With an installation that gurgled nicely, I had asked the installer what we could do other than add automatic drains.
He explained to me that in difficult cases he added a dose of Mir (liquid soap) in the installation ...
I haven't tried his thing, but by removing the noisiest aluminum radiator it improved the noise in general ....
A solution to my problem of micro air bubbles in the heating circulator?
Re: A solution to my problem of micro air bubbles in the heating circulator?
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Reason is the madness of the strongest. The reason for the less strong it is madness.
[Eugène Ionesco]
http://www.editions-harmattan.fr/index. ... te&no=4132
[Eugène Ionesco]
http://www.editions-harmattan.fr/index. ... te&no=4132
Re: A solution to my problem of micro air bubbles in the heating circulator?
Laundry is a trick known and used by some to correct the pH of installations ... and sometimes protect them from corrosion.
I have never tested.
I have never tested.
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- I learn econologic
- posts: 33
- Registration: 21/01/19, 09:52
- x 6
Re: A solution to my problem of micro air bubbles in the heating circulator?
Well, what is certain is that now the auto-bleeders are effective: at one point the pressure dropped after the air intake, the auto-bleeders must have taken effect.
Afterwards, I bleed the radiators without circulator at 30 °: it does not seem to me that there was still any air.
There are auto bleeders for radiator with fiber disc for radiator with 5/10 connection: unfortunately the disc must be changed every 3 years. In 5/10 or 1/8 of an inch for my cast iron radiators, there aren't many other auto drain technologies. So I will stay on manual traps.
If not, I will surely put one on the steel radiator which must have a 1/2 or 3/4 connection.
This will be a "security" in the event that one of the other two traps in the installation becomes blocked.
Afterwards, I bleed the radiators without circulator at 30 °: it does not seem to me that there was still any air.
There are auto bleeders for radiator with fiber disc for radiator with 5/10 connection: unfortunately the disc must be changed every 3 years. In 5/10 or 1/8 of an inch for my cast iron radiators, there aren't many other auto drain technologies. So I will stay on manual traps.
If not, I will surely put one on the steel radiator which must have a 1/2 or 3/4 connection.
This will be a "security" in the event that one of the other two traps in the installation becomes blocked.
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- I learn econologic
- posts: 33
- Registration: 21/01/19, 09:52
- x 6
Re: A solution to my problem of micro air bubbles in the heating circulator?
Okay, again an 80 ° bleed problem this time after accidentally introducing a little air into a radiator again .
As a result, I dismantled my "new-old" auto traps having some doubts. I have several conclusions:
- The very old traps (the original ones that I had replaced by Italian traps without BD brand) have their needle oxidized and are therefore no longer effective, that's for sure because the needle no longer moves freely, they are truly unrecoverable but were of a solid design, with a dipper arm that activated the needle when the float was lowered.
- The unbranded "new" Italians from BD are very fragile in design: no "balance" rod which actuates a needle, but a very soft rod fixed on an axis which could easily become detached. The needle can be removed with a BTR key but then that separates the whole. So why did you make it removable?
- The new one from BD which manages the purge of the boiler already seems out of order: perhaps because I had cleaned it with vinegar: vinegar deposit on the orifice of the needle. In any case, it no longer seems "sensitive" enough to effectively purge my installation in which there is dissolved air.
- I change it and there I hear the trap activate when we go up to 70 °
- After seeing the design of these "machines" I draw two conclusions:
- Better to spend 10 euros instead of 7 and have a brand trap, with a stainless steel needle and better protection against corrosion
- Better never touch it
- Vinegar to clean them is not necessarily a good idea: the old one was irreparable, it was not blocked by limestone, but downright by corrosion
- Do not play with the quality of the traps, they are essential elements to protect the boiler.
As a result, I dismantled my "new-old" auto traps having some doubts. I have several conclusions:
- The very old traps (the original ones that I had replaced by Italian traps without BD brand) have their needle oxidized and are therefore no longer effective, that's for sure because the needle no longer moves freely, they are truly unrecoverable but were of a solid design, with a dipper arm that activated the needle when the float was lowered.
- The unbranded "new" Italians from BD are very fragile in design: no "balance" rod which actuates a needle, but a very soft rod fixed on an axis which could easily become detached. The needle can be removed with a BTR key but then that separates the whole. So why did you make it removable?
- The new one from BD which manages the purge of the boiler already seems out of order: perhaps because I had cleaned it with vinegar: vinegar deposit on the orifice of the needle. In any case, it no longer seems "sensitive" enough to effectively purge my installation in which there is dissolved air.
- I change it and there I hear the trap activate when we go up to 70 °
- After seeing the design of these "machines" I draw two conclusions:
- Better to spend 10 euros instead of 7 and have a brand trap, with a stainless steel needle and better protection against corrosion
- Better never touch it
- Vinegar to clean them is not necessarily a good idea: the old one was irreparable, it was not blocked by limestone, but downright by corrosion
- Do not play with the quality of the traps, they are essential elements to protect the boiler.
0 x
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