Boiler ÖkoFEN pelematic principles of regulation

[fbedon]

Hello,
yes, excuse me P170 = 1
and P263 = 68 ° C
Fred

[Did67]

And the P202 stayed on 76 ° ????

So here I dry!

If the P170 is on 1, it means that it must not stop on order of the Pelletropnic but when the maximum temp is reached. And it is configurable to P202.

So logically, the board should "obey": turn on if there is a need for heating, operate up to 76 ° and start the shutdown procedure!

So if the P202 is of course 76 °, I dry!

[fbedon]

Hello,
I recognize that the argument of the fastest possible evacuation of the calories produced is convincing ...
I will continue my surveys and tests.
Fred

[fbedon]

Hi everybody,
I made measurements of consumption of pellets coordinated with the counting of the turns of screws.
It gives :
9.28 km for 14.5 bags and a perimeter set to 4.999m and a top per lap.
which makes 2321 turns for 217 kg or 93.7 g / revolution.
either 23.5 kg / km or 1 bag for 0.64 km.

It is about 2 times more than a measure announced above by Bunny 67 ...
Who can decide us?
Fred

[fbedon]

Hi everybody,
I connected my boiler PE25 to my hot water tank associated with my solar panels, before this complement was done with a gas boiler.
It works properly, I just have to add an anti-thermosiphon valve on my heating circuit which tends to circulate alone when the circulation circulator ECS turns, it's weird I thought the V3V was waterproof.

But I have a strange behavior of the black regulation, I find myself often, even systematically with the tap symbol barred up close to the hour, I revalidate and it starts again, but it is de-valid all alone, probably the next day .
What could cause that?
I searched the doc and the forum no result.
Is there a summer mode to set?
Should the use in ESC mode be indicated to the controller other than by pressing the tap / tap key?
Thank you for your help.
Fred

[Did67]

Do you speak about the ancient TEM regulation ???

The crossed out tap would have said that your programming is in "non-preparation" period.

You can force this programming by pressing the button with a stopcock / stopcock: it is then forcing for a single preparation cycle! Normal, this is done for the case where you have an "abnormal" need for DHW and there is none left! So this case, you go down, you "force" a blow on purpose, and the system is designed so that you don't forget to deactivate!

There, I suspect that you are still in "normal" mode, heating and DHW activated. The cursor is under the "on / off" symbol ???

The "summer" mode is by placing the cursor under the umbrella ! With the button that allows you to switch from one mode to another. At this time, the heating is deactivated and only the preparation of the DHW will be done, according to the programming.

So start there: put your boiler in "summer" mode with only DHW preparation.

Then you program the ECS preparation period.

If you have a mixed tank, with the solar hot water coil at the bottom and the coil connected to the boiler at the bottom, I hope you have your DHW sensor in the middle.

If this is the case, the most sincere is to program your boiler to complete the evening to 20 h. If the ball has reached the minimum temperature thanks to the sun, the boiler will not start. This will be the case in good weather.

If it is cloudy and you have consumed your ECS, the boiler will start.

So put your ECS programming for example on 20 h - 22 h (after the sun / before the evening showers)

Finally, you set the DHW temperature. In summer, put a low ECS temp. The minimum that the family supports. Genus 40 °. This means that if the sun has heated up to 40 ° mini, the boiler will not start (for not much!).

[In the winter, when the boiler is in chill mode, it will not start for DHW; there, I recommend you go back to 60 °; as you will have more reserve (the same amount of water, but hotter, it will last longer!).

[Did67]

Is there a summer mode to set?
Should the use in ESC mode be indicated to the controller other than by pressing the tap / tap key?
Thank you for your help.
Fred

So formally yes and yes, you have it I hope I understood.

You confuse with forcing.

The mode of operation is in the very first chapters of the manual.

[fbedon]

Hi,
thank you to both, I think I put my controller in summer mode, in fact the umbrella is the only icon that refuses to be highlighted, but I think it comes from the display.

For the rest, my probe is in the middle of my balloon, and I completely built the system, so I trigger the boiler booster at the end of the solar period.
I better understand the barred tap out of periods of preparation.
I'll see what happens over several days.
Fred

[Did67]

in fact the umbrella is the only icon that refuses to be highlighted, but I think it comes from the display.

I would say :

- or she refuses to be underlined, but the position is taken into account (it would then be a problem of display): it would be OK

- either you "jump" this position, and you have to see why, otherwise, you are in "heating" mode all summer, just to prepare the DHW; as soon as you pass under one of the "heating limits", you risk having triggered the heating ... for nothing.

The fact that you will have ECS will not tell you; also in "heating" mode, it will prepare the DHW!

It's your story about the heating circuit, which is hot, which questions me. I will have to go and see on mine if in "parasol" mode, the V3V closes or if it remains in the last position before switching to "summer" mode?

[fbedon]

Did67 thank you,
my V3V is in the closed position, but do not have to be completely waterproof. I will add a valve or simply close the valve on the heating circuit in the summer.

Side umbrella icon, I do not think I jump (rebound contact) because it is systematic, I have a second regulation, I'll see what done.

Someone of you already has two regulators in master / slave? I would be interested to be able to configure at a distance, but I have the impression that it is rather done to have a second boiler driven by the first, am I wrong?
Fred