Ökofen boiler: reflection on settings and DHW production

[Mowane]

Hello,

I am the happy owner of a PE25 for a few weeks now.

I have traveled a lot of son and I allow myself to recreate one (given the sometimes impressive number of post)

for the moment, I mostly watch and I try to adjust my heating curves, but the good weather is coming, it takes a little more time.

Basically, I observe quite short cycles (13 min on average) which seems to be the case of a lot of people at first.
I also imagine that warm temperatures participate in this.

I put here some of my settings, if you ever had changes to offer me

Tint comfort 20 °
Tint reduces 16 °
comfort comfort 18 °
reduced lim 0 °

1,2 water law
fixed point 35 (only parameter I changed, initially to 40)
3 compensation (but I do not have the inner probe yet)

in the pellmatic menu
ECS ++ 10 °
Tmin hot 60 °
Hot Tmax 95 °
lim pump 60 °

Heating
Max start 75,5 °
T min 20 °
heating ++ 5 °

ECS
priority ECS ++ 10 °
Templating 10min
Hyst 5
Inactive loopback pump

P263 70 °
P281 60 °

Basically, the boiler is triggered around 60 ° (pellet control bar max), to turn off to 70 ° (4 pellet control bars)
in general
P162 7 / 8

If I understood correctly
you have to set your curves correctly first
then we can
- decrease p263
- increase ECS ++ (to increase the shutdown temperature of the boiler)


On the other hand, I noticed something strange (?) Concerning the ECS
Tcons 45 ° (it's not a bit weak ???)
Tmin 30 °
ECS range 18h-20h

what was my surprise today to hear the boiler start (it is still 22 ° outside)
the heater was 57 °, the lamp request burner is triggered, and the ECS pump opens
on the ball, I had about 45 °, but on the menu ECS, I see 31,9 °

the boiler heats for fifteen minutes to bring the TECS measured to 36 °, then stops (it will go up to 40 °)
at the balloon, my thermostat has moved only 5 ° ...

in total, it worked for 15 min to heat my 5 ° balloon ...

then, is the temp min too low (30 °), but also, why a difference between the temperature measured by the probe and that displayed by the thermostat?

and for later, how to operate the DHW mode alone as best as possible during periods when it is possible to stop the heating?

I recognize that this message is a bit long, and I apologize in advance.

Thank you very much

Have a good day

[roy1361]

.
.
Hello and welcome to the wonderful world of pellet ...

As for the settings of the heating curves and others, I leave the place to the specialists of the mark (I do not own this mark). They are awesome to know and skill ...

On the other hand, for the following question:

... and for later, how to operate the DHW mode alone as best as possible during periods when it is possible to stop the heating?

You will be able to get a basic idea about this link: http://forums.futura-sciences.com/habit ... esioe.html

A+

[dirk pitt]

several thoughts about your heating of the ECS:

First, in summer, heating the ball pellets is not necessarily very interesting unless you have a very big balloon that is heated with a single start boiler, a eule time per day.
it is necessary that the boiler warms all its own volume of water. I also advise during this summer period to put the DHW circulator on the maximum speed to quickly transfer heat to the balloon. I saw my boiler start cold, go up to 60 ° C, then run the circulation pump and then stop at 75 ° C while the balloon is not yet completely hot. pity. the power pump by the balloon and much lower than the heating circuit. it must be increased by increasing the flow. that may be what happened to you with your boiler stop at the end of 15mn (the boiler temperature might have been max)
this is not true in the winter, when we want the DHW priority not to pump all the heat from the heating circuit.
for my part, I have a bi-energy balloon and I stop the boiler in the summer to heat the water at nuk

Then, you must elucidate the difference in the measurement of your balloon. probably that measurements are not made at the same place in the ball (up, down, middle)

last point on ECS schedules. in winter, it is necessary to prioritize ECS time slots inside the heating zones to avoid starting only for the ECS. it is necessary that the ECS beach starts at least one hour after the heating beach if not gla-gla.
in summer only one ECS beach a little long and well chosen in relation to the habits of conso of ECS.
for the ECS temperature value, 50 at 55 ° is not bad for not having too much thermal losses. activate the anti-legionellosis system that heats 65 ° once a week.

[Did67]

1) Short cycles: a) the season is short cycle, because need low chubbing (given the outside temperatures).

b) maybe 25 kW is too much! What climate, what surface, what level of insulation ...

