- Put an insulated casing (double wall) to limit condensation.
- Change the position of the valve 4 channel in the circuit to increase the return temperature: because I can not have a return temperature greater than 50 ° C whatever the valve setting ...
- Put an evacuation under the chimney to do as the condensing boilers.

Conclusion:
For now my opinion on this boiler is quite mitigated because I find the conso quite important (8t / year for the moment even if I hope it will be less with my new settings, and isolating the boiler in a room).
I have my condensation problems to solve if I do not want the acidic water to eat the steel of the boiler.
For what it cost me (+/- 4000E) I have no regrets because it remains 4 x cheaper than other models quotes!)

Try to distinguish two things:

condensation in the duct; it can be boring, but not very serious: in particular, with time, the formation of saltpeter that can cross the woods; be careful if the chimney is attached to walls: saltpeter traces, black marks may appear in the rooms ...

The solution is indeed the casing, with condensate collection down ...

- condensation in the boiler: if indeed your returns are too cold and if your boiler temperature drops below approximately 60 °, you may have condensations in the boiler when it is running "at idle"; you will then have the formation of "bistre" (a sticky mixture of particles of coal and water, which, not drying out, forms black patches of patches). But above all, this condensate is acidic and in the long run (it can take 6 or 8 years!), It can pierce your steel heating body ...

The 4 channel valve, by raising the return temperature, can help. But you have to check if it's enough!

[Christophe]

Thank you for this feedback.

Indeed the consomation seems to me elevated too ... how is the heat diffused? You said you had electric heating before you had to do a hydraulic network?

Good regulation is I think to think and set up both production and distribution ...

[boutkiller]

Try to distinguish two things:

condensation in the duct; it can be boring, but not very serious: in particular, with time, the formation of saltpeter that can cross the woods; be careful if the chimney is attached to walls: saltpeter traces, black marks may appear in the rooms ...

The solution is indeed the casing, with condensate collection down ...

- condensation in the boiler: if indeed your returns are too cold and if your boiler temperature drops below approximately 60 °, you may have condensations in the boiler when it is running "at idle"; you will then have the formation of "bistre" (a sticky mixture of particles of coal and water, which, not drying out, forms black patches of patches). But above all, this condensate is acidic and in the long run (it can take 6 or 8 years!), It can pierce your steel heating body ...

The 4 channel valve, by raising the return temperature, can help. But you have to check if it's enough!

Actually, my casing is stainless steel so no problem, it's just annoying to have to empty the basins of water because it can condense several liters per day in slow motion!

By cons I also condensation inside and as you say, it can pierce my boiler. The manufacturer indicates a minimum return to have 57 ° C. I reach the 50 ° C lightly. The current setting of the 4 channel valve is in the 8 position. This is the position on which I get to have a return temperature on the highest boiler.

My installation is the one on the following shema, it is the shema advocated by the manufacturer:



The problem of this assembly is that by decreasing the value of the 4 channel valve (it is graduated from 1 to 9), the recirculation becomes greater in the radiator circuit, but as the circulator is in the ratiating loop, the flow of recirculation to the boiler decreases and it arrives very quickly overheating, and this while having a low return temperature (less than 50 ° C). Whatever the position of the valve, I can not increase my return temperature to more than 50 ° C while theoretically, by lowering its value, from 9 to 1, it should increase the boiler return temperature.

The configuration I want to try is to place the circulator on the returns instead of departure. This will allow me to be able to decrease the value of the valve 4 way while keeping a sufficient flow in the boiler, thus to spare to remain above 57 ° C:



What do you think?

[boutkiller]

Thank you for this feedback.

Indeed the consomation seems to me elevated too ... how is the heat diffused? You said you had electric heating before you had to do a hydraulic network?

Good regulation is I think to think and set up both production and distribution ...

As I insulated my floor, I put all my multilayer pipes in the floors and partitions.
I have 1 collector go and 1 collector back near my boiler and all the radiators are in parallel.
No regulation and it is thermostatic faucets on each radiator.
For the moment the temperature of my radiator circuit is 70-80 ° C, it is too high for my taste but I cannot adjust my 4-way valve otherwise => impossible to reduce this temperature without reducing that of the returns on the boiler.
Like you I think that a good regulation could slightly reduce my consumption, but I must first solve my problem of condensation in the boiler.
My boiler is equipped with a controller that can manage a motorized 4 channel with temple sensors on start and return. It also controls the circulator, and I can connect an indoor thermostat.
So I still have enough to learn by testing all that!

[boutkiller]

Hello,

Here is a feedback that promises to be interesting.

Would you have some pictures of the beast so that we can get an idea?

Thank you in advance.

I'm moving at this moment so we'll have to wait a bit for the photos ...
Otherwise it's the same as this one:

[boutkiller]

Here are the pictures of my installation:

[boutkiller]

The configuration I want to try is to place the circulator on the returns instead of departure. This will allow me to be able to decrease the value of the valve 4 way while keeping a sufficient flow in the boiler, thus to spare to remain above 57 ° C:

Here I am back, I made the modification of the position of the circulator as on the shema above.

This allowed me to increase the temperature back to my boiler, from 52 to 62 °, since I no longer have condensation in the chimney or in the boiler, even when it is idling.
It also allowed me to lower the set temperature of the boiler and thus reduce the flow temperature from 80 to 68 °.

I think that having reduced the starting temperature of 12 ° will significantly reduce my consumption of grannulé. We'll see that in a few months.

Otherwise my conso of grannulés on winter 2013 / 2014 was 6-7 t.

[belladonna]

Hello boutkiller,
here is a person who interests me, I intend to buy the same, but in 25KW, cons I want to use mainly with wood and occasionally in pelet.
can you tell me if you have used wood and if so commentse it does, at point of view regulation
please