Blade of ventilated air in stone house

[Bushka]

Correction of point 5:
On the sauna side, vertical Douglas fir cleats would be fixed only at the top and bottom, on two horizontal rails, riveted to the ceiling and to the floor of the sauna (which is raised by 65 cm, above a crawl space: see plans) . The coaming is therefore not necessary

[Bushka]

Hello,
You told me that there could be a leaking water pipe in the area and that it was necessary to investigate with the water service. I did it. Nothing to report. In addition, this public network passes more than 20 m from the wall in question and at a lower level (not "in the lower part" of the wall).

There are no other leaks, as there is no water distribution pipe linked to this wall. Nor among the neighbors. Two rainwater evacuation routes are to be checked. It's planned for next Thursday.

As for the pipes which will supply the swimming pool, they do not yet exist and their future point of origin is itself very distant. So I did not check if a virtual osmosis could be the cause of the current humidity.

It seems to me that the problem is as follows:
Is there a way to dress the walls (insulation and finishing)
allowing not to wait for their drying after casing,
drying in front then take place slowly outwards?

Here are the plans, schematic diagrams and photos (those of the court included):
https://www.flickr.com/photos/7249747@N ... 6437886795

Here is the solution that I submit to your appreciation:
Inside :
1) Injection of hydrophobic resin (for porous stone walls) 1,60 m high
+ continuously with vertical injections on the side walls, 50 cm from the corner
+ continuously with injections 12 cm from the ground at the base of the other walls.
2) Casing of the wet wall over its entire height and casing of the side walls on these 50 cm.
3) As it is not possible to wait for the drying of the casing for more than a month, this drying should be accelerated, knowing that the room, not yet having a window, is in the open air:
- by inserting wall drains on the external face (“SPI®” atmospheric siphons fitted with internal 5-volt fans)?
- by heating the room during these 15 days by means of an air heater?
>> Do you recommend other drying methods?
4) Since the casing coating must still be able to breathe, the best insulator would perhaps be Poratec, in 5 cm, glued directly on it (without pegs so as not to pierce the casing), because Poratec (lightweight cellular concrete) allows this breathing (which would gradually dry it out, ventilation helping).
5) On the sauna side, vertical Douglas fir cleats would be fixed only at the top and bottom, on two horizontal rails, riveted to the ceiling and to the floor of the sauna (which is raised by 65 cm).
6) The paneling in abachi would be fixed (in horizontal installation) on these vertical battens, a ventilation being induced from bottom to top (air inlet under the plinth and outlet under the ceiling).
7) VMI Helios (by insufflation) instead of VMC, because the air is then stirred down to its smallest recesses in addition to being able to be heated (dried).

Outside :
- Waterproof the buried part (2 crossed layers of lime)
- Waterproof the buried part (glued bituminous membrane)
- Remove the visible part of the wall and replace it with a lime-sand plaster (NHL 2)
- Join (lime + sand) cobblestones and slabs covering the court floor
- Insert wall drains on the outside (SPI® fitted with internal fans)

PS:
I am thinking of opting for Poratec, because I was told that the insulation must absolutely be in contact with the masonry, a lining partition with air gap can cause two serious problems:
1) The wall being cold and the circulating air being hot and humid, there would be condensation, increasing the humidity of the wall instead of drying it.
2) This would promote the development of fungi, including the merule (devastating fungus).

The airtightness of the room would be ensured by Poratec directly glued to the casing. The only air that circulates between the wood paneling and Poratec is to prevent mold on the back of the wood, as in the installation of any wood paneling.

Whatever my mental state, that is not the question.
When people call me for a computer problem, it would never occur to me to treat them with such irony. Even if they put forward hypotheses indicating their incompetence in the matter.

>> Please just tell me where you see a bug, because I can't see it.

[Obamot]

Two rainwater evacuation routes are to be checked. It's planned for next Thursday.

You are at V.10 (of your project / or in progress?) And the "causes" are still not completely identified / eliminated!

That is all I can say about it.

[Bushka]

The two rainwater drainage channels are in perfect condition.

[Obamot]

Ok, so we would have 2 causes eliminated ... (arrival / s and drainage of water ...)

The foundations it is essential in a house, these cases of water infiltration are always very important cases. The same goes for the safety of the occupants of the house!

How strange it all seems to me, what I would do if it were my house: I would excavate to the foundations (exterior and interior side), control how much they suffered (if yes ... or not ). I would also take a densitometer reading to see the sinking with a given load, which would give me a clue about the portability of the terrain and ruled out a possibility like that of seeing a maions engulf (it has already been seen)

Well obliged to excavate to dislodge, isn't it ...!?
And so the humidity would go away.

After that it would be according to what we discover below.
This is what I would do in such a case and nothing else.

Because it is useless to treat without wanting to see what is happening below ground level, period! ^^
Everything else is pure speculation (and amha) because then you will "load" moisture inside.
Since you MUST therefore have a HEALTHY basis.

[Obamot]

What happens when standards are not met:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4PzRB-Ia_KE&feature=youtu.be&t=3m41s

[Bushka]

Thank you very much.
I don't understand what it means to "load" moisture inside.

[Bushka]

Hello,
As the cause seems to be the massive impregnation on the ground of the courtyard by rainwater, I have just been suggested to close the courtyard by means of a polycarbonate canopy, placed 3 m high.
Does the idea sound good to you?
Goods.

[Obamot]

Oh yes, good idea if the whole courtyard is covered, of course! (And if no other unforeseen phenomenon arising out of nowhere) ^^

[Bushka]

Thank you. I will keep you posted.