25 kW, for me it is 300 m² moderately isolated

2) I have to take out my instructions, but a priori you have a "maxi boiler" of 70 °, which is low. Suddenly, you play on a narrow control field: 60 to 70. You can go to 75 ° without any difficulty (this must even be the factory setting).

3) After, I am still as much dropped with the temp ++ of the new white regulator !!!

4) The setting of the waterfall curve has nothing to do with the parameters of the waterway: the waterway prepares hot water; the regul is responsible for using it intelligently.

The heating curve setting is based on the following principle:

- the regul calculates the starting time of the water to compensate for the losses of the house

- it is necessary to regulate without other contributions that the heating - rather gray time, no stove, etc ...)

- you put on the regul the desired times (instructions); eg 20 ° day / 17 ° night

- you observe and correct by the slope and the fixed point, until at equilibrium, therefore after a sufficient time, you have well the desired 20 °

In cold weather (less than + 5 ° C), you only modify the slope: you mount it by folding 0,2 if you do not warm enough, you drop it if you get too hot.

In "mild" weather (these days; well, me, I stopped; last week therefore):

- too hot, you drop the fixed point of 5 ° and you climb the slope of 0,2

- too cold, you climb the fixed point of 5 ° and you drop the slope of 0,2

Sooner or later, by doing so, you will end up having the right slope / right foot curve. It's just a question of patience.

It is possible, and it is normal, that you have to return on it as soon as it will be very cold.

Dirk has put somewhere an excel "calculator" table of these parameters following readings. This is another method.

[Mowane]

With regard to the ECS

The probe is in the middle and the thermostat light is at the top ... maybe that's it

I have a triple energy balloon (not sure of the exact name) but it is not connected, I would see with the dealer okofen if it is possible, because even if it is not the panacea, it may be better than letting the boiler run
No solar panels yet, it's under study (hence the purchase of triple energy balloon from the outset)


Regarding the cahudiere, I also thought that 25kw was a lot but the simulation on the site okofen and the opinion of the dealer tended to that

It is a 1875 house, uninsulated walls, no (yet) double glazing and no (yet) roof insulation (project with cellulose wading in progress)
Surface 140m2 (attic + 80m2) with large volumes (ceilings between 3,5 and 5m at the bottom, 2,5m at the top ...
We'll see next winter whether to clamp down or not ...

[Mowane]

And the climate: I live in Belgium, rather inland (near Lille) and at sea level

[dedeleco]

Not insulated, thick walls in what, thickness?
At random you will not need to bridle, even after insulation roofs and roof, the most urgent before winter, then the walls (difficult), well before the double glazing to do last!

Before, how much did you spend on heating or those before you ???
It was heated how formerly, in 1875, wood, fireplace open at 15% yield at how many steres a year ???

At random, a chasm with calories !!
And the current solar is negligible amount in comparison as it is not isolated.


Learn a max on heating and insulation to spot you.

[Mowane]

Brick wall, 40cm thick (+ cob and coated inside but good ...)
Unspecified external insulation

previous consumption: no idea, it was a house not inhabited since 3 years
the previous occupants were visibly warming with a wood stove, there must have been an oil boiler because we found pipes, but no tank ...
Basically, there was no heating system (central or other) ...

for the solar, I consider it only in production ECS, not in heating (and still, it is to rip)

[dedeleco]

Brick wall, 40cm thick

Insulation much better than massive granite !! Hollow brick of 1875 ????

Originally, people lived colder than us.

How big is the woodstove?
He had to heat the main room and a little upstairs.

You must have a nice invoice Okof plus radiators and pellets stock.

Insulate especially the top, attic and roof, which will make a nice cost-effective economy and flexible joints to windows and doors if cold drafts.
After a winter, you will see to isolate more, at the rudimentary pitch, 6 tons of pellets for the winter, even 2 3 tons more without lonely roofs.

To see the more precise testimonies on econology;

[Mowane]

2) I have to take out my instructions, but a priori you have a "maxi boiler" of 70 °, which is low. Suddenly, you play on a narrow control field: 60 to 70. You can go to 75 ° without any difficulty (this must even be the factory setting).

Indeed, it stops at 70 °, I looked a little 2 level settings
but on which to play exactly to increase the Tcons boiler: the ECS ++ or the heating ++?