Hello,
I am new on this site - I have read many and very informative messages about the heating curve - We have a ÖkoFEN boiler wood pellet - Getting Started in February 2007, it works well even if there had QLQ pellet quality problems at the start and a change of sensor smoke after repeated stops
- The consumption corresponds to the forecast (estimate made on the Okofen France site) - My question is it possible by adjusting the heating curve to reduce the consumption of pellets.
My house
- Built late thirties
- recent roof insulation and double glazing old
- RC + 2 levels - ceiling height 2.8 m
- cast iron radiators
- ambiance thermostat set to 19.5
- Outside sensor
- lowest temperature recorded at least once a year - 11 °
Adjustment (carried out by the heating engineer)
- 1.2 ° slope
- Maximum limitation of starting water hot 65 °
- flow temperature at the foot of the curve 37 °
- Economic heating limit 20 °
- heating limit in lowering 17 °
- base value optimization time 120 mm
- compensation ambient temperature of 5 °
by checking lately the interior temperature corresponds to the information given to the room thermostat
I thank you for your comments
cordially
Okofen heating curve adjustment, lower consumption?
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- Moderator
- posts: 79129
- Registration: 10/02/03, 14:06
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Uh if you do not give your current consumption of granules we will be hard to help you ...
How many m² are you heated and what climate zone and altitude are you in?
As a reminder to read on https://www.econologie.com/forums/maisons-ne ... t6040.html
How many m² are you heated and what climate zone and altitude are you in?
As a reminder to read on https://www.econologie.com/forums/maisons-ne ... t6040.html
Christophe wrote:1) I don't remember the surface anymore ... 150m² I think ... or 200 kWh EP / m².year we are far from the RT2005 which precisely advocates 130 kWh EP / m².year ... but I suppose that in reality little construction actually does less than 130 kWh (heating set point at 23-24 ° C is not uncommon)
2) RT! Am stupid, the 3 zones H1, H2 and H3 are in the docs on the RT2005 on econo, I remembered more:
https://www.econologie.com/reglementatio ... -3352.html
Et https://www.econologie.com/isolation-res ... -3511.html
Version Article: https://www.econologie.com/rt2005-les-re ... -3512.html
ps: the 2nd picture is knauf insulation, there is no difference between H1 and H2 and the difference is small between 2 and H3 ... I guess knauf swells slightly voluntarily Thermal Resist (which is not very bad...). What do you think Bucheron?
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Do a image search or an text search - Netiquette of forum
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- Moderator
- posts: 79129
- Registration: 10/02/03, 14:06
- Location: Greenhouse planet
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Here is the map of France for the climatic subzones:
You are therefore in Zone H1c without altitude correction (less than 400 m).
Your primary energy consumption is 8000 * 5/180 = 220 kWh / m².year where RT2005 would require (recent house) 130 kWh / m².year.
Your consumption is quite logical to 19.5 ° C with a 1930 building whose walls are not insulated.
I don't know if you can really win by adjusting your boiler differently. It takes a user to ÖkoFEN advise you on this one.
Don't you turn down the heat at night?
You are therefore in Zone H1c without altitude correction (less than 400 m).
Your primary energy consumption is 8000 * 5/180 = 220 kWh / m².year where RT2005 would require (recent house) 130 kWh / m².year.
Your consumption is quite logical to 19.5 ° C with a 1930 building whose walls are not insulated.
I don't know if you can really win by adjusting your boiler differently. It takes a user to ÖkoFEN advise you on this one.
Don't you turn down the heat at night?
0 x
Do a image search or an text search - Netiquette of forum
Hello
I am also new to this forum but after that I understood
if your room temperature is correct (and the comfort is satisfactory) then your heating curve is good.
You could perhaps gain consumption by optimizing the operating time: a good sized pellet boiler and a well-regulated regulation must operate over long periods to be effective
See this topic: https://www.econologie.com/forums/suivi-du-t ... t6424.html
I am also new to this forum but after that I understood
if your room temperature is correct (and the comfort is satisfactory) then your heating curve is good.
You could perhaps gain consumption by optimizing the operating time: a good sized pellet boiler and a well-regulated regulation must operate over long periods to be effective
See this topic: https://www.econologie.com/forums/suivi-du-t ... t6424.html
0 x
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- Moderator
- posts: 79129
- Registration: 10/02/03, 14:06
- Location: Greenhouse planet
- x 10975
Uh, I would not be unpleasant but are you sure you read this: https://www.econologie.com/forums/suivi-du-t ... t6424.html ?
There is also this: https://www.econologie.com/forums/okofen-pel ... t6540.html
Yes it makes a lot of pages to look at ... but to know what you want ...
FRANCK73 wrote:I'm still looking for info on adjusting the Okofen boiler heating curve
FRANCK73 wrote:I thank you also will look at this and expect more information about the heating curve
There is also this: https://www.econologie.com/forums/okofen-pel ... t6540.html
Yes it makes a lot of pages to look at ... but to know what you want ...
Last edited by Christophe the 19 / 11 / 10, 13: 57, 1 edited once.
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Do a image search or an text search - Netiquette of forum
1) Indeed, there are more than 110 pages on the setting. Don't ask us to make the effort to summarize you! Nor to repeat everything that we have already written.
I remain willing to help those who help first ...
2) All the same: the heating curve has no influence on your consumption if you notice that you have the programmed setpoint temperature.
The heating curve will give the regulation the temperature at which it must send the water so that the set temperature is maintained in the house. And basta.
So you put your room sensor "in the middle" (neutral position), if you have one, and you check that if you have "programmed" 19,5, it is indeed 19,5. Whatever the outside temperature.
If this is the case, your curve is good and there is nothing to scratch.
If it's not the case :
- either you are too hot and you can save by paying better
- or you too cold and you will consume more adjusting well
3) You have an outdoor probe. With dirk was repeatedly described how it works, regulation by external sensor.
I remain willing to help those who help first ...
2) All the same: the heating curve has no influence on your consumption if you notice that you have the programmed setpoint temperature.
The heating curve will give the regulation the temperature at which it must send the water so that the set temperature is maintained in the house. And basta.
So you put your room sensor "in the middle" (neutral position), if you have one, and you check that if you have "programmed" 19,5, it is indeed 19,5. Whatever the outside temperature.
If this is the case, your curve is good and there is nothing to scratch.
If it's not the case :
- either you are too hot and you can save by paying better
- or you too cold and you will consume more adjusting well
3) You have an outdoor probe. With dirk was repeatedly described how it works, regulation by external sensor.
0 x
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