bellad wrote:Hello boutkiller,
here is a person who interests me, I intend to buy the same, but in 25KW,
watch out for oversizing! what motivates your decision to take a 25kw?
boutkiller wrote:
Here I am back, I made the modification of the position of the circulator as on the shema above.
This allowed me to increase the temperature back to my boiler, from 52 to 62 °, since I no longer have condensation in the chimney or in the boiler, even when it is idling.
It also allowed me to lower the set temperature of the boiler and thus reduce the flow temperature from 80 to 68 °.
I think that having reduced the starting temperature of 12 ° will significantly reduce my consumption of grannulé. We'll see that in a few months.
Otherwise my conso of grannulés on winter 2013 / 2014 was 6-7 t.
dirk pitt wrote:bellad wrote:Hello boutkiller,
here is a person who interests me, I intend to buy the same, but in 25KW,
watch out for oversizing! what motivates your decision to take a 25kw?
Did67 wrote:1) If your boiler does not have integrated relief, a return temperature measurement loop is missing: you must "disconnect" your outlets / returns to the heating circuits and the boiler:
bellad wrote:Hello boutkiller,
here is a person who interests me, I intend to buy the same, but in 25KW, on the other hand I will want to use it mainly with wood and occasionally in pellet.
can you tell me if you used wood and if so how does it behave, in terms of regulation
please
Did67 wrote:
I had lost sight of this thread!
1) If your boiler does not have integrated relief, a return temperature measurement loop is missing: you must "disconnect" your outlets / returns to the heating circuits and the boiler:
- on one side, a flow / return circuit, with its circulator after the valve, which can "turn" in a loop
- on the other hand, a "bypass" from the hot flow to the return, with at the intersection, a V3V calibrated at 60 °
2) Do not confuse temperature and energy ...
Your consumption will depend on the calories that your house loses. And that!
You can heat with a 25 ° flow, with a large flow and large surface emitters (floors) or 60 °, with a lower flow and small surface radiators. In both cases, if your indoor temperature is the same, the consumption will be the same.
The consumption of pellets is the flow X temperature screen (between flow and return).
A warmer start is often also a warmer return and a lower flow rate (the valves close more often)!
This is a classic confusion.
When we think of garnished conso, it is aut to think of "heat leaks" from the house.
The boiler only adapts its production to demand ... energy.
boutkiller wrote:
For the consumption it will depend as you say on what the house loses in calories, but in my case, the boiler is outside, and the pipes pass in places that I do not wish to heat (roof spaces) therefore more my the radiator circuit will be cold, the less calories I will lose through the pipes.
Otherwise on the condensation, I got excited a little quickly, with the circulator on the return I condense less, but it still happens that it condenses in the chimney in mild weather.
As this boiler does not have automatic ignition, I think it is inevitable if only to keep a minimum of permanent combustion, I estimate the minimum consumption at around 20-25 kg per day. In this case I stop it completely and I heat myself with my wood stove.
Did67 wrote:
2) For condensation, the "fire maintenance" should play a trick on you too ... This small fire gives off water vapor, but is probably not sufficient to keep your boiler in temperature ...
The solution would have been a double circuit, as I had suggested:
- on the one hand, a relief loop, with a calibrated thermostat (like the kits called laddomat, but we can very well build it with standard parts); suddenly, this side there, your boiler would maintain its temperature above 60 °
- on the other side, a V3V with the radiator loop; positioned so that you have precisely the minimum temperature just necessary to heat with a maximum flow
What does the manual recommend ????
Because there, you just have to hope that it will resist corrosion ... At worst, in 6 or 8 years, it is pierced!
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