- For the mass stove, if the FIREPLACE is small, it is 3x more efficient! Logs, he uses 3x less - as fuel - than pellets as I understand it. Reason why this requires a focus of only 60cm x 60cm x 60cm (there are some with larger focus, but it is better a small focus for a good print as I understand ...). With 1 at 2 outbreaks that last 1 at 2x1,5h a day, that's enough to heat the building ...
Associated with a well-made ITE + double window and thermal shutters, it is really VERY economical in use. But I have the same problem as Neonavy, I would like - for example - a "programmable mass pellet stove" if possible in self-construction, in which I can also put logs when I'm there ... ^^
@ Neonavy & to all:
PAC (Heat Pump)
- The idea of the ITE + mass stove is precisely there to do without a PAC ...! O_ °
- The difference between a mass stove and a single pellet stove, is the benefit of the inertia of the mass stove that weighs 2T: because with a peak at approx. 1'200 ° C inside - this temperature is not dissipated but accumulated and then slowly re-diffused for more than a day - almost all the heat is used to heat the rack, so excess heat is not dissipated in the smoke, since the smoke coming out of the circuit is at a relatively low temperature!
- For the swimming pool, the idea in my post was to make it "an element of the decor", by making it penetrate from the outside, towards the inside of the current building (did I express myself badly? instead of "hiding" it but it's up to you to see if you prefer to show the garden .... why not ... notice that the garden is not green at least 4 months a year.)
Sub-roof:
- To isolate a "skylight" I would drop, LED lighting by 10W projector is sufficient for a bathroom and we do not stay there for long so very low expenditure.
- The sandwich panels are thremoconductibles, you're right, we must be wary, it is useless. Moreover, if it is glass wool inside, after 30ans it is cooked / damn. Let's say that 300mm under-roof (possibly double cross layer of 150mm, but it doubles the work of installation) it corresponds better to 200mm of panels of LDV in frontage (because in under-roofing one always puts some more)! But be careful: protection of rigor with suit, boots gloves and glasses ... The best choice for the under-roof is cellulose wadding, amha (IMHO). No matter what you choose, do not forget the vapor barrier (kind of kraft paper embedded in mineral wool if it's your choice)
Multi-stage construction
- Note that if you do the work in several stages, you will have to stop the insulation of facade at the pool and garages! Otherwise you will isolate 2x. And do not take advantage of it to do the ITI (Inner Thermal Insulation) at these places, otherwise you will kill the benefit of a good ITE (External Thermal Insulation). I would say the smartest thing, if you want to do it in several steps, it would be to at least mount the walls, because so you could loop your ITE at once and it would be effective until the next step and beyond ... .
Junction design with foundations
- For the risk of flooding on the insulation - I would put in junction with the ground - panels of PE (Extruded polystyrene instead of panels of wool of rock) on a height of 1m at least, so that you would be quiet. Because the slightest soaking in the water of glass wool panels and it is ruined (idem for the roof). Anyway it is better in any case to ensure a junction with a rot-proof material! The top is to excavate the front wall on 50cm, tarring and then put on a Delta MS belt, which will join a strip of 1m PE, on which will be born the rockwool. For the junction between Delta MS and PE I have no idea how to do, maybe a plug of sand between top soil and PE .... To protect with a mortar of the type of one that would extend the facade coating ...? But the facade coating must be airtight below the joint, beware of the finishes! Why put PE 1m will protect rockwool panels!
- Mineral wool (glass or rock) has the advantage of being the cheapest, but it requires precautions of use and application. It is a material that I do not recommend anymore inside since the scandal of the asbestos (our chemist told us that it was better to apply the principle of precaution ... After everyone does as he wants ...)
- If you wish to condemn the natural lighting of the roof (your reasoning stands) and replace it with bay windows, it would be well to count also with shutters-thermal plugs ... (100mm of PE in the shutters which must close hermetically) and of course double argon glazing for your windows.
- the "basero" is a little less good mass stove type "rocker stove"? Anyway, for this type of heating to be interesting, it is better that the fireplace is inside the home, because it can also be used for heating.
- As I saw a construction machine, if it is yours and you do the excavation of the pool yourself, it will cost you less than 50k ..?
- For Synersol, it's really very, very good. But polyurethane foam - in principle - is only made to correct an ITE (make joints, go plug small holes, make repairs, all parsimonious use) .... So what I would do is put a layer of 150mm of PE on the ground, then a parquet or a linoleum OBS parquet. Then you do not need a heated floor anymore! (Attention to the garage and the weight of the vehicles, there I think it should not be put and it would be complicated with your pits). And the underfloor heating, it requires maintenance and not so easy to repair.
=> as an example, the admissible load (following protection of its surface by a floating parquet) for polystyrene panels placed on the floor is very high, of the order of 2T / m2!
http://www.sager.ch/images/upload/Prosp ... _f_753.pdf
Well, it's a step up / down - it removes the last thermal bridge - grueling ?!
