Basic rules of the automated ball burner

Heating, insulation, ventilation, VMC, cooling ... short thermal comfort. Insulation, wood energy, heat pumps but also electricity, gas or oil, VMC ... Help in choosing and implementation, problem solving, optimization, tips and tricks ...
the middle
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Basic rules of the automated ball burner




by the middle » 03/11/09, 00:26

Hello,
It is not easy to speak of basic rules in this area, quite simply there are several designs of burners.
Whatever, it will always lead to good things.
I believe that the first rule is security: or security.
In the event of flame extinction, the compressor must stop as quickly as possible (so as not to drown the boiler : Cheesy: , and also not to smoke the neighborhood.
For this security, there are various means: optical cell
Noise detector
Regulator with thermal probe placed at the outlet of the boiler, etc ...
It would also be good to have a stop in the event of a flame that is too large (these things can happen on a ball burner)
If the flame gets too big for one reason or another, the carburetor becomes bad, and causes a lot of problems.
When we have that, we can start playing :D
Regarding the nozzle that serves as a flame holder, I do not like thick nozzles, because they can blush, and if the flame goes out, there is a large release of smoke for a long time, and in addition it can cause an explosion.
Many other safety devices can be installed, but are generally more personalized and adapted to each type of burner.
For the moment, I am speaking mainly of generalities.
The rest another day, to talk about the very construction of the burner.
If someone sees other important security to talk about, now is the time.
:D
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boubka
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by boubka » 03/11/09, 10:42

hello lejuste


In the event of flame extinction, the compressor must stop as quickly as possible (so as not to drown the Cheesy Grin boiler, and also so as not to smoke around.

Regarding the nozzle that serves as a flame holder, I do not like thick nozzles, because they can blush, and if the flame goes out, there is a large release of smoke for a long time, and in addition it can cause an explosion.


stop the oil :!:

If the flame gets too big for one reason or another, the carburetor becomes bad, and causes a lot of problems.

pb unknown with me ... with the fan the flame is in such exes of air that at the slightest adjustment it goes out.
It never happens to me unless I do it voluntarily ... but I plan to put a pressure switch on the fan for extra safety.


If someone sees other important security to talk about, now is the time.
Very Happy

no oil tank heated under the burner without cover with small vent,
possibly fire protection on the oil return and cover temperature control (klixon) in case of fire in the "bowl"
using good fittings is to avoid serflex collars (leaky nest).
I also have a second hole in front of the oil return in the event of a very unlikely clogging (1/2 "tube) of the oil return ...
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the middle
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by the middle » 03/11/09, 12:25

Quote:
In the event of flame extinction, the compressor must stop as quickly as possible (so as not to drown the Cheesy Grin boiler, and also so as not to smoke around.

Quote:
Regarding the nozzle that serves as a flame holder, I do not like thick nozzles, because they can blush, and if the flame goes out, there is a large release of smoke for a long time, and in addition it can cause an explosion.


stop the oil Exclamation

And now, it depends on the system used with the burner.
In my case, the oil flows continuously on the ball, even when stopped.
So, if there is a flame arrest, the removal of air on the ball instantly stops the spraying of the oil. (it's the simplest in my configuration)
Now cutting off the oil on the ball should work just as well.
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boubka
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by boubka » 03/11/09, 19:18

If someone sees other important security to talk about, now is the time.
Very Happy

to consider all cases ... it may be that ... the fire starts in the burner it is there that it is imperative to cut the oil so as not to feed it.
I plan to put a 80 degree klicxon (found in lots of household appliances) on the body of my burner (I put my hand on it in fct)
another solution is to put a tin wire (in series with the secu) in the body of the burner, naturally in tbt.

the smoke temperature safety pleases me well so I'm going to smell it in addition to the cell.
anyway I was planning to put a pt 100 probe to know the smoke temperatures. my boiler is not ideal for this type of burner and in fact fct the temperature may limit the draft

other essential secu c is a thermostat or safety klixon on the "bowl" in case of malfunction of the regulator thermostat

a secu of lack of oil (tempo) can be put on the float to avoid "burning" the transfer pump

c is pretty much all that i see, it should be enough .... but we can always add co detector, auto extinction, etc ...
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by the middle » 03/11/09, 23:39

: Cheesy: for the question of seeing the chimney temp, I have a small wireless camera, which transmits to me the image of this temp on my TV.
Image
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by the middle » 04/11/09, 10:32

If there are other security criteria in the future, we can always use the edit function. (History of grouping all the info)
Now let's talk about the basics of having a + - stable flame at startup, and in operation.
There, there will be matter for discussion, contradictions, and perhaps errors of judgment. (Pardon in advance)
You must have had a lot of problems to be able to judge a system, and more ...
I will try to limit myself to talking about the principle of continuous oil flow of oil on the ball, even when stopped.
You need a ball (an ovoid shape should work too) of steel, copper, brass or other metal which resists temperature and which will transform the oil into a uniform film in front of the hole in the ball.
The front of the ball will have a hole which will allow a jet of air which is used to spray the oil.
This orifice will be a crack (which I don't really like because it can partially clog up and make an unstable flame). Or simply a round hole whose diameter rotates between a few tenths of a mm, and 1 mm. (it's the easiest)
The smaller the hole, the higher the air pressure for spraying.
The advantage of using a hole less than 1 mm will be explained by Bouka I hope.
In the case of my burner, the hole is 1mm in diameter and allows the use of a refrigerator compressor. (Low power consumption, and little noise)
The diameter of the ball is around 16-17 mm in general, but ultimately, I don't know what the lower and upper limits are.
The oil arrives on the ball by a small pipe of + - 4mm inside; too small, it may clog, too large, the oil supply will not be correct on the ball.
The best for an oil arrival at the level of the ball, is to be able to adjust it from front to back and also transversely.
Oil flow should be as stable as possible
The oil temperature also must be as stable as possible. (60 ° c in my case), with rapeseed oil.
You can work at different temperatures, but the higher the temperature, the easier the ignition.
The higher the oil temperature, the greater the energy consumption
The higher the oil temperature, the better the spraying into fine droplets (but there is room for discussion in this case)
The oil flow (in liters per hour) on a ball of + - 16mm revolves around…. Good question.
In any case, the ball must constantly be wetted by the flow of oil, which is visually verified on the head of the ball, and on the oil return, we should see a trickle of oil running down The ball.
The oil return after the ball is done by a large enough hose, to avoid a possible obstruction of this one. (16mm inside diameter should be sufficient)
The air flow through the ball hole must be as stable as possible
The flame hook:
Very important also, in the configuration of my burner, the most suitable is a reduction in stainless steel chimney, placed at + -2cm from the ball (to see)
Dimensions: large diameter 153 mm, small diameter 130mm, length, + - 200mm
You must try to keep the flame as far away from the ball as possible, this can be done by moving the flame hook away from it. The goal is to keep the immediate interior of the ball clean (carbonization of the oil on the oil inlet or on the walls surrounding the ball)
A small conical deflector of oil burner placed just at the exit of the ball can also protect the interior of the ball (under test with me)
Some pictures follow
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the middle
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by the middle » 04/11/09, 11:01

Dirty ball interior, which causes problems, we can see a small black grime that changes the oil flow in front of the hole in the ball:
Image
Small deflector placed in front of the ball to avoid carbonization of the interior of the ball, it seems to work, BUT, there is condensation of oil on the bottom walls ... not well .. (I suspect the piece of sheet metal in front of the ball's interior, creating bad turbulence .... problem, I cannot remove it; but I can reduce it.
In any case, the interior of the ball does not seem to clog anymore.
Image
Photo of the flame hook, + a piece which is placed against the boiler door, and which is used to prevent the flame from returning to the ball interior; in addition this assembly makes ventury.
Image
Here is the room:
Image
The conical deflector recovered from an oil burner
You will notice the abnormal fouling; I have a problem to solve there.
Image
Despite the frightening fouling, I have a very stable flame and little noise.
On the other hand, unburned oil is at the bottom of the boiler, the problem is in the photos.
But hey, it doesn't bother the functioning of the system
When I go to work, I cut the aquastat from the boiler, and when I come back, I start it and at 1/4 of a second, it starts.
My machine is not perfect, but I at least have the courage to admit its faults

: Cheesy:
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boubka
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by boubka » 04/11/09, 13:32

hello lejuste
here are the photos after a good hundred hours of walking.
the nozzle: slight fouling of hard white-white particles.
nickel tee, ball and electrodes.
Image
on the other hand there is oil at the bottom of the hearth and it hardly pleases me, I will work on it, I think I have the solution
to be continued...
Image
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the middle
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by the middle » 04/11/09, 13:36

Hello Boubka, (I like your hello :D )
Indeed, your photos are good proof of good health of your burner
Such, I must leave
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the middle
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by the middle » 04/11/09, 15:01

: Shock: hey ho !, it's oil, not diesel : Cheesy:
The complexity is much greater.
thank you for your photos for those who read us in the shade, and who have a great need for our experiences.
There is a lot of oil thrown in the sewers (it's true!)
A Chinese restaurant told me, I quote "I prefer to throw my oil in the garden, rather than pour it in your stupid cans"
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